While trying to start the WT200, two washers and a nut fell out thru the vacumm tube.. When I put them back on and tighten the nut, impeller would not turn..

try disassembling the unit again and when reassembling add some loctite to the shaft when you put the nuts back on. Let it set overnight to dry and then try running it again.

Well yes it needs a clamp :-)

put it in forward gear. Drop the lower off by releasing the bolts and nuts holding it holding the lower on. (one is hiding under the back pick up screen)- some models had a plug in the back top of the exhaust/intermediate housing hiding an allen head bolt pointing down.

Once released, put a protector in a vise and clamp the lower to the bench.

2 screws or bolts will hold the water pump cover on. (the drive shaft runs thru it) Clean the carbon and rust off the drive shaft will allow the pump housing and impeller off the lower. Retrieve the funny looking key drive which runs the pump.

Inspect the shaft, the lower unit oil for water. and find all the pieces of the water pump impeller which may have gone places they shouldn't have.- including the outlet tube from the power head. Check this by putting a tube on the end and blowing- you should hear and feel the pressure in the exhaust and tell tale hole.

Now take the model number , the old pump parts to the marina for a replacement. Do a side by side comparison at the marina so you get the right stuff. Check the inside drive of the rubber impeller and see if they are exactly the same.

NOW- put the new wear plate / gaskets and drive key on, hold in place with grease. Slide the impeller on the key and spin the drive in both directions to be sure it has the impeller and will securely turn it.

Put grease in the cup of the pump housing to prevent dry start and help seat the impeller blades. Spin the shaft as you lower the housing in the pump so the blades all face in the right direction (clockwise). Screw in the bolts. Grease up the seal the watertube goes in and the spline end of the drive shaft.

Up the hole it all goes, now you only have to spline the shifter (it hasn't moved has it?) The drive shaft and the water tube all at the same time.

Check the shifter for correct position and bolt it down

MOST OF THEM HAVE A ZERC FITTING TO GREASE THEM! IF YOU WANT TO REPLACE THEM: YOU WILL NEED A BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOL ( FROM ANY PARTS STORE)! THEN YOU USE PAINT, OR CHALK, AND MARK THE PART WHERE THE JOINT IS SCREWED ON TO THE SHAFT! THIS WILL HELP YOU COUNT THE NUMBER OF THREADS INSIDE THE BALL JOINT! THEN LOOSEN THE NUT ON THE BALL JOINT ENOUGH SO YOU CAN PLACE THE BALL JOINT TOOL BETWEEN THE JOINT AND THE MOUNT IT GOES THRU! USE A HAMMER TO KNOCK IT LOOSE! ONCE IT IS LOOSE, REMOVE THE NUT, AND WASHER, AND PULL THE BOLT SIDE OF THE JOINT OUT OF THE MOUNT! NOW THE FUN! AS YOU REMOVE THE BALL JOINT FROM THE SHAFT, YOU'LL HAVE TO LOOSEN THE NUT HOLDING THE BALL JOINT! THEN REMOVE THE JOINT FROM THE SHAFT! WHERE THE PAINT STOPS IS WHERE YOU START COUNTING THE THREADS THAT WERE INSIDE THE BALL JOINT! PLACE THE NEW JOINT ON THE SHAFT, AND SCREW IT BACK TO THAT POINT! TIGHTEN THE NUT, PUT THE BOLT SIDE BACK INTO THE MOUNT, AND PLACE THE WASHER, AND NUT BACK ON IT! THEN TIGHTEN IT DOWN, AND YOUR DONE!

