Dear FixYa Customers Concerning HIGH END TV Repair especially REAR PROJECTION TV ,
I've had it with all the TV TECHS trying desperately to fix a lot of different HIGH END REAR PROJECTION and other HIGH END TV SYSTEMS!
Don't you all get it .......
THESE ARE SOME OF THE LARGEST MOST SOPHISTICATED COMPANIES IN THE WORLD AND I'D BET A LOT OF THEM GOT TOGETHER OR JUST DECIDED INDIVIDUALLY THAT TV SYSTEMS HAVE BEEN PERFECTED SO IF THEY'RE GOING TO SELL MORE IN THE FUTURE THE ONES THEY'VE SOLD MUST DIE OR COST ALMOST AS MUCH TO FIX AS TO BUY A NEWER IMPROVED ONE!
HAS ANYONE EVER SEEN A TV LAST MORE THAN 10 YEARS IN THE LAST DECADE? IF YOU HAVE I'D SURE LIKE A LIST OF THE MANUFACTURERS TO HELP ME SOLVE THIS PROBLEM! WE ALL NEED TO START TAKING PRIDE IN CREATING THINGS THAT DON'T BREAK AND STOP WORRYING BECAUSE THE NEW THINGS WE WILL CREATE WILL MAKE US BUY THEM ANYWAY UNLESS WE CAN'T AFFORD THEM BUT THEN AT LEAST WE WOULD STILL HAVE OUR PRIDE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP FROM BUILDING THINGS THAT DON'T BREAK!
I recommend buying the newest latest model if you can afford it or buying a cheap set while waiting for the price of the high end tvs to go down!
jackiaria 
Know this won't FixYa but please rate me anyway!!!!
. SHUT DOWN CAN BE INTERMITTENT OR AT POWER ON. CHECK FOR LEAKEY OR SHORTED Q570 PART # 260P560040 ON THE MAIN PCB
Ok a hard reset would be done by unplugging your tv set from the wall for about 4 hours after 4 hours plug it back on and turn it on,this not the problem that your tv set is having but you can try it,the problem would be coming from one of the pico fuses that are in the power supplycircuit,they look like resistors with a little bit of soldering experience you can change them it out,what i would suggest is to aquire the service manual for your tv set on the links below this will help you on where are the pico fuses and the rest of the fuses inside your tv set,remember to check the pico fuses for contunity one of them is causing this problem with your tv set,hope this helps.
http://www.servicemanuals.net/service.aspx
https://www.completeservicemanuals.com/index.php?ccUser=
Just click this site for more information;
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http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=H56&q=mitsubishi+vs-5051+capacitors+info&start=10&sa=N
Regards:
Thanks for Using Fixya - Im glad you could sort through all the BS and get the help you needed!!
Make sure your video input source is on and feeding power, and that the Mits is sourcing to that port.
This tv sounds as if the backlight has gone out on you just get the backlight replaced if the tv wont turn on if the light flashes green for 10-15sec it is overheated and possibly burned out the backlight if its in a enclosed space
Hi idneb
I think you will need to check the main power supply in the set. Most likely the regulator is bad because of bad capacitors (usually electrolytic over 100V . If you do not have any solid state printed circuit board repair experience, the best advice I can offer would be to call in a pro to assist you in this repair.
Thanks for using fixya. Good Luck.
HERE IS A LINK TO YOUR SERVICE MANUAL AND SCHEMATICS!
http://www.servicemanuals.net/ServiceManual/MITSUBISHI/vs5051/pos1/results.aspx
try changing the connection from being via HDMI to component video cable and analog audio cables if you can. (switch from coax cable to rca jacks)
I don't know what capacitor number you have. Here is a link to the printout of your capacitors and the codes and paramaters. Just copy and paste in your browser. If not right one by chance then let me know and I will find another one.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashee...
www.completeservicemanuals.com/mitsubishi/crt-projection-television/vs-5041-service-manual/prod_484.html
ALL MITSUBISHI SETS WITH FLYBACK LINES /VARYING CONTRAST OR BRILLIANCE CHECK CRT BASE PINS FOR DRY JOINTS FIRST.
ALL MITSUBISHI SETS- DRY JOINTS ARE VERY COMMON ALMOST EVERYWHERE
ALL MITSUBISHI SETS -DRIED OUT ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS ARE COMMON EVERYWHERE
21M1TX LOUD WHISTLE FROM THE CHOPPER TX- REPLACE Q902.
25A2STX INTERMITTENT SOUND & PICTURE - IF MODULE IS RIDDLED WITH DRY JOINTS.
