First check that any by-pass valves are in proper position. Remember, cold water has to enter in bottom fitting at back of tank, and hot water comes out at top fitting. Thus any valves that may be there, need to be in open position, and any valve between those 2 lines will need to be closed. If all valves are in proper position and working as they should, I would suspect you have a faulty check valve between top (hot) line fitting and tank. One easy way to check that before replacing it, would be to shut incoming water source off, whether running off pump or hose attached outside. Then relieve all pressure in system by opening taps until all pressure is gone. Now, go outside and open pressure relief valve carefully ( in case it's hot ) and make sure pressure is relieved there as well. Now, carefully hold pressure relief valve open while you have someone turn water back on, and see if you get good flow from pressure relief valve. If you get good pressure coming out of there, that tells you your tank is getting full, and you have water coming in as needed, so problem has to be on hot side ( top fitting ) and/or onward from there, which would be check valve fitting at top next to check. Remove the check valve and If you don't have a new check valve to try it, just put a short galvanized 1/2" pipe nipple in there for now if needed and that should do it, just attach your fitting directly to nipple. Before you do this, make sure you have removed all aerators etc on taps that may be plugged and tested pressure that way as well just in case. I have seen all of them plug up at same time before. If you remove them and get good pressure, then problem solved.
Hi Mike, thx for the info...did do all as said, even took off hot water line from tank and put a pocket screw driver in the outlet side and felt nothing....all valves in correct position, put water to system and within 15 seconds flow from hot side stops...Do you have the part number to the check valve...I have been looking online and can't find any information on the check valve...I have my orginal owners manual and with blowup view of all parts and no check valve....next step would be to call Atwood direct... Dennis
Something weird here, so let's get you through this, unfortunately I have to ask a few more questions. First of all, that check valve could be on cold side (inlet) as well due to the fact that there is a few arguments about which one the check-valve should be on, if one used at all. Personally, I would take it out and use 1/2" galvanized pipe nipples into tank, and connect lines directly to that. They cause restriction, as well as problems over time including a buzzing noise when hot water used. They have a plunger and spring assembly inside that over time, or if overpressure happens will fly apart and plunger will block water flow. The plunger looks quite like a golf tee, and often when it flies apart, the plunger stays in the fitting, then lodges itself in a position that it either will cut off flow from hot side or restrict is greatly. Believe it or not, I've seen them break in such a way the plunger part entered the line itself and cause the blockage there. First thing I need to ask I guess is did you get good flow from pressure relief valve when water was on and pressure relief was open? Next, make sure tank is shut off, and drain it. Leave drain plug out and turn water back on, and see if good flow from drain as well, and flush the tank for a few minutes as well while doing this, and watch for anything white plastic, shaped similar to a golf tee, to come out or block hole while flushing. One other thing, could you please explain as best as you can, where the valves are as far as your by-pass goes at back of tank. This may even be easier if we sent pictures etc by e-mail if you can get any. We're not supposed to exchange e-mails, but recently I believe that policy has changed as long as it's o.k. with you, the asker.
Hi Mike, all bypass valves are in the right position, I closed off the suppy to the tabk, out of the tank, opened the pypass and got plenty of flow out of the faucets on cold and hot side...pulled drain plug and turned on water and had great flow out of drain...put plug back in fill tank turn on faucets and hot side flow stops after 15 seconds....doesn't matter if I use house water or pump, same thing happens... have hooked up connections at the bathroom faucet "furthest away" and blowed 40 psi air and then hooked up hose and 55 psi water, all flowed great all the way back and out the drain plug hole...put drian plug back in, fill system with faucets open and flow stops after system is full, acts just like a oneway check valve....turn off house water, open all faucets, purge pressure, go to WH tank and slowley remove drain plug and it has pressure, takes a few minutes to lower the pressure enough to remove drain plug...once the drain starts to flow, you can hear the sound of draining through the faucets...acts just like check valve is flipped to the wrong side....do you know the part number and where to by a new check valve for this Atwood....the water heater itself is in great condiion would like to find this problem....by the way, I am an ASE certified Master Technician for 30 years, but this has got me stumped....
e-mail is ok with me...
You have to remember, when you switch it to by-pass, all that does it re-route cold water around water heater and in through hot line , thus you will probably get good pressure through both for whatever time, as it is now going around water heater. Here's a link to picture of check valves. Do me a favor and describe where valve(s)are located on back of water heater, and by-pass included. I need to know this. (http://www.coastdistribution.com/PDF/Coa... )
2 VALVES, 3 VALVES, 1 VALVE?
they have a few different ways of installing by-pass, so I need to know your configuration to pinpoint problem area.
Not unusual for by-pass valves to screw up and redirect water to where it shouldn't be going at certain times. If you really want to save time troubleshooting, simply remove whatever is required to allow cold line (feed) to go directly in to bottom with nothing else attached ( valves, "t"'s ) and same on hot coming out, remove everything else except straight out to hot. Also remove any fittings, between tank and lines, and replace them both with 2 of 1/2" short pipe nipples. That way you have straight through flow in and out with nothing to cause obstructions.
PS, on that link, scroll down to top of page 294
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