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anthony Posted on Jan 20, 2016
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Error code Lr

Ok i did put appaart my machine everything looks great but the inside spinners do not rotated and all it does is spin the tumbler very slow so i think the motor is ok error code lr

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The Knight

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  • Washing Mach... Master 76,851 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2016
The Knight
Washing Mach... Master
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0helpful
1answer

Maytag bravo washer model number MTW6700tQ0 wont finish spinning please help!!

Hello c bellone,
If you rotate the clutch pulley by hand CW the tumblers should rotate in the wash basket.If you rotate the clutch pulley CCW the tumblers will rotate until the clutch spring comes under tension then the wash basket will begin to turn CCW and the tumblers will stop rotating because the transmission rotates with the wash basket. Do you have this action?
The clutch has been an issue for many are you taking dc or UC errors to the display?This clutch incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing (one way clutch bearing) designed to rotate freely CW and lock up CCW to rotate the spinner shaft in spin cycle rotating the wash basket/transmission CCW.You are halfway thru the clutch removal process, I would drop the clutch out and inspect the roller clutches, clean them up with WD-40 and some light bearing grease.If they are rusted up beyond clean up and or the clutch spring is broken as in this post you will have to replace the clutch.You will know what you are up against once the clutch is out and opened up for inspection.
Here is the process I use for clutch removal;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
0helpful
1answer

Machine rocks, all four sides, removed and oiled clutch bearings, tightened the belt, still rocks and errors out no matter the size load, machine is balanced. ?

I feel you still have a clutch problem... Did you try this test before you cleaned up and re-lubed the One-Way Roller clutches in the Clutch pulley?

From my Clutch Fix post;

Let's demystify dC and uC error codes plaguing the FAV6800A and the LCD Flavor FAV9800A

One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate.


Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the second pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction.


Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.

Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.


The Control Board sees the TDS analog voltage swings out of design limit and shuts down the spin cycle. If the TDS was not working as designed the machine would walk across the room and unplug itself or self-destruct.


The Control Board programming will try several attempts to redistribute the wash load and when the magic number of wash load redistribution attempts has been reached the Control Board signals a dC or uC error code to the display. I believe the FAV9800A signals a text error to the display i.e. "unbalance condition?" or something like that.

Anyway I thought you might want a little more insight into just what is going on here. A very poor Clutch design by Maytag. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark of service and I was not about to trash a $1K machine. Sorry to say I feel number of them do make it to the curb on bulk trash pickup day.

I call this the Spinner Shaft Coupler. Not sure what Maytag calls it.

8d3da4e.jpg

This is the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.

While holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CW Wash/Agitate direction with your other hand. It should rotate freely in the CW direction around Spinner Shaft Coupler.

Now rotate the white One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing plate in the CCW direction the Spin Cycle direction. It should lock up and not rotate CCW around the Spinner Shaft Coupler. If it does the tumblers will rotate slightly and cause the wash basket load to go off balance as the wash basket spins up.

If the TDS is working as designed the machine will fail in Spin Cycle with dC or uC error codes. If the One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing can be cleaned up and re-lubed you could be back in service with no cost.


9dfa818.jpg



If so what were the results?.................Rich

0helpful
1answer

Getting dc and uc codes. Took clutch apart and cleaned and checked spring as suggested. Everything in there is ok. I don't have an upper bearing just the 1 way bearing. There is a lot of wobble in the spin...

Is the wash tub rotating CW in the wash cycle (tumblers should rotate only)? You can release the washer top to observe. If so I feel there may be binding in what I call the Spinner support bearings you can see those at the end of my Clutch Fix post.

Are you taking dc/uc unballance error codes while in wash cycle or just during spin cycle?

I believe somewhere around series 12 and above the machine design went to the integrated lower tub bearing/One-Way roller clutch bearing.

Any sign of wash water contaminating the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing (rust)?.........Rich
0helpful
1answer

Lr code went into service mode but wont respond to commands model #fav6800aww

Tom,

The LR error code can be a tough one to troubleshoot but I'll see what if any help I can be.

The LR code stands for Locked Rotor.
If you Power Cycle the 120VAC to the machine will the error code clear?
What cycle was the machine in when you took the error code wash, spin?
If you remove the front panel and with the 120VAC power cord removed from the service outlet can you rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) or CW (wash/agitate) direction.
Sounds like you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual.
Let’s see if the drive system is free and not locked up…………Rich
0helpful
2answers

Maytag neptune error code lr

i think this one is the one with the clutch. if it does it b4 it spins. put it on a spin. if it doesnt spin, u need a clutch. under the unit the belt is whapped on it
0helpful
1answer

Maytag neptune tl makes grinding sound and stops at 33 minutes in normal mode and at 24 minutes in quick wash mode


Hello djlampl,

With the lowest spin cycle setting I enter spin cycle in Quick Wash around the 21 minute mark. But first question is do you hear the grinding noise with the tumblers rotating during the wash/agitate cycle?