25M5 MOD KIT AVAILABLE FOR LINE/POWER UPGRADES /REPAIRS
25M5 SERIES CHOPTR/LOPTR AVM5 KIT
BB1201B NO SYNC COIL L501 + PRE-SET VR401.
BD28S SEE VESTEL 11AK19 CHASSIS FAULTS
BD28S NARROW PICTURE POOR E-W - CAPACITOR C630 WAS FOUND TO BE OPEN CIRCUIT.
BDS1451 VESTEL 11AK20SE STANDBY LED LIT RED. PSU IS OK LOPTR & LOPTX.
BDS1451UK 11AK20-S STBY IC501 (ST92195B1B1) MICRO 4MHZ XTAL, BDS28WS SEE VESTEL11AK19.
BDS28WS, 11AK19 DEAD LOPTR, EW FET,LED FLASHED 150V HT LOW AT 100V- CHECK D807 IN PSU.
BDS32W/S DEAD EW FET S/C. (0NG 20T
BLACK DIAMOND VESTEL 11AK19.
BLANK RASTER X24C04P EEPROM IC702 KIT RK216G SEME.
C14M7B DAEWOO, FIELD,I1301,TDA8374.<
C14MS1(EE2) LINE SHIFT R571(560R).
C21A3STX EURO12 NO TEXT + LEFT SHIFT EEPROM IC702... LOST PROGRAM.
C2857B DEAD- LED FLASHING- CHECK TRANSISTOR Q501. C28C7B SEE EE3 CHASSIS.<
C28C7B EE3 LOPTR(S2055N)+NO LINE DRIVE TO Q551 JC501-R FROM IC202PIN12.
C28C7B EE3 S2055N LOPTR Q501, JC501-R
CT 2528/FINLUX 9000 DEAD REPLACE CAPACITOR C689 (2200 UF)
CT1447 EURO 3 CHASSIS.
CT1447BM EURO3 DEAD- TWO 2K2 3W RESISTORS R916 & R915.
CT14M1BM DEAD HT WAS LOW AT (20V). IC901 (STR44115) REPLACED.
CT14MS1
CT14MS1 EE2 PICTURE SHIFTED TO LEFT- REPLACE RESISTOR R571 560 1W.
CT14MS1BM INTERMITTENT FIELD JITTER- R461 DRY JOINTED.
CT14MS1BM LINE SHIFT FAULTS- FIRST CHECK R571.
CT14MS1BMEE2 LHS PICTURE SHIFT R571 560 1W.
CT14MS1TX NO TUNE/STORE EEPROM - X24C04P.
CT14MS1TX NO TUNE/STORE- X24CO4P EEPROM CHIP IC702.
CT14MV1 DEAD THE HT IS OK- IC7331 (TL431CLP)
CT14MV1 LOW HEIGHT - IC7331(TL431CLP)
CT14MV1 PHILIPS CHASSIS.
CT14MV1B COMBI DEAD.D6313-6 R3337(2R2) FET TR7330 D6332 D6337 MC44603 R3338 39
CT14MV1B TV/VCR BRIDGE+2R+FET CHOOPER+D6332+D6337+MC44603+R3338(39R).
CT1525TX DEAD STUCK IN STANDBY LOP TRANSISTOR S/C (2SD1877) & STR54041 CHIP FAULTY.
CT1535 EURO7 Q552(2DS1877) HOT+LOPTX+STR54041.
CT15M2T EURO7
CT15M2TX EURO7 STUCK IN STANDBY - STR54041 FAULTY.
CT15M2TX EURO 7 NOISY CHOPTX TX STR54041 H/SINK EARTH PINS.
CT15M2TX EURO7
CT15M2TX WARM NO SYNC MAB8461-W115 MICRO CHIP IC7704
CT15M2X DEAD-REPLACE LOP TRANSISTOR 2SD1877 +STR54041 CHIP.
CT15MS1TX EE2 DEAD X24C04 EEPROM IC702.
CT15MS1TX EE2 DEAD LED ORANGE/GREEN X24C04 EEPROM.
CT180B LOW HT 105VN. R909 (220R 10W)& Q905 (2SC620).
CT1902 BLANK RASTER/NO SOUND/FIELD COLLAPSE. 0R5 2W R560
CT1905BM STUCK IN STANDBY NO LINE DRIVE- CHECK Q551+R556+ C501 (100UF 25V) ON
ON THE SIGNALS PCB.
CT1SMS1TX EE2
CT2023B DEAD - CHECK DIODE D501.
CT2023B DEAD NO LINE DRIVE- D501 LEAKY IN STARTUP FEED.
CT2101TX HIGH HT 115VN C918 & C915 BOTH 33UF.
