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Tighten seat nuts, they are underneath, you will have pop open the tabs covering seat screw to hold it. If the toilet was level before tile saws installed call tilers back. The closet bolts may have come loose or closet flange is broken.
We just recently installed two of these and they work perfectly.
LESSONS LEARNED:
-This is a almost complete in box and needs to only install the tank and seat. It also came with a new wax ring and bolts.
-What you also need is Full ring flange repair kit, (this is a round metal ring that goes over the existing plastic flange on the floor), put in as many screws as you can. On both we broke the plastic flange while installing the bolts. also the second one we also added a washer on the back side of the metal flange repair ring this made the connection even stronger.
-The new bolts that hold the toilet to the floor will be to long and an need to be cut off. Don't just try to brake it off, we ran in to big trouble and is how we broke the flange.
-Lastly go ahead and use Tub sealant and put a bead around the floor and base of toilet, this will keep it more secure and not allow any fluids to seep under the toilet and start smelling.
Things needed; set of johnnie bolts, wax ring, water supply tube, open end wrenches.
insert the flat head of the johnnie bolts into the groove of the floor flange so the threads are pointed straight up. Install the wax ring directly onto the floor flange. Set your toilet bowl down on top of the wax ring so the johnnie bolts stick up through the holes at the bottom. Install the washers and nut to secure the toilet to the floor. Depending on the type of toilet, you may or may not need to manually install the tank to bowl gasket and tank to bowl bolts. Set tank onto bowl and tighten the bolts. Usually a 1/2" wrench. Do not over tighten because the porcelain will break. Install the water supply to the bottom of the tank and then tighten it to the water shutoff valve. Install the seat, and your all set.
Lift your toilet off again and replace the wax ring check the bottom of the toilet for cracks and make sure it is clean. Then install the toilet make sure to tighten flange bolts evenly DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. Try that to start with.
Turn off the water at the supply (under the toilet, usually).Flush the tank to remove all water from the tank.Disconnect the supply from the tank.Remove bolt caps or bolt covers from where the toilet bolts to the bathroom floor.Remove bolts from the floor flange. When you lift the toilet up, you'll see a metal or plastic flange. If the toilet has been there for a long time the bolts may not pull out of the flange easily. In this case you may have to use a small hacksaw to cut the bolt below the nut.Put newspaper or an old towel on the floor so you can place the old toilet on it. Lift the toilet off the flange.Take the new bowl (assuming this is a two-piece toilet) and turn it upside down. Position the wax ring on the horn of the outlet. Install new solid brass flange bolts, mount them and position them on the centerline on either side of the outlet.Push the bowl down over the bolts and seal the outlet. The wax will squeeze down and seal.Put the new bolts, washers and bolt caps on. You may have to trim the bolt with a hacksaw.Once the bolts are secure, mount the tank.Make sure the gasket between the tank and toilet is in place. Then position the tank on the bowl. Run bolts through the tank and secure. Don't over tighten (the tank can crack).Hook up the water supply line.Connect the supply to the line on the bottom of the tank.Turn on the water.Let the tank fill.Flush once or twice to make sure the water control is properly adjusted.Put the tank lid on.Enjoy. ford performance chip.
Mark, Assuming the bowl is not broken you will need to pull the toilet by removing the nuts on the bolts on either side of the bowl. Once the bowl is removed re,move the existing wax ring and discard it. Check the flange to see if it has been broken. If it has you may be able to use a spanner flange to repair it. If it not and the whole flange needs replacing I advise you contact a plumber as it may require a bit more knowledge and tools to correct the issue than you may have at your disposal. If all is well than you may only need to buy a new wax ring to replace the old one. I would buy two in case an issue occurs with one you will have a spare at your disposal. If the toilet rocked or tilted before you should grout the area beneath it before resetting the toilet. Once you reset the toilet and tightened the bolts all that is left is grouting the edge of the bowl where it meets the floor. I hope this assists you and thanks for using Fix Ya.
We just recently installed two of these and love them.
LESSONS LEARNED:
This is a almost complete in box and needs to only install the tank and seat. It also came with a new wax ring and bolts.
