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Robert Malloy Posted on Aug 21, 2017

Open and close degrees on a silver king SKF72D part #33338 defrost thermostat

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raj somaiya

  • 5370 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2011

SOURCE: have kenmore 253.54622402 side by side--from the

" waited 1 hour freezer 20 degrees // cold food side 45 degrees and no air flowing from damper " As per this it indicates that the ventilations are getting blocked after few hours.First the air was flowing from damper but after one hour it stopped flowing air from damper.Check the damper if there is too much water collected in the damper then press the damper and remove the water collected in it.------------ The working procedure of this Kenmore side by side refrigerator is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fresh food section gets cold. The air from freezer to fridge passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the main defrost board of the unit. Now if the damper is not got blocked with too much water or if the ice is not got collected on the damper area then check the evaporator coils. If there is too much ice got collected on the coils, then takes a hair dryer and melt the collected ice. Then see if the problem returns again. But if there is little bit ice collected on the coils and fan is running properly then it's not a problem. In that case main board is faulty and it has to be replaced. The main defrost board is working but its not controlling the functions as required so the freezer thaws after few hours.

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You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

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To test defrost thermostat you can test this way:---

The defrost thermostat is difficult to test since many refrigerators use different fixed temperature settings and unless you have a very accurate temperature test device the test will not provide proper results. Now you can take the defrost thermostat out of the unit and place the element only in a glass of ice water. When the element is cold it should have continunity between the two wires.------ The meter should not show a reading if the thermostat is turned off. If a reading appears, replace the thermostat.

When the thermostat is turned on, the meter should indicate "0" ohm or .3 or .2 on a digital readout. If it does not appear as "0" ohm or .3 or .2, replace thermostat.Turn the thermostat on and place each probe on either side of the thermostat so meter reads "0" ohm or .2 ohm digital. Put water and some ice in the cup. Temperature should be 32 degrees. If, after four minutes, the meter does not reflect infinite or .0000 on the digital meter open circuit, replace the thermostat.----If thermostat checked out ok then check defrost heater connection.The defrost heater is connected to the side of evaporator coil in the freezer section.If this defrost heater is faulty then it will not melt the ice getting collected on the evaporator coil and due to that defrost system will not be able to function as required.Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.-----------

Now to see where defrost heater is located.Please click on this link below and see part number 14 on the diagram.And part number 15 is evaporator coil.And part number 21 is thermostat.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R0405135-00006.png

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This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

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Stephen Lam

  • 670 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 28, 2011

SOURCE: What is the resistance of the defrost thermostat

When the defrost thermostat is below 40 deg F, the resistance should read close to zero ohms. Above 40 deg F, it should read open. It sounds that yours is defective and replacing it should fix your defrost problem. The way it should work, is when the defrost timer shuts down the compressor and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater heats up the coil until it reaches 40 deg F, and then the thermostat opens and cuts the power to the heater so not to over heat the freezer. After the 45 minute defrost, the compressor kicks back on to resume the cooling cycle again. Hope this helps you.

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Silver King Blue Max 929449 manual please?

Question edited for clarity and put things on the right order.

It is not available online, and the company went out of business.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Blue+Max+Silver+King+929449+manual

Originally based in Colorado Springs Silver King closed it's doors abruptly several years ago making service for filter kings hard to come by.

Silver King Vacuum Cleaner Repair Services - VacuumsRUs


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How do I test the defrost thermostat?

Defrost thermostat is a temp control. To test it, it would need to be in ice water. When cold it is a closed switch or contacts (checked with a multimeter. When it gets above 50--55 degrees it will open the contacts. Another way, unplug refrigerator----safely hook a jumper wire across the thermostat leads by passing the thermostat and then put the refrigerator in defrost. If heater comes on the thermostat is probably bad. If still no defrost--- you may have burned out heaters. Once done testing this way make sure you remove jumper and tape all wires for a safe connection.
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The cooling coil in the back of the freezer frosts up and needs to be manually defrosted nearly ever 2 weeks. The timer seems to cycle properly and the compressor cycles properly but the defrost cycle...

