KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


That is probably the SAbb code; the Sabbath mode has been set. This mode allows you to heat a meal while fulfilling the "no work" requirement for strict observance of the Sabbath. The oven will stay at the programmed temperature until you change the temperature or end the Sabbath mode. To end the Sabbath mode, open the oven door and press and hold 6 for 5+ seconds. Then close the oven door.

Searching Kitchenaid's support site, https://www.kitchenaid.com/service-and-support/manuals.html , I found the manual for the KESC307 ranges here: https://www.kitchenaid.com/content/kitchenaid/en_us/searchresult.html?term=KESC307&tab=clp&plp=&plpView=grid&clp=kesc307 . The direct link to the manual is https://www.kitchenaid.com/content/dam/global/documents/200308/owners-manual-9754287-RevC.pdf . See page 18-19 for the information on the Sabbath mode. You can completely disable the option on the range by following the steps in the manual.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

KitchenAid... | Answered on Aug 26, 2020


This is a recurring problem with certain KitchenAid ranges. I have a 15 year old dual fuel 36" range and have replaced the temp sensor twice, and now it has gone out again. $8,000 piece of junk the oven has been used. RARELY in 15 years.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 21, 2020


hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

KitchenAid... | Answered on Mar 15, 2020


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



KitchenAid... | Answered on Mar 15, 2020


I plugged in the probe and stuck it into a pyrex measuring cup of water, set the probe temp to 165, set the convection (or bake) oven to 500, and turned it on. This allowed it to run for about 20 minutes, and cleaned out the probe jack. Works fine now.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 26, 2020


Try unplugging for 15 minutes. Then plug back in. That may reset the board. If not, control Board is bad

KitchenAid... | Answered on Dec 10, 2019


replace the oven safety sensor located in the upper left corner of the oven cavity,its merely a thermocouple and cycles the temp in the oven and is easily replaceable,its a whirlpool part # AP3083985 available from most appliance parts stores that handle whirlpool parts,as this unit is produced by whirlpool corp. for kitchenaid corp.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Nov 26, 2019


You manual will tell you this:  open the oven door.  Push broil.  The indicator in the panel will change to F.  You're done.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Nov 26, 2019


I didn't see an operator manual using https://www.google.com

There were several diagrams and parts lists.

An installation manual and a toll free number to call for support is at the link below:

https://www.partselect.com/Models/KESH307HBS4/

KitchenAid... | Answered on Oct 04, 2019


Have you unplugged the appliance I reset it see if that clears it

KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 15, 2019


Same here. I am in trouble like that. Need to find a solution!

Best,
http://giaydankinhgiahuy.com/

KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 07, 2019

Tip

Troubleshooting KitchenAid oven, range and microwave error codes


Here list of Kitchen Aid range and oven codes.
4 Digit Failure Codes
F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error
F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error
F1 - E2 UL A/D error
F1 - E4 Model ID error
F1 - E5 Calibration shifted
F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error
F1 - E9 Stack overflow
F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value
F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad
F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error
F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open
F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open
F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models)
F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode)
F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode)
F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models)
F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open
F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted
F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted
F5 - E0 Door Switch
F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock
F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error
F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes.
F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked
F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock
F6 - E0 Return line not connected
F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure
F1 ERC Board failure
F2 Oven temperature is too high
F3 Oven temperature sensor open
F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted
F5 ERC Board failure
F7 Function key stuck on ERC
F8 ERC Board failure
F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code:
1. Disconnect power for about two minutes.
2. Connect back power.
3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.

on Aug 07, 2019 | Kitchen Ranges


Good Morning, An E1-f2 E1F2 error indicates a faulty touchpad. Fixyourboard.com offers replacement Ledgestone Technologies touchpads for Kitchenaid oven models. Reach out to them for more information 512-355-1108 or [email protected]
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KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 19, 2019


F2 E1 is an error code that says the membrane (touch pad assembly) is not connecting to the ERC(Electronic Range Control). Call the warrantee company and give them the model number and serial number of your range and ask them if it still has a parts warrantee on the electronics. If it does, they will have to send their technician out to replace the part or parts and charge you for the labor. Your model may have the membrane and Erc all in one part, so an easy diagnosis, if it is seperate you need to make sure the membrane ribbon connector is plugged tightly into the Erc, plug your range back in, press cancel, and then retest. If it still fails then replace the membrane, test and if it fails again, replace the Erc. Before you tear into this make sure you unplug the unit for 30 minutes, plug it back in and test. Sometimes this will reset the Erc and solve your problem. If it doesn't the make sure you unplug the range before doing any repair work. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jun 19, 2019


the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works pretty well to clean the glass without scratching the glass...the glass is pretty durable and not that easy to scratch..in addation to servicing them i have a glass stove in my house and use the Magic Eraser with pretty good results

KitchenAid... | Answered on May 29, 2019


REPLACE THE BAKE IGNITER !!! ( its the part that glows when you turn oven on to bake). PLEASE RATE THIS !

KitchenAid... | Answered on May 28, 2019

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