Hotpoint WMA 32 broken wires on Motor?

Doing things like that seldom works, but if is is cheap, try it.

Your motor is here including new from Whirlpool. Welling electronic control motor HXGM1L.52

https://www.google.com/search?q=Welling+electronic+control+motor+HXGM1L.52

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The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

The modern fusebox contains two types of breaker; the micro circuit breaker (mcb) that replaces the old fashioned fuse and the residual current device (rcd) and which one trips indicates the type of fault.
The mcb trips in response to an overloaded circuit or short circuit and the rcd trips when current leaks from the circuit to ground.

When a washing machine does this there is a strong possibility some water has found a way to mix with the electrics. The first task will be to examine the power cord and then to remove whatever covers can be removed for a close examination of the internals looking for evidence of water...

Motor is probably defective. The only other thing that could cause the breaker to trip is a short circuit. Look for any wires that have come loose and fell off from any terminal connection points.

Either you dont have a high enough amperage breaker or the motor is going bad

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

I hate to say this but a blown fuse in that machine wouldnt trip the breaker, so if you turn the breaker on and it stays on until you start the machine the motor is probably shorted and need to be replaced

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

hi martin it sound like bad earth this could be anythink check the plug for loose wire check the socket for loose wires if check motor wire in the washer also check circuit board connections if all wires are ok you could have a faulty motor hope it helps

regards
shaun

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer isn't working or isn't getting heated up, you'll need to check the following to be sure what exactly the issue is--
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models:
• The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect.
• Shorted heating element to housing.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models:
• If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter.
• Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.


If it runs for a few minutes and then stops, then check for the following:--
• Empty dryer.
• Check motor spins freely.
• Lint buildup around drive motor.
• Low voltage present.
• Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
• Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current

It's unusual for a household RCD to go out on excess current from an appliance - the fuse in the plug top and circuit fuse/MCB in the consumer unit should provide closer protection. This leaves you with an earth fault. Earth faults aren't usually related to motor load. Watch carefully what phase of the cycle the trip happens. Does it correlate with the start of water heating? A very frequent cause of low current earth faults is water ingress into the heating element. If you can trip the RCD reliably on every cycle, running the same cycle with the element disconnected would confirm whether or not this is the cause. A.