CT2101TX STANDBY /DEAD C910+C911 (1UF 50V).
CT2101TX STUCK IN STANDBY- C910 AND C911, WHICH ARE BOTH 1UF 50V ELECTROLYTICS.
CT2117TX TEXT SYNC SAA5241 VC77016MHZ CRYSTAL X7702
CT2124 EURO 4
CT2125TX AFTER EEPROM SKIPS CHANNEL ENTER CHANNEL IDENT BBC1.
CT2125TX AMNESIA EEPROM,RETUNING YOU MUST ENTER CHANNEL ID,BBC1,ELSE WILL SKIP
CT2125TX NO MEMORY -30V WAS LOW C962 WAS O/C.
CT2125TX EURO 10 SEVERE PATTERNING-REPLACE C956.
CT2125TX EURO10 PATTERNING ON PICTURE- REPLACE C952 & C956.
CT2125TX NO NORMAL STORE- REPLACE CAPACITOR C962.
CT2125TX NO PICTURE OSD OK Z951 630MA .
CT2125TX NO PIC OSD OK, Z951, A 630MA-CIRCUIT PROTECTOR ON THE PSU,
CT2125TX TUNING/STORE LOW -30V C962 LEAKY.
CT2131 EURO 4
CT2132 EURO 4
CT2141 EURO 4
CT2141BM INT FADING PICTURE WAS LOSS OF HEATER CRT BASE PCB.
CT2142 EURO 4
CT2142BM EURO4 STBY EEPROM LOW -31V C962(10UF50V).
CT2142TX LOPTX=334B08107=HR7446.
CT2144 EURO 4
CT2145 EURO DEAD STR54041
CT2145BM EURO 6
CT2145BM EURO6 NO COLOR TDA3565+LO601
CT2145BM NO COLOR - REPLACE THE TDA3565 CHIP.
CT2146 EURO 6.
CT2146 EURO 6 INT PATTERN C920 (470UF 25V).
CT2146 EURO6 PICTURE PATTERNING ON BACKGROUND- C920 (470UF 25V).
CT2146TX DEAD BRIDGE+2AT+2SD1878 LOPTR CAUSE STR54041 INT HI HT.
CT2146TX EURO 6 EURO 4
CT2146TX EURO 6 DEAD INT C709 10UF50V+Z901 1A6.
CT2146TX EURO 6 DEAD LOW STANDBY 5V C709 (10UF 50V).+Z901+LINE DRIVER TX DRY JOINTS .
CT2146TX EURO 6 NO LINE DRIVE- DRIVER TX PINS DRY.
CT2146TX EURO6 NO LINE DRIVE, REMOVE GLUE NEAR FIELD OP CHIP.
CT2153 PATTERNING FROM COLD MOD KIT IS AVAILABLE MIT 04.
CT2153/5, 2553/5 AND 2965 GHOSTING, RINGING TUNER/VIF PACK.
CT2153STX EURO 4Z INT LUMINANCE, TDA4565
CT2153STX EURO4Z MEMORY LOSS C962 (100UF).
CT2153STX EURO4Z COLD FLASHES , RGB PANEL GLUE.
CT2153STX(EURO 4Z) INT LUMINANCE TDA4563.
CT2154 EURO 4
CT2154TX
CT2154TX EURO 4 NO - 30V SUPPLY TO THE EEPROM-STANDBY TRANSFORMER T951.
CT2154TX EURO4 DEAD CHOPTX TX PRIMARY 5-6.
CT2154TX EURO4 NO STORE NO -30V FROM TX T951.
CT2155 PATTERNING ON PICTURE=CURE REPLACE (470UF 25V) ELECTROLYTIC CAP (C920).
CT2155 HUM BARS- C920 (470UF 25V).
CT2155 PATTERNING WHEN COLD FIT MOD KIT MIT04
CT2155 STX EURO 4Z INTERMITTENT NO SOUND Q706, JA101QR
CT21553STX NO TELETEXT- REPLACE CAPACITOR C923 (100UF 16V) IN THE 5V REGULATOR CIRCUIT.
CT2155STX COLD POOR COLOR/WIDTH/HEIGHT C908 FAULTY (UNDER PLASTIC COVER).
CT21A2 EURO12 CHASSIS.
CT21A2LS EURO12 CHASSIS.
CT21A2S EURO12 CHASSSIS.
CT21A2ST EURO12 CHASSIS.
CT21A2STX EURO12 FIELD /HIGH HT 120VN, IC451+ C452 (220UF 35V) C905 + C906 + C909 +C920 (100UF 35V).
CT21A2STX EURO12 FIELD CHIP IC451+C452+C906 HT=122 AT TP91.
