Hooking my amp up

Most car audio amps run default 4ohms. You can get an identical sub run it in parallel and the amp will see 4 ohms.

the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water

Hi,

Basically the wiring of the large harness corresponds to the pins like this.

Starting in the upper right hand corner and working down the right side from A12 down to A1.

1=Left rear output-red
2=Left rear output-blue
3=Right rear output-black
4=Right rear output-yellow
5=empty
6=Left front input-black
7=Left front input-yellow
8=Left rear input-orange
9=Left rear input-green
10=Amp 'ON'-blue&orange
11=empty
12=Amp sensor-black&orange

Back up to upper left hand corner on the large plug

13=Right front tweeter output-red
14=Right front tweeter output-blue
15=Left front tweet output-red
16=Left front tweeter output-blue
17=empty
18=Right front input-red
19=Right front input-white
20=Right rear input-blue
21=Right rear input-red
23=Right front sub (+) output-yellow
24=Right front sub (-) output-black

The small harness is the same above with the upper right position being pin 1 going down to pin 4 then back up to the top for pin 5 down to pin 8.

1=Memory Power-Lrg White
2=Amp Ground- Lrg Black
3=Left front sub (+)output-yellow
4=Left front sub (-) output-black
5=Left front mid (+) output-white
6=Left front mid (-) output-brown
7=Right front mid (-)output-brown
8=Right front mid (+) output-white


Hope this will help you.

Thank you

you dont want to connect both of those amplifiers together. You could run them separately to separate subs or the jl to your sub and your alpine to your front speakers. But you dont ever want to mix and match amps to the same sub. Even if you had 2 jl500/1's you wouldnt want to just hook them up together. Because they both have to be putting out the exact same amount of power. Which no 2 amps are ever exactly the same. Some companies make bridges to properly connect 2 exact amps together. I Hooked up 2 JL 1000/1's to each voice coil on a 13.5 W7 and i smoked the sub. So i definitely dont reccommend doing it unless the amps are conneccted to separate things.

I believe what your trying to do is to run 2 12" subs and some other satillite speakers? We used to do that all the time.. That is called running the amp in "mixed mono" that's where the mids & tweets are run in stereo while the subs are bridged mono. This configuration is what made Rockford Fosgate "The Bomb" back in the day. To do what you want your subs have got to be 8 ohms, NOT 4, Dual Voice Coil 4 ohms would be OK. Before i tell you how it can be done let me tell you what will happen... For one thing you will be "making" your own cross overs for the subs and mids and tweets. Forget about using the cross overs on the amp. 2ndly you will lose about 1/3 to 1/2 of the amps power because the crossovers are so inefficient, so don't even think your going to get anywhere near 1200 watts from the amp. More like 300, and that's on a good day. But if you still want to do it you go to your Radio Shack and get 1ea 6.0 mHy (milhenry) coil and two 47 mfd (microfared) capacitors, or something close to that value. So you would wire your mids & tweets normal in stereo and on the + line to each mid wire in the 47 mfd capacitor. That is your h/p crossover which will crossover your mids @ appx 130hz. Now on your subs. You want to wire them in parellel (both +s twisted together and both -s twisted together so it looks like there is just one woofer with a + and a -) Than from the L+ of the amp run a wire to the coil and from the coil to the + of the woofers, than using the R- of the amp to the -s of the woofers. Do not use any of the amps built in crossovers leave it on full. Good luck. Mark @ Sounds Good to Me Tempe, AZ

+ output from amp to + input of 4 ohm to + input of 8 ohm AND - output from amp to - input of 4 ohm to - input of 8 ohm is a parallel circuit = 2.66 ohm impedance load for amp
+ output from amp to + on 4 ohm - on 4 ohm to + on 8 ohm - on 8 ohm to - of power amp is a series circuit = 12 ohm impedance load for amp. Clear as mud??
Clear as mud?

Hello,

All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".

Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.

So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".

The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.

mike, this is a beautiful and perfect setup! if you dont have a headunit yet i know the #1 perfect one for you CLARION DRZ-9255 .http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2008/audio/source_units/cd/DRZ9255/us-en-product-pf_1172385113235.html i have owned every single piece of equipment that you have! my set up was the same exact way except i used focal utopia 33wx for my subs. but JL AUDIO are the masters at making the best subs for the money by far! i have owned every line of subs JL AUDIO has ever mad,my overall favorite. sean314 623 7054 cell

You can connect them in a series/parallel configuration. Put two of them in series and then connect the last one in parallel across the two in series. This would give you an impeadance of around 2.7 ohms. Only do this if your amp is stable at 3 ohms or less. I am not familiar with the specs of your amp. If your amp is only 4 ohm stable you can not do this.
This would also give you half the power on the two subs in series as the power for the one that is parallel. The two in series would be sharing the total output signal, where-as the one in parallel would get the entire output signal from the amp.
if you were to connect a fourth sub woofer in this configuration it could give you a 4 ohm load, by adding the fourth sub in series with the single sub that is in parallel. or in other words, yu have two sets of 2 sub woofers each in series. That gives you two 8 ohm loads (two 4 ohm subs in series is 8 ohms). Then you take the two sets of subs and parallel them (two 8 ohm loads in parallel equals 4 ohms).

If i had a picture to show you it would make sense, two subs in series that are in parallel with two subs in series.

Sounds like the output transistors on the amp are blown. Were you slammin when it stopped or how did you find out it stopped working. It could be the sub failed then caused the ap to go which is why you get a little something from the JL.