20 Most Recent KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

I plugged in the probe and stuck it into a pyrex measuring cup of water, set the probe temp to 165, set the convection (or bake) oven to 500, and turned it on. This allowed it to run for about 20 minutes, and cleaned out the probe jack. Works fine now.

hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....

You manual will tell you this:  open the oven door.  Push broil.  The indicator in the panel will change to F.  You're done.

After calling customer service with no satisfaction, I did a Google search for SA66 which turned out to be really SAbb code. I found out that this is a special "Jewish Mode" that I somehow turned on while pushing the touch pad disabling it. To end the "Sabbath Mode", Press CANCEL/OFF FOR ONE SECOND, then press and hold Number Pad 6 for five seconds. It worked!

(You can also press and hold the Number Pad 6 for five seconds first, followed by CANCEL/OFF.)

the control lock shows up on my stove how do i get it off.

Had to remove the screws on the BOTTOM of the outside door, then panel came off after all the screws (inside oven door included) were off...
Reversed the order to put back on.. Cleaned (all) three glass pieces nicely... Now after reading the problems with the self cleaning part (doors getting stuck!) - I'm afraid to try mine!

Breaker has burnt up electrical box has burnt leg or bad plug in

ran the SCC and the oven door unlocked when completed but the touchpad did not. Can;t use over at all, top of stove works fine. None of the bottons for the oven works. still says self clean completed, will not go away, can't use oven at all.

Tech sheet doesn't say much says noise interference at keypad says press cancel button and remove electronic noise interference if code returns replace key pad assembly not a common code if you chose to replace the keypad make sure it comes with instructions have changed two has to be programmed

Go to the electrical department of your local home repair store and buy an electrical circuit tester. They look like a plug and have three lights on them some have the three lights and a small button to test gfci circuits. plug it into the 110 outlet and check if it is wired correctly. If this is a 220 circuit disregard and give me more information

Ghosts.... Okay, at this point some trouble shooting is needed. Unless you have a multi-meter and know how to use it you need a professional. Surges in thesource may cause this as well as poor grounds in the builings electrical sysytem.