Wiring Speaker to amp

Could try switching right and left subs. If the problem moves to the other side pull the wiring and redo.
Then if the wiring is ok check the sub.

go to goolge or youtube and type that in and it should give it to u

the premier amp is better since it has a better rms rating (360w total or 160w each sub) than the eclipse (280w if you bridge all 4 channels which isn't possible but 140w for each speaker bridging 2 channels per speaker). Neither are going to push your subs but if you get another amp wiring kit and use one amp per sub they will sound a lot better and you could just hook both power wire and ground wires from the bridged channels to the power and ground terminals for the sub. That would be my suggestion since the subs are rated at 350w and each amp is 280w and 320w which will push but not blow the subs.

Hi, if you still need a photocopy of instructions email me [email protected]

If you want instructions in brief this involves POWER CONNECTIONS, PHONO LEAD & SPEAKER CONNECTIONS:

POWER (At the same time when routing these wires, I would connect the PHONO LEADS from the car cd player to the amp, if your car cd player only has 1 preout (1red & 1 white) then you will need two phono splitters, a female to 2 males. Phono leads carry the unamplified sound from cd player to the amp):
~ Permanent 12V+ (Thick lead that is fused direct from battery all the way to the amp, wire must be 20a to 30a +, hence 1cm diameter wire, known as AWG8, Maplin sell cheaper kits then most)
~ Amp REMOTE (A thin insulated cable (5a is OK) from car cd player amp remote wire, this turns the amp on when the cd player is on, if your car doesn't have an amp remote wire, suggest nearest ignition supply or seperate switch that you turn on when you want to turn on the amp)
~ GrouND 12V- (Insulated lead (20a to 30a) to nearest part of unpainted car chassis such as interior panel screw hole, instead of an insulated cable all the way from the batery, this is common practise.

SPEAKER:
Each speaker has a - negative & + positive, these must connected correctly. The amp has 4 channel, 2 channel labeled as front, 2 channels labeled as rear. Using speaker wire, connect cable from amp to speakers. Note: Ensure the speakers being connected only receive sound from the amp (Not cd player as well, as would damage players or at the very least impair sound)
The amp has a feature called bridgeable this means a sub 8" or 10" sub can be powered by 'bridging' two channels. For example there are 2 ways to bridge power a Sub on the NIKKAI EAPA450:
i) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel RL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel RR.
OR
ii) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel FL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel FR.

Switches:
~ Bass boost, meant to be on for a channel if using sub, otherwise off.
~ X-over mode adjust hi/lo frequencies, only work if both x-over switches are on! Then adjust switch frequency knob, until it sounds right.
~ Gain (Volume knob) adjust volume knob up or down, until it sounds right!

NOTE:
You will need patience! many hand tools and parts such as: Wiring kit, fuse holder 20a/30a, Phono leads, speaker cable, Fork/ring connectors, wire strippers, wire cutters, set of screw drivers, also ueful to have zip ties to tdy excess cable and 'P' cable clips to tidy speaker wire to shelf, etc.

OK

Any more questions just email me [email protected]

When speakers are wired in the wrong way the will do the "pushing out" you're describing. Basically the polarities have been reversed and if kept like this over a period of time will blow the speaker. Best thing to do is to disconnect the power by the negative on the amp and take out the fuse from the power supply. Check the wires running from the amp to the subs, negative to negative and positive to positive. I know it sounds basic but many people do mix it up! I would also check to see what channels the subs have been wired into?

Best way is to have one sub from channel 1 and the other sub from channel 2 for example. Or if its a bridged 4 channel amp, have 1 sub running from channel 1&2, and the second sub running from channel 3&4 still making sure of the polarities. Again this all depending what kind of amp and sub you have.

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For example;
A 4 channel (bridged) 1000W amp. 250W max per channel or 500W per 2 channels! So if you have 2 500W subs, by connecting one to a single channel will decrease subs ability due to the lack of power supplied. However by combining 2 channels you optimize the output!
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Once you know all your wiring from your amp to subs are ok/good connections/good wires etc you shouldnt have to "wiggle the wires" to get it to work as this is just a bad connection. Also ensure that no 2 wires are touching. Make sure that the master volume on the amp is turned down. You dont need this to be on loud at all, in fact far from it or you'll risk damaging both the amp and subs!

Hope this helps!

My information shows the XM-1652Z as being a 2-channel amp. It will not be stable below 4-ohms in bridged mode. For best power, your subs will need to be 2-ohms with all 3 wired in series. This will present a 6-ohm load to the amp. After wiring the subs in series, connect the positive speaker wire to one channel (+) and the negative speaker wire to the other channel (-). For the 1652Z no other wiring is necessary. For subs you will also want to set the LPF (80Hz) switch to the "ON" position (to the right).

Keep in mind that the rated output is only 400 watts RMS at 4-ohms in bridged mode. That's kinda wimpy for 3 subs. You would probably obtain better results from two 2-ohm subs, each connected to a separate channel. That way each sub would be getting 200 watts RMS, still low but there's lots of good subs that will sound pretty loud with 150-200 watts

First you'll need to buy a good quality amp wiring kit. For the torture your battery receives, get a power cap. The higher the farad the better off. And as for sound quality use really good RCA's and speaker wire. Try to keep the amp as close to subs as possible, and speaker wire a the necessary length. Not to long. Be sure to have a good ground.

maybe the speaker is bad

First try one thing, switch the rca jacks around and see if the other speaker stops working this time.

If so the problem is in the rca jack or head unit.

If the same speaker is still not working, the problem will be the speaker, you will have no other options left since you changed amplifiers and checked all wiring.

Let me know if this helps you

No degradation. The smaller the ohm, the better the signal ( least resistance ). You and your system should be fine.

Funny you asked! I just got this receiver today, and its the first problem i had. Its the speaker wiring quality. I had thicker better quality wires in center channel speaker and audio was fine. Cheaper thinner on front and kept cutting out on 3 or 4 voulume level. I switched wires just to test and it never cut out again. Audio was fine.Try better thicker wires and u should b alright.