Dual element is hit or miss working. Sounds as if when the knob is turned, maybe shorting out. Suggestions to fix?

Shorted control behind knob. Temporary fix: remove fuses for that element

Dear Genie,
Well, you are right in your surmising!
That water has shorted out perhaps as many as several items.
One way to solve this problem would be to wait until the water dries up, could take days or a couple of weeks.
Another way would be to take a hair blow dryer and dry the parts by blowing them for a while, perhaps 10 to 20 minutes, but to see if that fixed it, you would need to turn it on, which could cause a short!
No good.
Best idea is to take it all apart and see if there is visible damage, and to take and electric meter and test it all.
God bless your efforts.

Yes it sounds as if you have control knob probs ..did it work b4 or is it a new cooker ?

ouch, sounds as ifthe valve has frozen up, replacing hte valve would be the solution

Sounds like you need to replace the burner control (part # WB23K5053)

It will need either a dual infinite or infinite switch, If the burner has an inner an outer element then it requires the dual.

Firstly turn power off at breaker.

The unit needs to be removed from the cut out and the cover removed from below the swtichs. the knob taken off and the secureing screws removed, then take note of the layout of the wiring and the poistion of the switch, then swap the wires, reassemble test and then re-install

Sounds like that specific element has shorted to ground inside it's sheath. You'll probably find the element does not get as hot as it normally would.
A fuse will not blow, or breaker not throw, because of the point in the element that the element has grounded.

Elements are available from a number of resources.

A way to test if the element is shorted to ground:

Tools needed -

Ohmeter

1)Disconnect power from the appliance
2) Remove the element (Sometimes they are plugged in, sometimes the wires screw onto the ends of the element.
3) Set the Ohmeter to Rx1000 or more.
4) Measure the resistance between the outside metal sheath, and either of the two power connection points on either end of the element. Under any condition, you should not get a reading. If you do, the element is bad, and you need to get a new one. They are not repairable.
5) Re-install in the reverse removed.
6) Check all connections are clean and all is re-assembled as you originally found it.
7) Turn on power and check if element comes on.

It is unlikely the problem is with the control, but it is a possibility. Give me more info about the cook-top (make, model) so I can investigate further.

Sounds like a short in that particular burner circuit. Usually when the light stays on even after cool down the heat sensor is bad. This is inside the burner. If your getting white smoke the burner switch could also be shorted out.

open your cabniet up under the unit you will have to disconnect the venting in this will give you access to the blower section also make sure the filter is not hitting it inside they usally install a screen to prevent this but maybe yours is missing

the infamous "custom control kit" its an electronic board that only control that one precision temp burner all other elements ar regular switches, if thats the one where the sound os coming form replace the control. .nothing else to do