CT21A2STX EURO12 FIELD COLLAPSE TDA8178S O/P CHIP+C956(1000UF 35V)+C452(220UF 35V).
CT21A2STX EURO12 FIELD O/P CHIP IC451+C452(220UF35V).
CT21A2STX EURO12 HIGH HT (122V) REPLACE C905 (470UF 35V)+C906+ (47/50)+C909+C920.
CT21A2STX EURO12 HIGH HT 120VN C906 (47UF 50V)+C909 (2U2F 50V)+D907/8 3VZD.
CT21A2STX EURO12 HIGH HT C805+C906+C909+C902 (NORMALLY HT=122 AT TP91).
CT21A2STX EURO12 TUNING WONT STOP- ALL IF CAPS WILL NEED REPLACING.
CT21A2STX EURO12 SLOW STARTUP- C906 (47UF 50V).
CT21A2STX EURO12 SNOW AFTER SET WARMS UP- 4 MHZ XTAL PINS.
CT21A2STX EURO12 SNOW- 4MZH CRYSTAL IN TUNER PRESCALER
CT21A2STX EURP12 POOR SYNC 12VN D958(IN4148) ACROSS IC951.
CT21A2STX FIELD CHIP TDA8178S MOD KIT (TDA8171+0.22UF+1R5)
CT21A2STX LOPTR CAUSE C905/906/909/920.
CT21A2STX, LOPTR 2SD1877. Q522 C905 470UF, 35V, C906 47UF, 50V, C909 2.2UF, 50V, C920 100UF,
CT21A3ST A3
CT21A3STX EURO12 FIELD COLLAPSE- FIELD CHIP TDA8178S & R976 (0R82)
CT21A3STX EURO12 HIGH HT 122VN,C906(47UF 63V)
CT21A3STX EURO12 LINE SHIFT NO TELETEXT EEPROM IC 702.
CT21A3STX INT SOUND MUTING. JC501Q TRANSISTOR Q1A1 ON THE DET PCB.PART NO 260P543050.
CT21A3STX NO TEXT, EEPROM CHIP. IC702-KIT CONTAINS THE EEPROM,
CT21A5 E14FS
CT21A5STX E14FS
CT21A5STX E14FS DEAD T2AH DEGAUSS POSISTOR
CT21A5STX EURO14SF BRIGHTNESS ALTERS C593 (22UF 350V).
CT21A5STX STUCK IN STANDBY - REPLACE /CHECK IC951.
CT21ASTX EURO12
CT21ASTX EURO12 FIELD COLLAPSE. TDA8178S C956 1,000UF, 35V, C452 220IUF, 35V,
CT21ASTX EURO12 HI HT C906 47UF50V, C909, 2.2UF50V TWO 3V ZENER D907/D908 RD3.0FB1.
CT21ASTX EURO12 FIELD COLLAPSE TDA8178S (TDA8178FS= WONT WORK).
CT21ASTX EURO12 FIELD COLLAPSE TDA8178S NO FS
CT21ASTX EURO12 FIELD O/P MOD KIT H27P014020.
CT21ASTX VARIOUS FIELD FAULTS TDA8178S MOD KIT AVAILABLE WVE E4+.
CT21AV1B AV1
CT21AV1B EE3, DEAD GREEN LED LIT C702 (10UF)+C955 (3300UF16V)+R702 (1K)+R213 (1K)+R214 (1K)
CT21AV1BD EE3 WARM NO PICTURE/SOUND REPLACE IC951(TDA8137)
CT21M1 M1 EURO 10
CT21M1BM M1 EURO 10
CT21M1BM STANDBY NO 12V 4MZH CRYSTAL CF701, FROM PINS 28/29 OF IC 701,
CT21M1LM M1 EURO 10
CT21M1TX COLD NO SOUND/POOR LINE SYNC REPLACE C905( 470UF 25V).
CT21M1TX PATTERNING WEIRD PATTERNS - REPLACE C905 (470UF 25V).
CT21M1TX EURO10 POOR LINE LOCK-REPLACE CAPACITORS C905 & C906
CT21M1TX NO SOUND- Q952 2SA950 22V REGULATOR
CT21M1TX SURGE/STBY D905 R905 TEA2261 OR OPTO-ISOLATOR PC951
CT21M2
CT21M2TX EURO14 BLANK RASTER EEPROM IC702 5VPIN8 PULSES PINS5/6.
CT21M2TX EURO14 LED RED/GREEN NO PIC. EEPROM CHIP IC702
CT21M2TX REPROG EEPROM SEL CHAN PRESS PRESET BLUE BAR CHANGE TO YELL BY PRESSING CHAN UP/DWN THEN VOL+/-.
