Position of ceiling diffusers for a ducted warm air heating syste

No it cant really be fitted as the evap system uses much larger duct and also in some cases people use a different type of duct that when running a gas heater threw it it tends to melt with the heat. Your best option would be to get new ducting that way you can size it correctly so you dont have air alance issues down the track.

When any unit 1st come's on, you'll always have some cold air that's in the ducts that will blow out before you get warm air. If your duct work is uninsulated in a cold basement or crawl space then it will be even more noticeable. When the unit is heating from the Heat Pump mode, it takes a little longer for the gases to get warm enough so you'll fell heat. When it gets cold enough for the unit to switch from heat pump to the gas or electric heat source, you'll get warm air faster. If you have gas heat, some Thermostats have an anticipator setting for the gas valve. If it's set wrong it will effect the on/off cycle of the gas valve.
All duct work in non heated and a/c spaces, including inside walls,above dropped ceilings, in attics and crawl spaces, must be sealed & taped at the seams and joints and then insulated and taped.
Most new construction has solved that problem with insulated duct board, flexible insulated supply's and special tape.

If no element installed and connected, heat setting will not work.

send the model number off of the fridge,if the freezer is working fine then no air is being blown up to the fridge section,all it does is blow cold air from the freezer to the fridge section so either the door was left open and this is very common with a bottom mount freezer or the evap fan isn't blowing or on some models there's a damper inside the fridge section,the damper door opens and closes to let cold air in,when it reaches temp. the door closes,sometimes the door gets stuck in the closed position or the open position and the fridge freezes or gets warm depending on where the door is.first thing open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad evap. fan motor,next look at the ceiling and on the packages,do you see frozen water droplets,if so the door was left open and the air ducts are froze up from the warm air getting in from the door being open and mixing with the cold air freezes up the air ducts,also stick your hand onto the back inside wall of the freezer,if there's like snow or frost on the inside back wall of the freezer you could have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,timer or board depending on the model or last a bad damper,when you open the fridge door there are air ducts usually up top and in the middle you should feel cold air blowing in,this is your problem the air isn't making it into the fridge section.if the door was left open,unplug the fridge,remove the food from the freezer and with a hair dryer heat up the back inside wall of the freezer and blow the hot air into the air vent holes in the back wall to melt out the air ducts,keep heating it up until you don't see any more water dripping,you can see the water dripping through the vent holes.so let me know what you find,send the model number and we can go from there.look up near the ceiling in the fridge section on the right hand wall and you should see a tag with the model and serial numbers,send the full model number so i can see what you have in your machine.

I have the exact same problem. Started occasionally blowing cold air. Now I can't get the hot air to come through. Could it be a flapper door that open and closes depending on the tempurature setting?

Hi, can you tell me what kind of heat recovery ventilation system you have? Is it a Honeywell, Lennox, ect.? Also tell me about how you have it set up as far as the duct work you are talking about and what kind of heat pump system you plan to install. If you tie your central air heat-pump ducts into the HRV ducts, it will interfer with the air flow. If you will, please tell me what you plan on doing as far as installing what to your home? New duct work for a new central air heat-pump unit, or what, so I will have some idea on what you are doing. Thanks so much. Contact me through my user name below.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

look up furnace suppliers in buffalo, new york. cant remember the name offhand.

Did you purchase a new Ducted Ceiling Unit with the Upper Unit air conditioner? If you are replacing an older mach 3, the ducted ceiling packs are not compatible and you will need to purchase the ceiling pack as well. The ducted ceiling pack part number for the 8333 series Mach III AC is below.

1. Heat/Cool Air Distribution Box - 8330B735
2. Cool only ADB - 8330A733
3. Wall Thermostat (if needed) - 7330G3351

Hope this helps.

if you claim that your heater core is flushed properly then my bet is the temp regulator is bad.