Stuck button when I've taken a shot and want to view it, It won't pan left and more. The button feels as if it's stuck. It pans up and down and to the right OK.Can it be repaired?J.M.

check for a clogged cooler in your radiator. back flush it. if you had a weak pump the problem would be exactly opposite of what you are describing; as a matter of fact, the majority of transmission complaints are related to a warm trans, not a cold one. I am interested in what you find out; keep in touch. btw, your throttle to trans cable is adjusted to zero lash at idle.

Where can i purchase a tranmission pan for a 2001 Mitsubishi montero

Take out the drawer. Lift it out. Make sure nothing is in the tracks. Take everything out of the drawer. Put it back and watch the tracks. If it closes properly you've over loaded it, otherwise you have bad tracks.

If all the bolts are really removed, then try whacking it with a rubber mallet.....not too hard.
Hope this helps
Good Luck

the inside unit should be mounted with a slight tilt to the outside - so the water can drain outside.
also - be sure your drain hole (in the unit) is not plugged - either with dirt/debris.

Find your oil pan's drain plug -- it just looks like a bolt from the outside. Use this to drain the oil from your vehicle first (keeps you from getting covered in oil later). Once the oil has drained out (usually it will still be dripping, but that's OK) put the plug back in so you won't get dripped on. Then find all of the bolts around the pan that you just drained -- there should be several around the top of the oil pan connecting it to the engine. Once you have removed all of these bolts, the oil pan should come off relatively easily -- most times it gets a little stuck to the oil pan seal, so you might have to pull on it a little, or if it's really stuck, you might have to pry it off (be careful not to damage the oil pan when doing this). If you notice that the oil pan is REALLY stuck on there, make sure you got ALL of the bolts (if you miss one the pan will not move).
Once the oil pan is off the car, and you have done what you need to do, clean the surfaces where the oil pan will connect back to the car -- making certain that the old gasket has been totally removed (leaving debris from the old oil pan seal will keep the new seal from functioning correctly. When you go to put the pan back on the car, make sure you have the oil pan seal set perfectly where it is supposed to go, then hand tighten the bolts back where they should be. Don't tighten all of the bolts down quite yet.
Check to make sure that the oil pan seal has not moved out of place, then tighten one bolt, but not ALL the way tight yet. Once you have one bold mostly tightened with your wrench, start tightening the bolt on the opposite side of the pan from the first one you just tightened -- and make this one about as tight as the first one. Next, double check that the seal has not moved, and then tighten a bolt on a 90 degree angle from your first two. Next, do the bolt opposite the third. Work on one bolt at a time, making sure that you don't tighten two bolts next to each other in a row. This will help you make sure you do not move or distort your oil pan seal as you are replacing the oil pan. I don't know the exact number of bolts, but if you follow the pattern from the diagram below as much as you can, you should not have too many problems. Once all of the bolts have been wrench tightened in this order (or similar depending on how many bolts there are, and their placement) go around the pan one more time, making sure that all of the bolts are nice and snug and you should be just about done -- don't forget to put more oil in the car before you turn it on :-)
Bolt Tightening to keep pan seal from slipping out of place:
1 ----- 9 ----- 6 -----4 ' ' 7 8 ' ' 3 ----- 5 ---- 10 --- 2

Bread pan pops out

reach in with your fingers and bend the two little clips out a little until they grip your pan snugly. Start with 1/4 " and try that. If it doesn't feel snug go another 1/4 inch.... and so on....

Once you've framed your shot (zoomed in) and taken the picture. That's it, the picture you've taken is the one in your view finder, and that's the way its kept.

However, if you want to zoom in further, you can using the software you were provided with your camera, you can, you can also zoom in using your camera menu. Once happy you can then save the edited picture. But this time its a digital zoom and it will reduce the resolution. The picture won't look quite as fine. It will be a balance between picture quality and the extent you want to zoom in.

Hi. In Scene>panorama assist, a grid is shown on screen and things get confusing!

1. The initial choice needs to be made between

left >right (for a sequence of shots made while 'panning' towards the right)

right >left.

down >up.

up >down.

e.g. if 'left >right' is selected:-

2. After the first shot has been taken, a preview is displayed without the grid.
- the 1st shot can be cancelled with 'retake', or saved for the sequence with 'next'.

3. If 'next' was selected a 'ghost', of what was in the right hand panel of the 1st image, will be shown on the left as an overlay in the LCD display, together with the grid.

The camera can now be panned to the right to try to align the ghost of the right part of the 1st shot with the left side of the new view. The 2nd shot can now be taken,

The combined image is shown, without the grid, which may or may not show good alignment of the 1st and 2nd images - so you can choose to 'retake' the 2nd image, or choose 'next' again.

If you choose 'next', it's back to no.3, above

....and so on until you choose exit, when the sequence can be transfered to PC for stitching with an image editing program.

Hope that helps!