Dometic RM2510 will not run on 110v AC. Heating element tests good. 1.4 volts on the lines leading to the heating element--should be 110v AC. Works fine on propane.

This is a theoretical discussion only concerning Intex Error Code 95. "Water Too Hot" issue when it is not! My tub was still under warranty when it failed after 10 months of lite use. Intex sent me a new base but this is how I might have effected repairs on the old base.

One could bypass the normal digitally controlled heating process in favor of an analog process.

1. You would need to add a relay that is normally open to the recirculation pump leads. The type of relay depends on the voltage supplied to the recirculation pump motor. My motor appears to run on 12 volt AC so a 12 volt relay would be in order. Coil lines run to the pump power leads while the N/O circuit is wired to another, second, 120V AC 10 Amp dpst or dpdt relay. This relay ensures that the heating element only receives power when the recirculation pump is energized and that the heating element lines are isolated when not in use. Otherwise, the heating element could turn on and either boil the water or worse.

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Unplug hydro plug to fridge. Remove cover on circuit board. Follow wires from heating element, to terminals on circuit board. ( probably J7 and J8 ) . With an AC volt meter or multimeter set to AC voltage, turn fridge on hydro, and leave door open on fridge so that it calls for cooling. To be sure it's calling for cool, try gas first, when it's starts, you know it's calling for cool, then switch to AC operation. Now test for voltage at the 2 terminals that the heating element were/are attached to. If you get 100-120 VAC, then replace the heating element. If not get back to me and I'll walk you through a couple more tests.

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC


If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

12 volt is not enough power to run a fridge.

If all controls seem to work normally, except that no heat is produced (and is an all electric unit--not gas), then likely the heating element is burnt out (has a break in the wire that heats up and glows, like in your toaster--though the heating wire can sometimes be within a covering metal like your electric range burner, and the break not visable). This is a commonly replaced part; it can be tested for continuity (no break in the wire) with a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter--$2 w coupon at harbor freight this week I noticed) where you set to ohm-resistance (to arrow with + sign if shown and will beep when probes are touching to show a complete circuit) (number would be the same as probes touching, but since resistance wire [to make the heat], there will be some number but not close to that of leads just held not touching anything) or the piece of wire, flashlight bulb, and flashlight battery test (casing of bulb to end of element, battery to end of bulb, piece of wire to other end of battery and on to other end of heating element), where if bulb lights then no break in element (though occasionally wire break can be disconnecting only when large dryer current is applied).
Of course unplugged when do all this testing.
The dryer "working" as it is, is using 110 volts (the controls and the motor) and is separate from the heating circuit which is using both 110 volt sides of the outlet, to equal 220 volts.
Of course, you should check that the connections are solid, and if you have the VOM, you could even use the VOM set to 600v AC to check that the outlet is delivering 110v on both sides of the plug and 220v between the two hot leads (usually black and red, with white the neutral which eventuall connects to ground--if a 4th lead, it is the cabinet ground--usually green or bare).
... and make sure when looking in the cabinet, that there is no build up of lint which can cause the overheating and heating element failure in the first place.

Need to R&R the A/C heating element. Costs about $20.00

hi! there, as you mention since source was 115 voltwas initialized and thermostat detected was functioning but heater won't fire, check if there's incoming source on your heating element using multitester on voltmeter set up,if there's source 115 volt,check your heating element resistance be sure to switch off your ac before checking resistance of your heater (your tester may damage upon testing resistance when ac source was on takenote),set your tester to ohmmeter R10 test rod at both end on terminal take reading if no deflection,you have busted heating element,replaced heating element,If there's relay holding supply on heating element on circcuit board try to check it out.if source 115 volt is acquired,also check the resistance coil of relay,iif defective replaced one...have a nice they.