Where does the hot water line attach to? - TitanNet TITANTANKLESS. COM PRESENTS THE TITAN SCR2 WHOLE HOUSE TANKLESS WATER HEATE

Tankless or hybrid water heater?

Tankless gas must have special fitting between water heater and vent that has a condensate line fitting. Hot toxic vent gasses traveling up vent pipe cause acidic water vapor to form inside vent pipe that drips back down vent and drips onto heat exchanger and other parts eventually burning hole through expensive metal alloy heat exchanger, rendering tankless computer water heater useless after electric circuitry gets wet and shorts out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html#vent

Hybrid or heat pump type computer water heaters must have condensate drain connected to catch pan located just above storage tank and below compressor. Condensation can form on condenser coils and drip into catch pan where there is primary and secondary drain
http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-GE-Heat-Pump-water-heater.html#maintenance

Read product manual
Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.

Ok that sounds more life a faucet that is bad. In today world, the newer (20 years and less) they have pressure balance faucets. Have the faucet serviced. NOW lets look at an other area check out your home to see if you have a cross connection. A cross connetion is a place where hot and clod water meet. I know that everywhere but the toilet!

Yes thats true. But we buy all kinds of things that we attach to a fauects or tub spouts. Lets say you attached a hose to the sink in the garage to wash the dog with warm water. if you turned the water off at the handle of the hose and you left the water on at the faucet. BINGO

the hot and cold water mix and then up and down water temp while taking a shower.

So start looking first before spending any money. if ANYTHING is attached to any faucet take it OFF and then take a shower.

Be safe

Thanks

Tom ( how did we do ?) :)

if you can disconnect the main line going to the heater easily try attaching a smaller line that might provide enough pressure. this is just an idea if its easy to do try it. how much pressure do you need?? to run the heater.

First thing to do is wrap rag or towel around spraying joint to localize water.
Next, turn off power to water heater.
If gas, rotate knob to pilot so pilot light stays lit but burner does not come on
If electric, turn off circuit breaker.
Close cold-water shut off valve above tank.
Open tub valve to release pressure on water heater.

Wait for water to cool before working on water heater to avoid high pressure scalding water.
When finished, make sure tank is full of water and water comes out of tub valve before turning on power.

Water heater should not have plastic couplings.
I can't see your problem exactly, but water heaters have 3/4" nipples coming out of top.
Easiest solution is use flexible connectors from Lowes or Home depot.



Flexible connectors are 24" or 30" long and have 3/4" nut on each end, so disassemble existing pipes using pipe wrench.
Lowes and Home depot can help you select appropriate pipe >> take several phone-photos of your pipes to home center so they can see your problem precisely.
Attach 3/4" male adapter on end of pipe.
Attach flexible connectors between pipe and water heater nipple.
Cold water line has shut off ... make sure this attached to nipple marked cold.
Make sure hot pipe is attached to nipple marked hot.
Use teflon tape on threads.

Add a comment if you need more help.

Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.

Run it on propane and let water heater go through a heating cycle, and when it shuts off, CAREFULLY , pull the lever on the pressure relief valve slightly and see how hot the water feels there. If it's hot there, then it's more than likely a problem with your by-pass valve(s) at the back of the water heater. Either in the wrong position, or faulty, and allowing hot and cold to mix. If in doubt which one it may be, you may be able to remove by-pass set-up completely, depending on what system you have. What the ultimate goal is would be to attach your incoming cold line directly to bottom fitting of water heater, and outgoing hot line, to the top. Not unusual in some systems for one of the shut-offs in between the 2 lines to stay partially open, and allow cold to mix with hot, thus -warm only. If it's not hot at pressure relief valve, then I suspect a faulty thermostat, but that would mean they both (hydro and gas) would have to be faulty which is unlikely.

This faucet is the hot only version so it has two copper lines and one Santoprene rubber line. The copper line directly under the handle is the inlet from the wall - the second copper line attaches to the hot water tank by the corner. The Santoprene line attaches to the middle of the hot water tank. This faucet cannot be installed without the hot water tank.

You need a recirculating line. You will have to hire a plumber to run a water line from the farthest fixture or to the fixture you are concerned about on the hot side and return it back to the water heater. this will cause hot water to constantly run throught the hot water line (via the recirculating line) and when you want to draw water from the fixture, you will already have hot water right at the line.
I know this works with standard tank water heaters, but it is a lil trickier with rinnai units(but very possible) if your plumber pleads the 5th and tries to sell you another unit call the Rinnai manufacturerand ask them how.

If the water heater is working fine than I would not worry about the function of the water heater. What the problem may be is that some of your WATER LINES HAVE MOVED, AS THEY WERE NOT SECURED PROPERLY. The sound you may have heard was the Copper or PVC(Plastic) lines just getting back comfortable. I Suggest checking that your water lines are secured about every 3 or 4 feet with the proper ancjhor....Metal for metal pipe, copper for copper pipe, etc. Sometime as in my house, pipes are run through a hole drilled through a stud or a piece of wood, usually when hot water is run through this pipe. You can here an expansion of the water line interacting with the pipe expanding, if the hole in the wood was not drilled big enough......Experience of remodeling a very old house.......Joe