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kenneth matthews Posted on Sep 14, 2013
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I have a 7.5r27 kohler marine generator has less than 100 hours on total rebuild on motor and upgrade on generator electronics all work done by Nixon Power,Nashville Tn. It ran and worked fine,then it would crank and run perfect but would not make electricity. I havereplaced the printed circuit board replaced the only relay elect panel,cleaned the commentator and replaced brushes,when it cranks it only makes power for less than one second,only blinks I think I need to replace the generator regulator part no.228675,but can not find it anywhere. It has a very expensive price tag,not sure if it needs to be replaced,I am stuck at this point.I was told it was a 1989 year model. Where to find regulator and could this be the problem

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Renee F

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  • Kohler Expert 573 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 18, 2013
Renee F
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Given the work you have done, you never mentioned if you have had the stator and rotor tested? if you can get it running check for DC power on the brushes. that will help isolate. If power blinks for a second, that is the control trying to flash the rotor, if the rotor has a short the controls will remove the excitation voltage. Check that before going to any major expense

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 36 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2008

SOURCE: generator runs producing no power

Hi, remove the electric control panel & check the wiring as sometimes we have seen the wires coming off the voltage change over switches.
Also some of these units you can check the connections in the rear of the alternator & if it has brushes that they are not stuck.
Another problem we have had is the trip switches have went faulty but still switch operates ok, they need to be checked with a probe type tester for conductivety.

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rjivaro

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 29, 2009

SOURCE: electrical wiring for kohler engine

Perhaps you would enjoy the entire service manual. Here it is: http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf


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1975, 7.5 Kohler marine genset, runs only with the reset depresed

Can't search for a manual without model, type, serial, etc numbers...

A few things to take a look at:

1) Oil level / pressure sending unit. This is normally bypassed as long as the start switch is pressed. When engine starts, and switch is released, engine will die if sending unit is defective, or you are low on oil.

2) Exhaust temperature sensors. Older units were notorious for burning these up.

3) Cooling Water Temperature sensor. These cause trouble often, but mostly due to water pump impeller being eaten away by galvanic action and not able to pump water as effecively. End result is water temp higher than normal, which trips the switch, which kills the engine.

4) Alternator (generator) output not as it should. If output doesn't rise to proper level within a few seconds of engine start, the engine will be shut down.

5) Choke not working as it should

6) Bad fuel, bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter.
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