How would I test the humidity sensor in my LGDLE2514W? I've already replaced one metal strip out of two from that sensor. It did not help. Thank you for your help!

You need a new humidistat. There are two here, but not sure if you your machine

https://www.fix.com/parts/heating-and-cooling/dehumidifier/whirlpool/

There are numerous listings on Amazon, but all unavailable.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kenmore-Whirlpool-WP1168670-Dehumidifier-Humidistat/dp/B077B1VZSV

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Nicky,
Do you have moisture sense on this dryer? Also, do you use dryer sheets? If the question is yes to both, look for your moisture sensor strips inside the drum. They will be a couple of metal strips that may be straight or curved and they will be spaced about 1/2" apart. Get some rubbing alcohol and several cotton balls and wet one of the balls and rub the metal strips. If it comes back blue, keep cleaning with the alcohol and cotton balls until they come back still white. Some dryer sheets will leave a residue on the sensors and it makes the dryer think that the clothes are dry and they cannot sense the moisture. Hope this helps!

check for faulty ground wire both chasis ground and engine ground for damage looseness and corrosion

I believe this is still an old fashioned bi-metal flasher system.the flasher has two metal strips bonded together that expand and contract at different rates,causing the strip to bend.This causes the strip to bend,turning the circuit off.When the strip cools,the strip straightens out and turns the circuit on(this happens repeatedly to flash the bulbs).Because cool tempuratures make it work better,I think the flasher is bad.

replace the engine temperature sensor, it is a KNOWN ISSUE with these cars-they original ones were plastic tipped and crack, and even installing a metal one will not last more thank 30,000 miles or so-get an OEM sensor too, these engines will not go into closed loop mode (won't get up to temperature) for the emissions tests to clear for inspection. The part is less than $10, it takes 5 minutes to replace, and it will cure your problem, guaranteed.

"SE" error means you have a shorted membrane keypad.

The full model number from the tag on the oven should be one of these:

SMH9151B/XAA (service manual)
SMH9151B/XAC (service manual)
SMH9151BE/XAA (service manual)

I've included the service manual link for each one for your convenience. They'll help you with disassembly and in getting part numbers.

You can order parts by entering part numbers or your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

There are three ways you can fix this, with the last probably being the best:

1. Replace the membrane keypad ("switch membrane"). The cheapest way but the hardest. If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved. It's here.

2. Replace the control panel frame assembly ("assy control panel"), which comes with a new keypad on it already. Pretty easy, not expensive.

3. Replace the entire controller ("assy control box"). Very easy, and usually not much more than option 2.

No matter which option you prefer, at our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.



Some connectors on the relays may have a lock:



We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

check the felt strip,i've found screws,pennies,nuts and bolts stuck into the felt strip or the blower wheel is scraping,usually it's the rear gearing,the sleeve wears down part number WE1M462 and it's like 12 dollars

replace the humidity sensor. is it a GE?