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Sounds like one or 2 stages of the sequencer is not kicking the other elements on. -OR- the limits ie klaxon switches in series with your elements are stuck open.
There is a switch located on the duct from the heating element. Which you are not able to reset, you have to replace it if it's defective. Do a continuity test on it and if there is no continuity then the switch has to be replaced.
The heating circuit is composed not just by the heating element alone but also the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing including the four-terminal cycling thermostat on the blower housing and the motor centrifugal switch. The most prudent thing to do first when a heating problem is experienced is by checking the continuity of these parts and making sure the dryer is getting 220VAC supply. Note that the dryer works both on 110VAC for the controls and drive motor while the 220VAC is solely for the heating circuit. The 110VAC supply may be present which will make the dryer run but the 220VAC may not be present and consequently there's no heat at all.
Check the circuit breaker including the power outlet and make sure the dryer is being supplied with 220VAC. Check the continuity of the components located on the blower housing and the heating element housing. All of those components must have continuity for the heating element to turn on. Note that the cycling thermostat has four terminals. Continuity check must be done between the two outer and "thick" terminals. Replace the part found to have no continuity and as a preventive measure, it is necessary to also replace the other part that comes side-by-side with the faulty part.
The thermal cutoff fuse is bad. Fuse is located on the side of the heating element. No continuity will indicate failed switch. replace as assembly with heating element.
there is a thermal overload switch that activates the heating element. This switch will be located in the area of the element itself. It is designed to shut off the element in the event the element itself reaches a temp beyond it's designed temp. It is a safety device. If the switch is out it will not allow the heating element to activate. This switch looks like a silver button and has several wires going to it is about the size of a dime. Replace this switch and you should be good to go
check the cycling switch,the hi-limit switch and the cutout switch all located on or near the element case,all items have control over the elements heating or the complete shut down of the element to prevent fire
it probably means there is an airflow issue (not enough to cool the heating element) either coming into the drier or going out. I would probably check the lint trap and hose leaving the drier
Coffeemakers have two heating elements: a brew element and a keep-warm element. When the water reservoir has run empty, a thermostat switches power from the brew element to the keep-warm element.
The keep-warm element will cause the thermostat to stay in this condition until more water is added [or power is cut off] which will cool it down to switch back.
However, if the keep-warm element has quit working, the thermostat may be reactivating the brew element. With no water in the reservoir, the brew element will heat up till the thermostat trips again, then cool down, etc. This cycle will repeat until power is switched off.
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