KitchenAid KGRT607 - Oven won't light reliably, can smell gas.
I have a KitchenAid gas range, model number KGRT607. The oven ignites intermittently, and often just sits there with the ignitor glowing, but the gas doesn't light. The gas is flowing - can smell it - but nothing happens. I've noticed that if I open the door when I can see the ignitor start to glow, the gas often lights right away. If left to its own devices with the door closed, the oven just sits there and I have to turn it off and open all the windows.
1. Removed the racks from the oven. 2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out). 3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down. 4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms. 5. Shut the power off to the oven. 6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back. 7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust). 8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled). 9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven. 10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better. 11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven. 12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/p...
Just fixed it. Here's what I did:
1. Removed the racks from the oven. 2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out). 3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down. 4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms. 5. Shut the power off to the oven. 6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back. 7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust). 8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled). 9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven. 10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better. 11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven. 12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Installation%20Instructions%20-%209755235.pdf
1. Removed the racks from the oven. 2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out). 3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down. 4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms. 5. Shut the power off to the oven. 6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back. 7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust). 8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled). 9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven. 10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better. 11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven. 12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
I fixed it last night--
Here's what I did:
1. Removed the racks from the oven. 2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out). 3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down. 4.
Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas
took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out
perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and
closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I
just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to
smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened
some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms. 5. Shut the power off to the oven. 6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back. 7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust). 8.
Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the
burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled). 9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven. 10.
Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve
and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the
oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner
tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to
lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better. 11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven. 12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then
I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and
then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame
cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and
the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan
and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
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replace the oven safety sensor located in the upper left corner of the oven cavity,its merely a thermocouple and cycles the temp in the oven and is easily replaceable,its a whirlpool part # AP3083985 available from most appliance parts stores that handle whirlpool parts,as this unit is produced by whirlpool corp. for kitchenaid corp.
The ignitor for the oven could be going bad and causing the oven valve to open intermittently. I see this often. Or the oven valve could be going bad... but the usual suspect is the ignitor.
Tom
Just had same problem it was nice it waited until christmas dinner, all i did to resolve the problem was switch the upper broiler igniter with the lower one for the oven. I tuned on the oven & it fired right up i never use the broiler on my oven so itll buy me some time. So if you can get the broiler to light try that but i did have the same low temp. & the smell of gas. Good Luck
Had same problem come up on christmas cold turkey yuk! What i did was swap the upper igniter for the broiler with the lower igniter for the oven and it worked so it sounds like the problem is the igniter you can do what i did to buy some time or just swap out the igniter with a new one. Good Luck
This sounds like a weak igniter, it would have to be a gas oven and the symptoms usually are: takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully, eventually won't heat at all. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.
The igniter needs to draw between 3.6 and 4 amps to open the gas valve even thogh it is glowing the resistance may not be the same . Check the amperage and then replace igniter
It is likely that the ignitor needs to be replaced. If the range does not sense the proper amount of resistance in the ignitor, it will not turn on the gas valve for the lower burner. If the broiler is still working, it would further this thinking, as it has a separate ignitor.
F7-E1 - Common Switch Wire Is Defective - This error occurs when common wire to latch switch and door switch is shorted. Check all connections at control board and at the latch switch and door switch. If connections are ok, then check individual switches as outlined for the F5 error code.
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Zanes, Your oven igniter is getting weak. The glowing bar next to the manifold must draw between 2.7 and 3.3 amps before the safety valve will acknowledge that it's actually hot enough to ignite gas and open up. Your igniter is most likely right at ~2.5 amps and the valve is "wanting" to open, but won't without some persuasion (hammer anyone?).
The part number for your igniter is 9753108 and is available. Your local appliance parts house may not carry it, but there is a substitute that they WILL carry. Its' part number is WB2x9998. It's a universal flat igniter. Unplug the oven before repairing it, OK?
Just fixed it. Here's what I did:
1. Removed the racks from the oven.
2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out).
3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down.
4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms.
5. Shut the power off to the oven.
6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back.
7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust).
8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled).
9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven.
10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better.
11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven.
12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF:
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/p...
I fixed it last night--
Here's what I did:
1. Removed the racks from the oven.
2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out).
3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down.
4.
Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas
took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out
perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and
closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I
just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to
smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened
some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms.
5. Shut the power off to the oven.
6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back.
7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust).
8.
Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the
burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled).
9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven.
10.
Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve
and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the
oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner
tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to
lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better.
11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven.
12. Turned the power back on to the oven.
Then
I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and
then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame
cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and
the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan
and racks when it cools back down.
My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.
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