CT21M3TX EURO14 SNOW BLANK NO OSD/NO TUNING Q707/Q708 DTA124ES.
CT21M3TX EURO14 SNOWY , WOULDN'T TUNE IN. Q708, TYPE DTA124ES,
CT21M3TX LOW HT JC501Q ERROR AMP Q953. PART NUMBER IS 260P543050.
CT21M5B M5
CT21M5BT DEAD- CHOPPER TRANSISTOR Q901+R991 + IC901+D909+C914+Q552+LOPTX.
CT21M5BT DEAD, Q901 + R991+ IC901+ D909 + C914 (47UF 25V).& LOP TRANSISTOR Q552.
CT21M5BT EE4 CHASSIS
CT21M5BT EE4 DEAD OPTO-ISOLATOR PC951.
CT21M5BT EE4 INTERMITTENT DEAD- OPTO-ISOLATOR PC951
CT21M5BT EE4 LED THEN DEAD - THE TEA5101B CHIP WAS THE CULPRIT.
CT21M5BT EE4 NO PICTURE INTERMITTENT (SOUND OK) TEA5101B FAULTY ON CRT BASE PCB.
CT21M5BT EE4GOES TO STANDBY - FAULTY TEA 5101B RGB OUTPUT CHIP IC 660 ON THE CRT'S BASE PANEL
CT21M5BT EE4 SURGE ON/OFF OPTOISO PINS/PCB.
CT21M5E SERVICE MODE PRESS S701(ON PCB)AND BUTTON 9(IN 5ECS).STORE'0'.EXIT: STBY.
CT2206
CT2206BX DEAD 2A FUSE F901,Q991 2SC1114 MB1FEW MODULATOR DIODE D579, 2SC2073 EW Q491.
CT2217 FIELD TOP FOLDOVER REPLACE CAPACITOR C410 (22UF 160V).
CT2217TX DEAD R700 2R2 SN2976N SAA5010
CT2223B FIELD BOUNCE- REPLACE C412 AND C413 (330UF).
CT2227 FIELD COLLAPSE CAP (330UF 50V) .
CT2227BM DEAD LINE DRIVER TX PINS OR SAFETY RESISTOR SERIES REMOTE SUPPLY
CT2227BM FIELD COLLAPSE 330UF C412 & C413,
CT2227BM FIELD COLLAPSE 330UF 50V CAPS C412/3 & C403 (470UF 16V) .
CT2227BM FIELD COLLAPSE C412 (330UF)+C413.
CT2227BM FIELD COLLAPSE C412/3 C403(470UF16V).
CT2227BM NO SOUND R317
CT2227M DEAD/STANDBY CHECK RESISTOR R7A0(1R2) ON REMOTE PANEL.
CT2227M STANDBY/DEAD NO RELAY 1R2 R7A0 ON THE REMOTE PANEL.
CT2517 EURO 1
CT2525 VARIOUS FAULTS- C956 + C959+ C962 & C964 REPLACE THEM ALL THESE CAPS ARE NOTORIOUS.
CT2525 DEAD CHOPTR(2SD1887)+D909(3VZEN)+R910+R902(4R7) CAUSE PINS.
CT2525 EURO 10
CT2525 EURO10 INTERMITTENT DEAD- C905 (220UF)+ C906( 47UF) & C912 (4.7UF).
CT2525 EURO10 POOR STARTUP REPLACE C905/C906&C912.
CT2525 FUSE+4R7+CHOPTR(2SD1887)+D909(3V ZENNER)+TEA2164+C906.
CT2525 INT DEAD C906 47UF, 25V AND C912 4.7UF, 50V
CT2525 INTERMITTENT STARTUP OR DEAD REPLACE ALL DRIED OUT CAPS C906 (47UF 25V)+ C905 (220UF 25V)+C912 (4U7F 50V).
CT2525 MANY ODD SYMPTOMS REPLACE ALL PSU ELECTROLYTICS. C956+C959+C962+C964 REPLACE THEM ALL.
here is the link for more of mitsbishi
http://www.tv.quuq.org/index.php?pid=37
could be bad ballast, bad color wheel, or lamp/lamp timer. or lamp door.
Check to see if your light bulb is lighting up. See if the bulb is good or not. Also, if you can, check to see if there is power coming out of the ballast with a voltmeter.
The problem may also be the very common suffer from multiple dry soldered joints.
To access them all, the main board needs to be removed from the plastic chassis and checked all over.
Also, need to check the Tuner & I.F. board for same.
