HI. There are two areas of concern here. You will need to test each area to isolate the culprit. Use the procedures to assist with the testing of the door, and start switch.
DOOR SWITCH:
The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.
Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.
Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.
If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.
START SWITCH:
Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.
For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.
If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.
Additionally, if the door and start switch test out ok, this will lead to a failed motor. Test the motor. If it fails the test, simply replace the motor.
MOTOR TESTING PROCEDURE:
Locate your unit's motor. There will be two wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
Now check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time. You should not receive any reading on your meter from this test.
If your unit's motor fails either of these tests, you will have to replace it.
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SOURCE: My whirlpool dryer wont start.
check the door switch and also the push to start button. Timers will advance even if the unit is not on
SOURCE: my whirlpool duet dryer will not start. Power
Mine isn't stacked and I had the same problem. My husband and I just bought ours last week. I had to close the door and then press on the top of the door to hear another click and it then would start the cycle. I don't know if this is correct or not. I have searched whirlpool web site and not found mention of this. I am calling the department store we purchased ours from to see if this is normal. Hope this helps!
Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...
The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...
Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start
heatman101
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Usually answered in minutes!
can you hear the motor running if so check dryer belt if the belt is broken drum will not turn also chewck for a breaker on the dryer
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