As far as I can tell this oven has an analogue clock on the front.
The noise is probably the motor that turns the clock hands. It would benefit from a tiny, tiny amount of oil on the motor. But it will get warm and all oil will burn off.
SOURCE: Thermador Convection Oven
well im not terribly familer with thermadors wiring but pull the top off and find the tech sheet then look for a device call a thermal fuse or tco thermal cut off most times they are on top or on the back of the oven yours should have one for each oven bet the one for the top is open can happen if there installed in to close a space
SOURCE: Thermador SC302T clicking noise, locked door after power outage
iodine, open the upper oven, look thru the grill below the control panel on the right side and there is your model number. The issue here is that when the power came back on the oven run thru a test and your lower lock motor has failed. It will need to be replaced. Yes the only way to stop this is to shut off the breaker.
SOURCE: thermador Built-in oven model cm301
Same issue w/our Thermador CM301. F23 and F24 codes - BSH acts like they have never heard of the problem! Awful service. This should be reported to the Consumer Board.
SOURCE: thermador oven control panel light is not working
Please see post by bonanzsapilot on 14 March 2009; he gives exact & easy to follow directions for making this repair for <$10. It's listed uner 'Thermador SC301IT oven - FixYa'. In a separate post I added the correct capacitor numbers from Newark.com. I made the fix in abt 30 min & it's good as new. Thermador no longer makes control panels for this oven & no wiring diagram is available to help. Shop price was estimated at $500.
SOURCE: The control panel on my Thermador scd302tp will
Hello, welcome to Fixya. To answer your question "Is there a cheaper fix?" In a word...maybe. **Turn off the breaker before attempting any service suggested here please** The first thing to look into is to check the harness which comes from the main relay board to the display head, they can become unsecured from the display or the main relay board/control and that will affect the display in a negative way, i.e. faded or no display illuminated. You may or may not be surprised how much those things vibrate under normal use with the cooling/convection fan running etc. and over time the harness becomes unsecured. Check "J1" on display head as well as "J1" on relay board of the display power harness and insure they are secure in place, wiggle them a bit to see if the display illuminates when turning the power back on. If that doesn`t yield any positive result`s you`ll need a new display head kit part # 492067, it comes w/harness and main relay board ( see image below ) and it is typically about $250 or so, but I haven`t had to purchase one in 4-5 yrs. I`ve checked repairclinic.com and their site says it is discontinued, but if it turns out you need one I may have one in my garage. ( I used to have my own appliance business, hence I still have some "new old stock". we can communicate via email if need be ) Let me know what you find and how it goes with the harness check, I`ll watch for your reply on your post here. I`ll cross my fingers for you it`s just a loose harness. Hopefully this was helpful to move you forward and shed some insight on what to look for at least. Good luck macmarkus :)
The F24 fault code is caused by a closed/stuck/shorted contact on the control panel for more than 60 seconds, such has someone leaning against the controls or objects hanging in front of the controls.
Solution: Touch OVEN OFF, or turn power OFF at the circuit breakers, wait 3 minutes and then turn it back on. If the condition persists the touchpad/control panel will likely need to be replaced. Turn the power off in order to stop the beeping.
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