Should be carried out only by a qualified engineer as it involves a
fair bit of disturbance to the TV, removal of plug/socket connections
and wire looms. Done loads of them and takes about an hour to complete
properly.
This could be in several different circuits in the tv. it could even be bad connections in the power supply, but, What I personally think is that It sounds like a problem with the backlight. These aren't replaceable,
but the issue might be with the power to it. You'll have to get a
repair shop to look at it.
3 years is about the life exptency
Here is a link to a repair manual with schematics and diagrams for different parts of your tv
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?wh...
http://www.euras.com/repair_tips_1/MITSU...
or
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&c...
the part# is STK392-110 but most technicians including me replace these
with STK392-150 for higher wattage rating and reliability. And before
replacing these IC's technicians check small components called
resistors and pico fuses. They also check for loose or cold solder
connections.
sorry, that posting was for another person with your same tv.
this link is for you:
http://www.tvtechcenter.com/xcart/produc...
RC5051 Datasheet PDF IC-ON-LINE.CN-Free DataSheet Search and ...
http://www.riddledtv.com/ 2008-07-12T13:01:00Z 1.0000http://www ...
techassist - 04-2005 Mailing List Archive *************#1
×
The TV is not coming on because it has detected a problem and in in a protect mode. Since this problem appeared to clear itself before, I'd first look for bad solder connections on the board. Resolder any connections that appear grainy or have rings and try to start the set again. Post your results here. If not repaired, we'll start looking for conponent failures.
This ususally means that the screen voltage is too high adn you are
seeing the retrace lines. The only way to fix this is to turn down teh
screen control on the flyback. This will make the picture darker
though. I suspect that the CRTs are getting tired. Time for a new
HDTV set.
believe that you have 2 distinct issues with this set. First, the PIP
module probably needs to have all of the capacitors replaced. Second,
you have a high voltage problem. At this point the set is at least 15
years old. Since the components required to repair this could easily
exceed $100, is it worth it? Given that the set will require a
converter next year (2008), I would recommedn that you replace the set
with a newer one that will be compliant with digital broadcasts soon to
be the standard.
Dan
×
Http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mfg/MITSUBISHI_2.html
Here is a service manual if the other guys haven't given you yet.
Good Luck!
Eset your projection to factory defaults settigns.
reaattch all cables.check your poer supply and earhing prtoperly working.
try other power supply.if problem persist,send it to a autherised service center.
Reset your projection to factory defaults settigns.
reaattch all cables.check your poer supply and earhing prtoperly working.
try other power supply.
Reset your projection to factory defaults settigns.
reaattch all cables.check your poer supply and earhing prtoperly working.
try other power supply.
reset all settigns to factory defaults.change power supply then check .also reconnect all cable connection.
set proper resoluiton .
×
: works for 30 seconds or so then shuts off. If the power button is pressed, it might come back on. åtgärd : Have run across this type problem on numerous brands. Here is the general procedure to try on any set displaying this problem. Use isolated variac to reduce ac input to about 90vac. Monitor the ac current draw. Turn on set. It will generally run at this point. Measure output of VR IC. It should increase steadily as the ac input voltage is increased until the VR
see i found 1 comment from outside
he is telling like this "Â disconnected everything and pushed the TV out from the wall so I could access the back. I removed about 10 hex screws and removed the fiberboard back. The inside of the set was incredibly dusty, so the first thing I did was attack it with some compressed air, trying to be careful to not blow dust onto the CRT gun lenses, the mirror, or the rear projection screen.
t was pretty easy to find the solder pads for the STK392-110s, 18 pins in a row, one tilted at an odd angle. Luckily, most of the board was through-hole, but there were a smattering of surface mount components and the board was a bit flexible, so I worried that I would pop off a surface mount part. It didn't happen though. I used the soldering iron and the rubber desoldering bulb to remove the solder from the pins, then I reached behind and rocked the parts out of the holes. I had to re-heat a few of the pins to get them to release. Then I used some desoldering wick to clean up the pads.
×
Hello and welcome to FixYa!,
It sounds like the TV has a faulty Power Board or a Short Circuit around the Bulb Area!
Your best bet is to Replace the Power Board!
Hope this is your FixYa!, --P3NGYJ03
Hi , Remove the PIP board and replace C7001=4.7UF,35v and all of the smt electrolytic caps on that board. Clean the board with alcohol. For more info refer to the tv archived section of this site where many Mitsubishi & Electrohome tv's equipped with PIP boards have this problem.
Check your power supply and the transformer
There are many components that can cause the TV failing after ten fifteen minutes.
Start checking power adapter (PSU board) , that is an easy test if you are a repairman, and does not need diagrams.