If you start a spin only cycle do you hear the grinding noise?

Does the washer error code out with an error code to the display? Codes such as dC, uC, Lr?, I assume the machine type is a FAV6800AW is that correct?

Any additional info will help in troubleshooting…..Rich

Assuming the machine type is a FAV6800A/FAV9800A here are some handy links;

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.


1helpful
2answers

I have a lr readout on my maytag neptune model fav6800aww that says motor not running properly . is that total motor failure and is swapout difficult?

Hey rickthecabin,
My post is for DIY folks I’m an owner as you of the machine. What makes the “Lr” error code difficult to troubleshoot at least for me is not having known good parts for substitution in troubleshooting.

Just in case you don’t have the SM; The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

From the SM the FAV6800AW the Lr error code = Locked Rotor: The machine has repeatedly tried to turn the motor. I feel this could be related to the following failure scenarios; drive system binding, a failed Motor Controller, a failed Control Board, a failed Motor or signaling issues due to the wiring harness/connector corrision issues.

There could be loss of signaling to/from the Control Board via connector CONN P-25 on the Control Board to JP-4 at the Motor Controller which carries the PWM control signal for the Motor Controller. The Motor Controller takes single phase 120VAC and converts to 3 phase 120VAC for motor speed and motor direction control, There could be loss of Tach input signaling from the Motor to the Control Board and anywhere in between within the machines wiring harness. As I mentioned without known good parts this could be a difficult problem to troubleshoot.

I have all known good ebay major parts for this machine so it’s easy for me to troubleshoot. If you decide on a service repair call I would make sure the service tech has all of the parts I list. My WAG is the Motor Control Board then the main Control Board then the Motor. A wiring harness issue would be last on my list of troubleshooting steps but reseating connectors is no cost.

I would check for system binding issues no out of pocket cost for that.

Can you lift he lid of the washer and rotate the wash basket in the Counter Clockwise direction. The Wash Basket should rotate with one finger with what I call the pinky finger test with very slight rotational resistance in the CCW direction. I’m trying to get a feel for drive system binding issue. The wash basket under normal conditions will not rotate in the CW direction. What are your results? This is a good test for upcoming Clutch issues if you haven’t all ready experienced.

If you have a measure of Wash Basket CCW rotational resistance it could be caused by the One-Way rusted roller clutch bearings, rusted Outer Tub Bearings, and the roller bearing located in the Spinner Assembly all brought on by a slight leak with the Tub Seal. I’m not saying this is the trigger for the “Lr” error we are doing non intrusive troubleshooting and we need to start somewhere. Do you detect any excess drive system binding in the CCW direction of the Wash Basket?

I would remove the front cover of the machine with 120VAC removed to the machine rotate the Clutch Pulley by hand and see if you have any binding. The Clutch Pulley should rotate freely in the CCW direction which will rotate the wash basket in the spin direction. The Clutch Pulley should rotate freely in the CW direction which is the agitate/tumbler rotation direction, any binding? I don’t expect any binding with the motor but you could remove the belt and check for rotational resistance of the motor it should be very light.

If you can get into Service Mode try the Quick Spin Test on page 14. What are the results? If you can’t run the test I would next try the Motor Control Board Output Test on page 15. You will need to remove the front panel of the machine and disconnect Connector JP4 on the Motor Control Board. If you feel you are not qualified to check 120VAC measurements at the Motor then it would be time to call in a qualified Maytag FAV6800AW repair company.

I have worked with a forum member who cleared the “Lr” error by replacing the Motor Control Board. It’s gets expensive with part buys if that doesn’t restore normal operation.

Post back if you have questions. Rich
0helpful
2answers

UC code on my Maytag Neptune Washer FAV6800WW

HI. this uc code represents a no spin state of the unit. this is caused by a faulty Motor control assembly. you will need to replace the Motor control assembly. this will fix this issue and, restore the normal actions of the unit.

This Motor control assembly will cost about $219.00.
2helpful
1answer

Tub rotates CW during agitation, out of balance, hits side of metal cabinet, but no error code


Hello srcoray,

Did you replace the clutch, just trying to get a feel for your hands on experience with the machine? If you did the work did your machine use the upper roller clutch bearing along with the clutch pulley mounted roller clutch bearing?

The FAV6800AW uses a reversing motor and motor controller that powers the motor and clutch pulley to rotate CW in Wash/Agitate cycle and CCW in Spin Cycle.