The ohms of the defrost heaters vary, but all you really need to do is check it for continuity. If its open, its bad. The defrost thermostat must be closed for defrost to happen,it is in series with the heater the defrost thermostat opens to terminate defrost, then the timer puts the unit back in run mode.
To check the defrost thermostat you have to put in in a freezer for a while then check for continuity . The actual open and close temps are usually stamped right on the defrost thermostat Its considered good practice to replace both the heater and the defrost thermostat while you are in there
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My GE profile side by side frig goes into defrost mode more often, every 1-2 days. Temps go up to 46 degrees for frig and 8 degrees for freezer. It doesn't take too long before it cools back down. Is...

. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
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The freezer keeps freezing up and will not defrost

remove the rear panel inside the freezer and test the defrost heating element and defrost thermostat both on the evaporator coil,the heater will show some resistance if good,and the defrost thermostat will show 0 ohms like a switch when its on,but it needs to be tested at or below 32 degrees to be closed to test good
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My unit is not defrosting, i guess its a timer issue not defrosting often enough when it is very cold out?

The unit must defrost regularly when icing conditions occur and long enough to get rid of the ice and short enough to not waste energy. There is usually a best place for the sensor or thermostat on the outdoor coil just after the metering. Some manufactures have a tubing stub for the thermostat and others a well. If you remove or change the sensor try to mark where it was. Failure to place it in the correct place will cause the unit to either not defrost or the cycle will be too short and the unit will build ice anyway. Place it at the wrong end of the coil and you will get no defrost activity. When the compressor runs the clock runs and time is accumulated. At the selected intervals the clock will energize a defrost event through a thermostat or a sensing bulb, If the temperature of the sensor (refrigerant filled sensing bulb on the Ranco E-15) is below 28 degrees F. the defrost will take place. When the temperature of the sensor rises to 50 or 70 degrees F Or 10 minutes elapses the defrost cycle is terminated. A typical defrost cycle should be from 1.5-3 minutes.
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My defrost system is not working. How do you check the defrost timer and the thermostat disk ?

The defrost thermostat electrically closes when the temperature is below 40 degrees F and opens when it is above. You can check it with an ohmmeter and it should read close to zero ohms when the temperature is freezing and infinity when it senses temperature above 40 degrees F.

The defrost timer typically runs the compressor for 6 hours then turn off the compressor and powers the defrost heater from about 30-40 minutes then the compressor is powered once again. The timer typically fails be not advancing causing the refrigerator to either stay in defrost mode, or in cooling mode. To check, turn the cam until you hear a click. With the refrigerator plugged in, it should turn off the compressor and power the defrost heater for 30-40 minutes. If the compressor does not turn on after 40 minutes, then the timer is bad and needs to be replaced.
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We are suffering intermittent failure to cool. The refrigerator will cool fine for long periods, and then for no apparent reason stop cooling. Then it will "magically" start working again. There doesn't...

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


The defrost system has a defrost thermostat Which is clamped to the evaporator coils behind the rear cover inside the freezer. When the defrost heater is on the temp rises and when it reaches around 32 degrees at the defrost thermostat it cuts the heater off to prevent excess heating. Yours may be defective and not cutting off. Sometimes you can tell it's bad by the swollen appearance. You can test it with an ohm meter. It should show open when warm and closed when below 32 degrees.
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Need photo of Defrost Switch or Sensor

moz-screenshot.jpg34f1f3f.jpg
Unit needs to be cold when you test. it closes at around 20 or 30 degrees F and opens around 55 deg F
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Hi, I have a westpoint WPS1602 fridge and the problem is defrost not working. I checked the thermostat, it suppose to be NC contact at low temperatures. but is showing open circuit always. The thermostat...

The thermostat should show open above 50 degrees to protect the refrigerator from over heating during defrost. If its not closing while frozen the thermostat needs to be replaced and that will get you going. The new thermostat come with crimp splicer connections and you only need to unplug the fridge and cut the two wires to it, then splice the new one in.
If that don't get you running again let me know and I will give some other things to check, Thanks, Sea Breeze
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