I have a mini fridge and during my move this little coil thing in the back got cut and and it now makes a hissing sound whenever I plug the refrigerator in to the electricity. Anyone know if it would be worth fixing? Or better to just replace the fridge all together? Also if it is worth fixing how would I got about doing it?

What type of fridge is it? Side by side or freezer top mount. Meaning freezer on top and fridge on bottom. On both those styles of fridges. The drain hole for the water to run out during the defrost cycle is behind the back panel. And then under the coil at about the center of the coil in a top mount. In a side by side it will be a little bit off center of the coil on the inside back wall. If it's not frozen over its easy to see there is a drain hole there. The thing I keep referring to as the coils is that aluminum tubing going thru the flat plates & it will have a defrost heater or heating element at the bottom. if that coil is frozen solid then that is the reason your fridge side isn't getting cold. It's not defrosting. Depending on the brand it could be a defrost heater, sensor, or timer issue. Best way to thaw a coil is with boiling hot water , pour it in the coil. Only thing is doing it that way will over fill your drain pan and makes a mess. So if you have a hair dryer or the very best thing I think to use. A hand steamer. They make steamers for clothes or for cleaning. Both will work. But I prefer the steamer for cleaning. It comes with a bunch of different tips & an extension hose. Works great for thawing and cleaning the drain hole too.

Hope that helps you and anyone else a little but. I tend to write too much in my answers but I was always told more is a good thing with most everything.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

Sorry but I don't recognise the fridge brand. The internet suggests these are not the things called mini fridges but in reality are merely coolers so I guess it is a regular fridge designed to keep stuff between 2 and five degrees C.

Not sure what you mean by 6 os.

Conventional fridge design has a thing at the back that looks like a radiator. This condenser is prone to corrosion and is easily damaged resulting in the loss of refrigerant. Since it was decided all types of refrigerant gas is damaging to our atmosphere, manufacturers have been increasingly burying the radiator thing in the fridge casing where it is protected, often at the sides. Usually the condenser will become quite hot until the fridge interior is down to the required temperature when just maintaining the inside temperature it will vary between warm and cold if the door isn't opened much and the insulation and door seal is in good condition.

Burying the condenser(s) in the casing makes them less efficient at losing heat and so they will become hotter than the conventional old-fashioned design during the interior cooling stage..

I hope this helps and little.

Good afternoon Bob.

Wine coolers have a lot in common with mini-refrigerators. The cooling for the wine, to proper 'cellar' temperatures is done gently (one hopes) with circulating cool air that should keep the temperature stable, and the dust to a minimum.

The fan you hear is most likely one keeping the refrigerant compressor cooled off. Depending on how your unit is packaged, what you'll likely want to do is

1. Unplug the unit. No pokey pokey into the guts of things plugged into the wall. Always err on the side of safe. Aside from shock rick, the small fans in fridges can actually cut fingers up pretty good if you let em.
2. Look to the rear lower section of the unit and find the compressor(s) and associated fans and perhaps cooling coils. Much like with regular fridges, use a brush or a vacuum attachment to clear any dust bunnies or other debris off of the coils, compressors, and fans.
3. Examine the fans. See if anything may have been sucked up into the blades or spindle - giant cobwebs, bits of thread of carpet fiber. See if the blade will spin freely, and whether it feels loose. If it won't move, or is obstructed, try to clear it and clean off any debris or fiber. If it will not move, the fan may have failed. You don't want to run a fridge this way, as the next thing to go after the cooling fan for the compressor is the compressor. At which point most honest techs will say 'buy a new fridge, I can't replace it for less than the fridge will cost you.
4. You can also see if there is anything else obviously loose near the compressor or fan. There's a significant power surge needed to start the compressor, and the initial slow cycling may be making things shudder.

Hoping this is useful. Good Luck!

Okay kevin, the first thing is to make sure there is no vacuum leak, start the car and look and listen around for a hissing sound.if no leak is found then we will move on to the next test which would be a compression test, this test will tell you if the cylinder has compression and will help with the next step. seeing that you replaced the plugs wires and coil pack, if you have good compression then the injector would be the next step. check the connector on injector, if all looks good then the next step would be to swap injectors from that # 2 cylinder with #4 and then drive the car and if light comes back have it scanned and see if the misfire moved to cylinder #4. if it did move then you will be sure it is the injector. do compression test first , test all cylinders, make sure to have all plugs out and unplug coil pack connector when doing compression test. write me back with the results. good day

Hello,

From what you are saying the evaporator got punctured. The hissing was the freon coming out of the unit. The unit will not cool even if it was plugged in.

Your fridge is fine it was in defrost mode during this an element heats up to melt any frost and ice in the freezer. But yes the hissing sound does sound alarming but is perfectly normal. hope you have a nice day

Most likely the vibration of the move has caused:

- your defroster timer has failed or is stuck
- your defroster heater element has failed.

On most fridges, there is a little timer knob, which is the defroster timer, located at the bottom front behind the front kick panel.

If you rotate the timer by hand, you should hear a click. This should turn off the compressor and turn on the defroster heater. The heater should make some hissing/scorching sounds, plus the sound of water draining out.

The timer, if functional, should then turn the defroster off, and turn the fridge back on after a half-hour or so.

Since this part is typically on the bottom of the unit, maybe the part or it's wiring got broken by the mover with the fridge dolly. Or else the vibration of the move broke the heater element or caused a wire connection to come loose.

the unit should have heat coming off the condenser coils on the back. some of the units have a little fan motor to help cool the condenser. make sure there is plenty of space for air flow around the unit, as this is crucial to normal operation.

Check first where the sound is the loudest. IT could be under the hood at the pulley or the drive belt that is causing this or the fan under the dashboard that may be causing this. If it is like a gas sound or hissing sound it could be the expansion valves also found under the hood which is normal but excess noise may be reason to have it checked.

This is normal operation, every 8 to 10 hours the heater in your freezer section turns on to defrost ice and frost from evaporator coil, this melting water hitting the heater is what is making popping and hissing noises.