In Wash/Agitate cycle the roller clutch bearing should rotate freely CW allowing the agitator shaft to drive the transmission in wash cycle driving the tumblers to rotate only not the wash basket. In spin cycle the roller clutch bearing will lock up (one-way roller clutch bearing) driving the spinner shaft to rotate the wash basket and transmission CCW. Unless my thinking is wrong it sounds like the one way roller clutch bearing is frozen or dragging and not rotating freely in wash cycle rotating the wash basket CW. I’m an owner like you and will try to help.

Just a few other questions;

If you have a load of wet clothes in the wash basket and you select Spin Only cycle will the spin cycle complete with out dc/UC errors?

With the lid raised can you rotate the wash basket CW? It should not; it should only rotate CCW and do that with very little resistance.

Rich
2helpful
1answer

Clutch bearing question - tub not spinning

Hello jpdarrish,

“” Having similar problem as many with machine not spinning and stalling at the first spin cycle and never completing. I opened the lid during the cycle and see the tumplers will spin ok but the tub will not spin and cannot move in either direction by hand.”” Was this the original issue before you removed the clutch? Were you taking dc or UC errors to the display?

“”As a note, the tub will turn freely by hand while the clutch is disengaged. As soon as it's seated, it's impossible to turn the tub by hand.”” By disengaged do you mean that the clutch pulley was removed from the machine and the wash basket rotates CCW freely?

With the Clutch pulley installed properly the wash basket will only rotate CCW it will no rotate CW that is normal operation. You should beable to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger and very little resistance with the clutch installed.

""I did remove the clutch assembly. The sping mechanism looks good. I used WD-40 and some bearing lube on the needle bearings. But the bearings will only turn in one direction. Is that normal? Anyway, I reassembled (took a bit of work to get it completely seated) and tried but still having same issue.""

Yes this a Drawn Cup Roller Clutch designed to rotate one way only clockwise for our FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines.
My description of how I believe the Roller clutch bearing engages the spinner shaft to spin the clutch basket.

This write up is my understanding of how this clutch system works in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW. I could be wrong and would invite any comments from the forum to help me better understand how the clutch works in wash and spin cycle;

The clutch in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing. This roller clutch bearing will allow one-way rotation freely in clockwise rotation. The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW washer uses a reversing motor which has power supplied by the motor controller. In wash cycle the motor controller powers the motor to produce clockwise rotation which turns the clutch pulley CW. The Roller Clutch Bearing spins freely in the CW direction so only the agitator shaft will rotate driving the transmission to rotate the tumblers. In spin cycle the motor controller powers the motor CCW. This rotates the clutch pulley CCW and the Roller Clutch Bearing locks up and drives the spinner shaft CCW. At the start of a spin cycle the tumblers will rotate ¼ to ½ turn of rotation and no more as the clutch spring is wound to tension. Once the spring is wound to tension the spinner shaft begins rotating the spinner plate which rotates the transmission and wash basket CCW. Because the transmission is spinning at the same rate as the wash basket the tumblers do not rotate. This will happen if the clutch spring is broken and in spin cycle the wash basket will spin very slowly with no clothes in the wash basket and the tumblers will rotate. You will need to replace the clutch.

Dose you clutch look like the one on the left or right? My is on the right and my machine is a series 16 1st digits of my s/n are 16.

95e2d5e.jpg

cd804f6.jpg
If your Roller Clutch bearings rotate freely in CW direction and you installed the clutch pulley correctly you should beable to rotate the washbasket CCW with the lid open with one finger. If it dosent we have some binding issues with the clutch install. This is from a post of a forum member I helped. He has a good install fitment process. This is a challange but I can no do to it in less then 5 min. after a dozen or so clutch removal and installs of my machine.

""The Service manual download was very helpful because it has a few pictures to show the 1/16"-1/8" gap from the shaft to the clutch face. What this really is telling you is that "if" you get all the three parts (clutch plate- bearing sleeve and cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections) to the clutch assembly back in correctly, you will end up with the 1/16"-1/8" gap. I also did my repair by tilting the machine back and working on it in place. Test the fit of each of the 3 pieces seperately so you will have a better idea what you are trying to fit. The cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections "seats" into the bottom of the tub. The bearing also seats onto the shaft in the notches. The clutch simply fits on the square shaft. The trick is getting the 3 piece assembly on with every piece seated correctly. By no means impossible, but working in limited space it was the most difficult part to do. Something that I thought of (after the repair) was to actually cut out the sheet metal directly below the clutch. This would allow easy access for the reassembly.’”

Again I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece, as pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.

Try a reinstall of the clutch after reviewing the above comments. After the clutch reinstall first try to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger it should offer very little resistance and not rotate in a CW direction.

Post back for any additional help. Rich
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