Everthing about the range seems to be working properly, except the oven. When turned on, the burners do not produce a good flame, only one burner may be on, or it may be fluttering as if the gas is barely coming out. Both the igniters are glowing bright red. I can tap on the solenoid/valve from where the gas comes from at the bottom of the stove and affect the amount of gas for a moment. The effect resembles a plugged up gas line. Also the broiler does not get gas or starts every time, however the igniter is glowing bright red too. Sometimes it works and at times not.
I have the same problem with the oven not igniting but my broiler works fine. I switched the igniters and not my oven works but the broiler doesn't so I know it is the igniter. Thanks for the help.
A better question. If you set the self-clean oven then open the door as you press lock, what do you do when the lock locks and you have your oven door open?
Saw your posting as I had the EXACT same problem. Tried banging on the solenoid (dual safety valve) and saw the same thing--big puffs of gas came out temporarily. Was about to buy a new one, but found other posts that described this--the problem is the ignitors. They glow orange, but as they age they don't allow enough current to tell the valve to open, hence the problem--the valve has a safety that is doing its job correctly by not letting lots of gas out. Apparently very common with Viking's. I bought two new ignitors (often they fail around the same time, so save some time and shipping and just replace them both) and voila--the oven now works perfectly. I got the Electrolux 5303935066 ignitor kit off of Ebay (label on the wires is Norton model 501A 5303307577), but quite a few places will sell. Got each for ~$16, but it seemed an unusually good deal compared to other places. Much cheaper than a new dual safety valve anyway. Hope that helps!
Exact same problem, changed ignitors everything works great now
Jafro, find out what size orifices u need for your altitude. the orifices can be drilled out to the proper size, without replacing. It is not the other way though (NAT to LP), unless you plug the erifices then drill out to thr oroper I.D. Always check the manifold pressures when returning the unit to service, and adjust air shutters. Also the reg spring and adj. plate, as well as the cap must be replaced. The valve must be marked as converted and to what size orifices. Please find someone who knows the procedure to help you,as it is a very hard lesson to learn the wrong way! Be Safe
Gazman
This is gas instructions for an electric oven problem
It sounds like you may have a bad regulator. One thing you can try is lighting each of the surface burners one by one, and see if they get weaker every time you turn another one on. Also, after you light the oven try turning on the burners one by one again and seeing if it weakens or puts out the oven altogether. If the more things you turn on the weaker the flames get, then you probably have a bad or clogged regulator. Sometimes these jusyt go bad, but usually I seee this on a new install where the construction crews or installers get sawdust, debris etc in the line before they hook up the range and it gets caught in the regulator. These are usually not expensive, but can be difficult to change on some ranges. Good luck!
SOURCE: Viking Range
I'm having a similar problem. I don't know the exact fix yet, I'm just starting to research. Check this link: http://www.applianceguru.com/forum1/1916.html
It sounds like the ignitors are suspect. This may be a weak component for Vikings. This link recommends a Maytag replacement part.
SOURCE: Viking 30" Range - Igniter works - but NO FLAME in oven or ranges
No pilot light need to be ignited. You may need a new ignitor. It might not be catching. If you pull the bottom oven plate off you can see the ignitor on the side of the burner and see if it is in its place or broken or just plain old. It is a simple fix. You can buy a universal ignitor or contact Viking and they will sell it to you. Its only two wires and can do it yourself if you are somewhat technical. Good luck.
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Everything works great excpet oven. the burners are good and the broiler even works but oven will not light. any ideas
The burners on right work fine, I have to light the ones on the left. Now my oven has stopped heating.
I have a double oven Viking Stove with an intermittent problem in which the igniter glow plugs glow orange and the gas valve is not activated. This happens in both ovens.
Could someone tell me the acceptable resistance range for an isolated igniter glow plug that is cold? I thought this would be one way to test and find out for sure the condition of the glow plugs. Thanks- Lynn
I have a double Viking oven with an intermittent problem in which the igniter glow plug is glowing orange and gas is not activated by the valve. This happens in both ovens at times.
Can someone tell me the acceptable resistance range of an igniter glow plug isolated and cold? I figure this is one way I can determine the condition of the glow plugs. Thanks-
Oven won't heat to the desired temperature. On "bake" mode the oven often won't heat at all. On "convection bake" mode, oven often heats but only to 200 degrees or so, sometimes less and then the heat gradually decreases. Broiler doesn't work at all. Burners work fine.
Only one of the oven burners come on even though both ignitors are glowing bright red. If I disconect the burner that is working the faulty burner will come on at high temp setting but will tend to flutter.
Top oven does not produce any flames. Heat escaping from lower oven has melted the control knobs.
oven will not light most of the time.
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