I had the same problem. I bought this scooter for my daughter at a flea market and the rear axle was gone, someone had tried to fix it with a bolt, but it was very unstable. Here is what I did and it has seemed to work well. This will cost you less that 10.00 at your nearest home improvement store.
You will need
1x - 5/16 x 8 hex bolt 1x - 5/16 nut 4x - 5/16 x 1 1/4 flat washers 2x - 1 1/4 hard rubber stoppers 1x - 3/8 drill bit & drill 1x - gorilla glue or lock tight
Ok... before we start let me tell you what all this is for and how it works. The way I assembled this was, hex bolt, 1 washer, wheel for scooter, 1 washer, 1 rubber stopper (Insert this into the metal tube on the back of the scooter, so that on the other side you will just have a bolt sticking thru) now, 1x rubber stopper, 1x washer, other scooter wheel, 1x washer, hex nut.
The rubber stoppers are the hardest part and the reason for them is to keep the bolt going thru the middle of the axle tube. This will help to eliminate the scooter from wobbling.
Now, if you have read this far here is how we did it in order.
1. Take both rubber stoppers and trim them with a kitchen knife so that they will fit into the metal tube on the back of the scooter securely. (do not push them all the way in yet)
2. Drill a hole thru the middle of both trimmed rubber stoppers with the drill and bit
3. Take your hex bolt and slide a washer on
4. Slide your 1st wheel on
5. Slide on a 2nd washer
6. push on the trimmed rubber stopper to where it meets the washer. (The wheel should be able to still spin pretty freely, If you think it is to tight just pull the rubber stopper up a bit)
7. Take this assembly and push it into one side of the metal tube on the back of the scooter (you want the rubber stopper to be and flush with the edge of the metal tube and you can)
8. Your hex bolt will be stick out of the other end of the tube, slide on the last rubber stopper try and work it into the tube as best you can.
9. slide on 3rd washer
10. Slide on last wheel
*At this point I put the scooter on its side and pushed down on the wheel to force the stopper into the tube
11. slide on 4th washer
12. screw on nut
*Now I found that if you put the nut on to tight the wheels would not turn, but if you left it loose it would fall off.
13. To fix the above issue we put some gorilla glue on the bolt threads and screwed the nut on, we would spin the back wheels until we were happy with the amount of tension on the wheel. We then put some more glue on the top of the nut to help hold it in place.
14. Let the glue dry
Thats how I fixed my daughters scooter. I am in NO WAY a professional or expert at this stuff. Just a dad trying to make his baby happy. Hope this works for you!

On the side of the saw where the bar (what the chain goes around/rides on) where it connects to the saw there are a couple nuts. Loosen them up, push the bar back towards the saw to put slack in the chain, wrap the chair around the bar making sure the bottom of the chain is in the groove on the bar and tip of the bar, then push the bar forwards away from the saw to take out the slack in the chain. Hold it tight and tighten up the two nuts. Depending on your model of pole saw, you may have only one nut and a plastic guide that keeps it straight. Same concept though. Loosen the nut, push bar in, put chain on, pull bar out, tighten nut.
If you've ever done it on a bicycle, it's the same concept. Loosen nuts on back wheel, push tire forwards and chain gets loose. Pull it backwards and chain gets tight.

You need to reseal the connection. You have to turn the water source to frig of at the tap valve. You then have to loosen the connector for the frig the one that has the vinyl line running thru it. You will get some water out because water from the tap and vinyl line might be under a little pressure. Remove the nut and the vinyl tubing. See if it has a little ring over the tubing. If not slide the nut farther back on the tubing and cut tubing below the nut. reattach the nut to the blue valve, but don't over tighten the nut make it finger tight. open the tap valve slowly. The tubing will get pressure. Look at the connection that you just fastened to see if it is leaking. If it is tighten the nut a little more. This should stop the leak(do not over tighten the nut as this will cause the tubing to leak again. If there are no leaks you can open the tap valve all of the way.

for the most if you want to clean it it will take you a while, depending on your model, disconect the unit from the power outlet first,from the back panel remove about 6- to 8 screws an then you will see the inside back panel expose to be vacumm, you'll see the back panel of the shoot that runs behind the dryer, take the i think 4-5 screws an vacumm it, i dont think is going to hurt your machine if a little fell in there, a quick way is try to remove the exhaust tube off the back an insert the vacumm cleaner, to clean the tube going out of the house you can use a strong shopvac, to **** it in or a leaf blower to push it out ...........good luck!

Yep. Remove that tube from the valve, then pull that nut off of it. Now cut the tube back an inch or so put the nut back on (with about 1/2" of tubing sticking through it), put it back on the valve and tighten it good and tight. 

SG

Yes, I think that rubber tube measures water level. But I've never changed one. Good luck.