20 Most Recent Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

Same issue w/our Thermador CM301. F23 and F24 codes - BSH acts like they have never heard of the problem! Awful service. This should be reported to the Consumer Board.

local part whare house can sell you a "dim clock" kit for your machine i believe it contains a new display board as well new wire harness

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The issue with these displays is they lose their intensity over time because of the fluorescent tube technology they use, hence the only remedy is to replace the control/display kit...the display only is not available, but a "kit" is.

You can find these "display kits" at "repairclinic.com" and similar to what I've attached here...




**Your other option, and the one I recommend, is to have the existing display and control rebuilt...the down side is this will require the parts to be removed and sent away**

Here you'll find all the info pertaining to this option by clicking on the link I've provided below

http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/CCSWeb.nsf/published/bosch

Hope this helps move you forward. Let me know if I can assist you further and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Make sure you hit the reset switch first... on top of the lower over... behind the panel...they trip easy and "kill" the oven.

Thermador SC301T and SC302 stack ovens have a weakness in the radial capacitors on the circuit board behind the LED clock. They get cooked from heat. Here is the fix: Remove two screws from the control panel, located facing up at the bottom on the panel frame.. open the oven door to see them. The panel is then held in place by push in toggles at each end, pull towards you to remove. Carefully unplug the three wiring harness plug-ins, and check them to see if any wires are loose. Set the panel aside. Remove 3 screws holding in the LED assembly, and again unplug the wire harnesses, examining each for loose wires at the terminal. When unplugged, take the LED assembly to the bench, remove the plastic housing, and with a mini soldering iron and watchmaker's eyeglasses, or hobby magnifier,
identify, heat, and remove two 35v 450uf 105 degree radial capacitors, and one 35v 68uf 105 degree
capacitor. These are ordered from MCM Electronics (google it) and are p/ns 96K0326 and 96K0331.
Insert new parts, solder and clip excess leads. Carefully examine the printed circuit board around the area of the leads you just soldered, as some boards do not have the copper close enough to the hole to make contact. Scrape the green insulation from the conductor near the hole to expose copper and make sure your solder makes contact with the copper and the lead. Use your multi-tester when finished to check continuity from all leads you just soldered and their nearest neighboring contact on the circuit board. I found a loose wire on the harness to repair, and one contact on a capacitor did not have the copper close enough to make contact without extra effort. When all is completed, reassemble. Turn back on power at the circuit breaker. You may get an F7 error code. Off with the power again, wait 3 minutes. Restore power, go to oven and press the OFF position on the glass control panel... hold for 10 seconds, and the clock should now be steady at 12:00. Push clock position, reset clock for proper time. Test oven light on/off. Test bake/temp/convection buttons,
on/off. This is a good fix, and will save you about $469.00 in parts and $500.00 in labor. The new
105 degree centigrade high temperature radial capacitors replace old 85 degree, which fail, and your repair should last. Total parts and shipping costs.. about $10.00.

Had the same problem. Replaced the display board.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

The "F34" code on your model of Thermador double oven indicates the control has detected an error with the airflow for the upper oven ( all lower codes start with "6", upper start with "3" )

This could indicate a faulty blower motor, not coming on at all, or if it does come on and still initiates an F34 error, it is likely the sail switch is sticking. It can be removed and cleaned as they do become contaminated with dirt, grease and dust over time.

The sail switch is located at the very bottom of the ovens where the grill is, under the lower door.

example:


( F34 can also be initiated by a failed "K6" relay on the control board, but that is less likely )

It can be accessed by way of removing the grill, however it is something usually best left to an authorized B/S/H/ service provider as it can be quiet involved and is better to pull the unit from the wall.

**Turn off the 40 amp breaker to the oven before attempting any service...safety first**

B/S/H/ is the parent company for Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Siemens.

Thank you for choosing FixYa today and good luck, please take a moment to rate the info provided here for you.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Sounds like you have a real POS on your hands. I would chuck it and get another unit rather than waste any more time and money on this Thermador.

most thermal switchs are not resetable and have to be replaced

bad condenser on the display board. The display has to be replaced.

One of the first things I check on any heating device besides the element is the High limit switches that only allow the element to work if the heat stays below a certain degree range. They areon furnaces, dryers, wall heaters, etc. They usually look the size of a small coin abouit 3/4 -1" with little wings on the side to for screws to secure them. That may be your problem.

these are NLA. No Longer Available. Try to get something that is acceptable to you and fits by researching "oven Knobs" at repair clinic dot com and selecting by looks and size.

1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Thermostats are resettable, thermal fuse aren't, they can only be replaced. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Check this link for possible solution. It says that a function key may be stuck or you may have a problem with a control board. Thermador Fault Codes AppliancePartsPros com

may be a shorted element, but could be almost ANY shorted item. Look at the board for a better idea of exactly which relay is blowing and trace it back. Otherwise a complete disassembly and testing of all components will be needed.

need new display board repair kit.