20 Most Recent Jenn-Air 35 in. JEC9536ADS Electric Cooktop Questions & Answers


The selector knob having lose contact the elements are for full adjument , the wire connection are rust and corroded need to clean terminal of elements.

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Jun 26, 2013


if you get me the information i will find you the top but they arent cheep ! you may want to look for used parts ?
Stove model
serial number
any other info you can find on it thanks Frank

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Nov 30, 2011


you need to check the wiring to that burner it appears that there has been a short to the burner

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Nov 30, 2011


Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Aug 14, 2010


Sounds like a broken wire, but if the service people already knew what was wrong, you should be bale to type in the Make and Model number into a Google search and find more information about it.

Maybe SearsPartsDirect will have a wiring diagram that you can look at to help diagnose the problem.

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Jan 23, 2009


you need a three wire or two as long as you have the two hots and ground. dont skimp on wire size though. hope this helps

Jenn-Air 35 in.... | Answered on Nov 04, 2008


Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Part PHS120A-3377 has been replaced by part# 74009254 which you can buy from either this link or from sears. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Apr 28, 2020


sounds like you may have a bad harness or bad infinite switch, you can test it with a multi meter.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor
is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
  1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
  1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
  1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

  1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
  1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
  1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
  1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter.If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve.This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-

element burner testing range element-short.2-undefined-undefined-0.gif

infinite switchs stove-undefined-undefined-2.jpg

infinte switch_noheat_03-undefined-undefined-5.jpg

oven harness ge-switch-ignition-harness_l-undefined-undefined-9.jpg
if the harness is damaged it may effect any of the others down the line as well causing the burners to act up as they are wired in series

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 17, 2020


The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
  1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
  1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
  1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

  1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
  1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
  1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
  1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


igniter spark clean ur ignitor-undefined-undefined-0.jpg

ignitor spark ignitor-undefined-undefined-2.jpg

ignitor gas spark ignitor-undefined-undefined-5.jpg

ignitor damagedsparkignitor-undefined-undefined-9.jpg

infinte switch_noheat_03-undefined-undefined-14.jpg

infinite switchs stove-undefined-undefined-20.jpg

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 17, 2020


Contact JENN-AIR directly to inquire.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 17, 2019


Request the wiring diagram (not a schematic) directly from Jenn-Air.

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Mar 17, 2019


It could be under the top or in the back. Remove the top and look for it there first. Part 18 is what your looking for, good luck.
jenn-air dia-xbl2pe5dto2xvxzh3opkeyoa-5-0.gif

Jenn-Air... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018

Not finding what you are looking for?
Jenn-Air 35 in. JEC9536ADS Electric Cooktop Logo

13 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Jenn-Air Cooktops Experts

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

Paul Carew

Level 3 Expert

3518 Answers

MARLON KELLER

Level 2 Expert

111 Answers

Are you a Jenn-Air Cooktop Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

Jenn-Air Cooktops

  • Jenn-Air Cooktops

Most Popular Question

wiring jec9536bdb cooktop

  • Cooktops
Loading...