Cehck also connector between power board and digital board(main board).
If the problem is not psu, then you need the service manual to follow the rest of troubleshooting diagrams, there are components on digital board, and on the small boards that control deflection, and power up Lamp/CRTs .
Do also a whack test, if tv turns off with vibration, then it is likely a cold solder joint, a broken contact, or a short to chassis.
If you are a technician all you need is the service manual, you can buy from here: Service Manual VS5051, VS5051C
You can also download a service manual for the same chassis from link below:
To download the file, please, click here ! <
Thanks,
it is difficult for me to follow your problem, as there is a little confusion with too many people trying to help, but it will be useful to know where the blown capacitor C530 was.
If TV is turning off after 10 15 mins, test also the resistors at teh base of the STK ICs on the convergence circuits, the STKs are power amps, and if one of them is defective they can cause shut down when they warm up. When the problem is on convergence you may also get picture problems.
Other circuits that can can cause shut down after some time are:
power board, always the most likely when you get this.
The small AC boards powering the CRTs (or the lamp on other models).
Other problems on main board.
I also checked on Euras system , that is a database for techs only, and sometimes sort out our problem ( EURAS)
Many common faults that cause shutdown after complete power up on VS5051 and same chassis are caused by faults related to IC700 .
I think you need to test pin 13, 15 and 55 on IC700, following instructions on service manual.
I think test is the same as below, capacitors codes may be different, IC700 is the same.
Here you find some common cause for shutdown after start on a model with same chassis. Power board and digital control board should be the same.
[TechAssist] Re: Mitsubishi
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The exact value of c-530 capacitor is
value=220pF.
and you can get the required exact capacitor at radio shack websites.
ok.
Https://www.completeservicemanuals.com/mitsubishi/crt-projection-television/vs-5041c-service-manual/prod_485.html
do not copy or paste just click the link directly here it self and the required page information will get opened.
thanks.
keep updated.
Sir,
There is a problem within the horizontal circuit. This is not likely
to be diagnosed without taking measurements inside the set. Invest in
a detailed repair estimate and report the results here. We should be
able to walk you through the actual repair.
I think backlight system malfunctioning.
anyway it is working continuasly
nuwan
CAN YOU HEAR HORIZONTAL OUTPUT TRANSFORMER HISSING SOUND.
IS THE HORIZONTAL SECTION WORKING.
nuwan.
send me the smatic diagram to this [email protected].
nuwan.
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Chak the power capacitor from ckt bord its has been licy or bed
"completeservicemanuals.com/mitsubishi/crt-projection-television/"
"vs-5041c-service-manual/prod_485.html"
less the quotes
join them together
add "https://www." less the quotes
It's problem with time out setting u need to reset all setting asa factory setting...
u need to chek voltage settings also chek that it's need to che reset setting if pleayer
it's a reset button give bottom if device or in battry case or im setting menu it's give factory setting..
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There are common problems and some repair tips here
Just browse Mitsubishi and look for no picture
http://www.tv.quuq.org/index.php?pid=37
Also repair manual and schematic can be found for similar models here
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mfg/MITSUBISHI_2.html
Good Luck
Hi there!
This is more than likely due to the small signal board losing power.. If you have a service manual for the tv, you should be able to locate it. These tv's have been known to have bad solder joints from time to time, so it may be a problem cured by simply re-soldering the regulator that provides power to the small signal board. In the mitsu ws-65513 it is a ba09fp 9 volt regulator, it may be the same in yours. The regulators can be found at mouser.com. you can find a service manual that will have detailed troubleshooting information and schematics with part numbers here for $7.99
https://www.completeservicemanuals.com/mitsubishi/crt-projection-television/vs-5041-service-manual/prod_484.html
hope this information helps, and if you have more questions, let me know!
you have www.fixya.com in front of it... try it again
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Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, a couple of idea you may want to consider:
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
sorry the link did not go through >
"https://www.completeservicemanuals.com/mitsubishi/crt-projection-television/vs-5041c-service-manual/prod_485.html" less the quotes
Your initial post "Is working fine, but after 10-15 sec. the screen came black." but does the sound continue (normal)?
If yes there is still sound, you could check the PIP board (if your version has got one). If there is, it would be the smallest board on the left side among those standing up boards. Try wiggling it and/or check for cold solder and/or the coupling capacitors.
An update would be appreciated.