What you also need is also at home depot they have the better flange repair kit, this is a round metal ring that goes over the existing plastic flange on the floor, put in as many screws as you can. On both we broke the plastic flange while installing the bolts. also the second one we also added a washer on the back side of the metal flange repair ring this made the connection even stronger.
The new bolts that hold the toilet to the floor will be to long and an need to be cut off. Don't just try to brake it off, we ran in to big trouble and is how we broke the flange.
Lastly go ahead and use Tub sealant and put a bead around the floor and base of toilet, this will keep it more secure and not allow any fluids to seep under the toilet and start smelling.
Not a hard fix, There is a repair kit.
Don't get the Half Flange repair kit... Get the Complete hole metal flange repair kit, install and also replace the wax ring and your back in business.
Hacked off the old seat? You mean the closet flange that connects to the sewer pipe? That's the part that has the bolts. They go up through the toilet base.
If you have just a straight sewer pipe now, you can connect a new closet flange to it.
1.Hardware stores sell a rubber sleeve. This sleeve fits over the cast iron, or copper, or plastic PVC pipe, and the new closet flange has a stem that fits down in the sleeve. There are two large hose clamps, that come with this rubber sleeve.
The rubber sleeve is an adapter. It adapts the 4 inch sewer pipe, down to the 3 inch stem on the closet flange. (Toilets are known as a 'Water Closet', hence the flange that the toilet bolts to, is a 'Closet Flange')
Whatever size of rubber sleeve you need to adapt two pipes together, they have it. The new closet flange is made of PVC plastic. (Poly Vinyl Chloride) The flange itself is about 1/2 inch thick, and has provisions for bolts. (Use Toilet Bolts, and nuts) Be sure the closet flange sits flush to the floor. The 1/2 inch thick rim of the flange, sits on top of the floor. The flange is then screwed to the floor with countersink head screws. The slots allow the bolts to just slip in.
IF, the flange Does Not sit level on the floor, and the area for the toilet base is not level, you need to make a flat, level surface! Do Not half step this, or you'll have a toilet leak from now until the time you fix the floor!
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It's not terribly complicated, assuming that by "install a new toilet" you mean where there was alredy an existing toilet.
First, remove the old toilet. Shut off the water supply valve, and flush the toilet. Then use a spone to get rid of the water that remains in the tank.
Remove the nuts on the two bolts at the base of the toilet where the toilet meets the floor. These are usually hidden under two plastic caps. Now gently rock the toilet until it comes away from the floor. Get help to carry it out. Clean up the old wax that's around the flange where the pipe disappears into the floor. Don't be a wuss, it's only wax.
Now you'll need the new toilet, a new supply line, new mounting bolts (don't reuse the old ones) and a two wax rings. Yes, I said two wax rings. You'll see why in a minute.
Assemble the new toilet according to the instructions provided. Now here's a warning: Do NOT overtighten the bolts the hod the tank to the bowl. You're dealing with ceramics here, don't break them.
Now, put the new hold-down bolts in place on the flange. Read the insturctions that came with the toilet, but you have to do this NOW.
Now you'll need a helper. With the toilet upsided down, unwrap a wax ring. Make sure it's room temprature or it won't seal. Press the wax ring around the outlet flange on the base of the toilet.
Now you and your helper carefully turn the toilet over without crushing the wax ring. Lift the toilet and slowly lowe it so the wax ring is centered over the "flange" which is where the sewer pipe goes into the foor. Then press the toilet firmly in place.
Now if you're like most people, you screwed up here and crushed the wax ring without being centered on the flange. That's why I told you to buy two. Now you know what not to do, scrape off the first one and start again.
When you've got the toilet sealed on the flange, connect and tighten the nuts on the bolts. Now you may have to use a hacksaw to cut off the remaining ends of the bolts so you can get the neat little plastic caps to fit.
Now connect the water supply line. Now's where you start praying. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. Check the supply line for leaks. Fix as necessary.
Now flush. Is water running out from around the base of the toilet? No? Good, you got a good seal. Yes? Very bad. Time to go back to the home center for yet another wax ring. Repeat the sealing process and get a good seal this time.
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