SOURCE: Lost set up disc
go to the website of the company and just simply type the model no. u will get all the details and u can download a cd content too.....
SOURCE: Altec Lansing ada745 fuse
Yes, it's a 1A 250V glass fuse, 0.75" (1.9cm) long. The only other number on the fuse is "239", if that means anything. You take it out by putting a flat screwdriver in the slot on the fuse holder cap, turn counter-clockwise, and pull out once it releases.
SOURCE: What's the volt & amps of Altec Lansing AVS300 2.1 speaker system
Your adapter is Part No. AVX300-A6859, Model No. 9701-00748-IUND.
Or You could get a universal that is rated for output of 18volt DC, 650ma, Center Positive.
I have used a 15volt DC, 900 ma with no problem, but I never run the volume high.
Good Luck
SOURCE: I have Altec Lansing AVS 300 multimedia speakers with no power
Unfortunately the subwoofer supplies the power to the amp on the speakers, Once again I have the solution,
These speakers are factory molded so that the only way to open them is to break the factory seal
this can be done by sharply rapping the seam at the bottom of the speaker with a heavy screwdriver handle or something similar.
Now you need to supply power to the amp...If you do not have the subwoofer you will need a 4.5volt power supply, after removing the board from the casing find the red white and black wires connecting
the orange plug wire to it, Personally I removed the entire cord from the unit, shough you can splice in at this point if you desire.
Connect the white lead to your posative on your power supply by either splicing or soldering, connect the ground to the heat sink using the screw that is already there holding the chip to the sink. reassemble the speaker.....super glue... and you are now in business.
Ed Meyer
Owner AACS
www.alwaysaffordablesolutions.com
SOURCE: output board for Altec Lansing ADA995
I've managed to fix the amp in the ADA995 when I blew the rear channel amp. There is a design fault with the voltage regulator that causes it to run very hot, which frys the plastic housing glued near it, which corrodes the circuit board trace.
Getting the sub/amp apart is a *****. But doable. You need to not only remove the screws in the back under the flat grills, but ALSO 3 screws behind the top speaker that also hold the amp in place. And getting the power supply out is another rather difficult procedure, which is needed if you want to run the amp on the bench to troubleshoot.
The amp chips are available, though no NTE equivalent, and replaceable.
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