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Try to unplug it for a couple minuets and then plug it back in and let me know how this works
Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcbhere is a site that will give you what your looking for i hope this helps you
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Proplem with the supply board
Check the Capacitor,, but i conclude the flash capacitor is the problem,, you cannot fix it by your self,, because you need to replace the capacitor!
these are the common problem with that situation,,Acoustic screen material allows speakers to be placed behind the screen
Relatively low cost for a motorized acoustic screen
Not practical unless the wall behind the screen is black or very dark and non-reflective
Screen surface is reasonably color neutral, although not as good as the best screens
Some loss of high frequencies, slight loss of overall volume of sound
Funky, but effective 12 volt trigger system, for having the screen drop at projector power up, and close on projector shutdown.
Comes with both infra-red, and RF remotes
100", 16:9 version retails for $1609 before discounts, which can be significant on Elite screens.
The black line you see running between the upper colors and the
lower ones, is actually the bottom structure of the Elite screen.
Therefore, the colors above the black bar, are those shining off the
Elite, and the ones below the bar, are coming off of the Carada. As you
can see from the image, each of the colors are almost identical. Using
Photshop, I looked at the actual color composition (RGB) of each of the
colors. I found overall, the Elite screen suffers a very, very slight
shift to yellow/green in several of the colors, and overall (although
the white itself measures a touch blue). The assumption here, is that
the Carada is excellent in terms of color accuracy, and the Elite not
far from the Carada's performance.
The next image is another "split screen" with the Elite on top, and
the Carada below. Since you are seeing different portions of the same
image, it's a bit hard to truly ascertain how close to identical these
two screens are. For that reason, the second image is the same frame,
shown only on the Elite. You can now see the bottom of the face, and
the tunic of our subject, on the Elite. Between the two photos, you can
now see the same lower portion of the image on each screen:
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Replacing the capacitor C530 will mostly (99%) solve the problem .
Unfortunately this is not a do it your self-er. you need a TV technician to diagnose this electronic problem!
Hi your bulbs may have gonna out you will need to replace them i would highly recommend you have a pro do it so it doesn't get mest up
Try to unplug the power first for few hours. If that didn't help, it will require you to open the TV casing and look for faulty component. Look for blown fuse and check the power supply board as well for any other visible burned components.
There is a bulb in tv. When the tv goes black does the bulb go off??
After all is said and done and u have spent or have an estimate for a $600-$800 repair bill u will be better off to replace the TV, new 42 inch LCD's are only $900, I have been through this scenario and the new TV is your best option.
u seem to know exactly what to do, since u have rejected every suggestion, good luck on the fix
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The unit needs to be addressed by a pro. Too complicated unless you are a really strong appliance electrician. Good Luck
3,260 views
Usually answered in minutes!
I already open the TV casing and look for faulty component. No any blown fuse and any
other visible burned components.
Please start give me specific data which capacitor, resistor, or transistor is responsible for that effect.
the projector is starting fine. after 5-10 sec. start coming bright, and then shutting down. My suggestion is high voltage problem, but i no have schematic. I need help from some one who have experience with this.
the bulbs are working fine too. within 10 sec. i can go to some service mode and start align the picture (RGB bulbs is working there)
Unfortunately I'm TV technician, and I need the specific information about just this mitsubishi projector
Is maybe some one who know this
mitsubishi vs-5051I found the C530 around Q501. The capacitor is broken, but i don't know the right parameter.
I got still nothing. Please some one answer me so the C530 capacitor should resolve my problem or not. if not- what else i can do?
the problem is : no have right value of this capacitor.
The capacitor looks broken. I can't read nothing there
I suspect the c530 capacitor, but i can't read his value.
I can replace it, bat first i wanna now his right value (example: 220nF, 300pF). Maybe some one have directions or schematic for mitsubishi vs-5051?
supply board ???
is integrated on motherboard. maybe some closer.
!!!!!!! lol ???
This webside does not work
http://www.fixya.com/https://www.complet...
"it's problem with time out setting u need to reset all setting asa factory setting"
Do you know how to get the factory setings?
People stop write staff like "turn off and then back on" I,m no 5 years old...
"chak the power capacitor from ckt bord its has been licy or bed"
He looks like new, even i was tested by my ohm meter. work fine
i just click for that link.
does tot work
technodeal - Your information was wrong. C530 value=33 nF not 220pF!!!! Why you give me wrong info?
I already replaced c530 (right value is 33nF), but that does not help resolve my problem. Please someone who know that Mitsubishi vs-5051 for help me out.
Ginko - thanks for that links. These works fine. I hope help me a lot.
THE HORIZONTAL SECTION WORKING FINE. Trafo is very quiet.
Thanks. This link http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mf...
do not include vs-5051, but help a little.
Ginko, You are the best. second time i have too tel You. Thanks.
Magnavox vs 5051 how to unkock parental lock
Magnavox vs 5051 need to unlock parental lock
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