20 Most Recent Jl Audio 500/5 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

U can replace the fuse but they usually do not just go out - they do so when there is an internal problem causing excessive current flow. Get 2 - if it blows again that amp needs to be serviced.

there is a hole in the fire wall i ran my power cable through the firewall the is a hole behind the cd player down low if u look behind the engine u will c a rubber piece take this off put a hole in it nd run ur wire through it into ur car hpe this helprd

Sure. Specs are listed below. I think it's designed for regular 2-channel input, isn't it?



Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm(11V-14.5V)

Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

THD at Rated Power: <0.03% @ 4 ohm (F&R), <0.05% @ 4 ohm (Sub)

S/N Ratio (F&R): >108.5 dB below rated power S/N Ratio (Sub): >95 dB below rated power

Frequency Response (front and rear): 5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB)

Frequency Response (sub channel): 5 Hz-500 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor (front and rear): >200 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Damping Factor (sub channel): >500 @ 4 ohm/50 Hz

Input Range: switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS

Differential-Balanced Input Topology: (3 pairs of inputs)

Front Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope BP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Rear Crossover: fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable- slope HP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Sub Crossover: fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope LP (12 or 24 dB per octave)

Preamp Output: 2-channel (full-range or LP)

Bass EQ: Variable boost up to 15db

Infrasonic Filter: defeatable 24dB/octave at 30 Hz

Left minus Right Ambience Circuit: ambient effect for rear channels

Front and rear speaker output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

Dual mono subwoofer output connections: accept up to 8ga. wire

+12V and Ground connections: accept up to 4ga. Wire

Dimensions: 19.7"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H

Check to see if speaker is blown use another speaker. If it is not blown then your amp has a blown channel local audio shops may know of where to find repairs for your amp. hope this helps.

are the sub speakers ok? if ok then u have a problem with the Amp and the output IC's will have to be checked there cud be a problem with the input card in the amp.

The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.

It is probably in the "protect" mode. When this happens, the amp will have power going to it and seem to be turned on, but no sound. Many amplifiers have a LED that is normally red and it lights up when in the protect mode. Check all the LED's on the amp and see if one of them is for the protect mode.

When an amplifier goes into protect there are usually only 2 reasons for it.

1. A bad speaker

2. A channel blown inside the amp.

Disconnect the speakers to the amplifier and see if it makes the amp come out of protect mode. If the amp has an LED to indicate when it is in the protect mode, this LED will shut off, and sometimes they have a relay inside the amp that you will hear click. If you hear the click sound form inside the amp after you disconnect the speakers, you probably have a bad speaker. Take yours to a service center and ask them to check them for you, many shops will do this for free, I know that my shop will do it for free, so I assume that many others will also.

If the amplifier has a blown channel, you need it serviced. There is no quick fix for a blown channel. If you have a multimeter I can tell you how to check some of the components inside to verify if it has a blown channel. Let me know if you are able to do this and I will give you instructions on how to properly test the components. If you do not have a multimeter, there is really no way to figure out what components are bad. Your only choice would be to take it to a service center for repair. They can give you an estimate of what it may cost before you are committed to paying for a repair. Most car amplifiers will cost about $100 to $150 to repair a blown channel. It just depends on how much damage there is, and the rates of the service center.

I hope this is helpful, and if so a good rating would be appreciated. If you need to communicate more with me to determain what the problem is, please wait to give a rating until we are finished. That way I will not get an undeserved bad rating. By the way, the only rating that is good (meaning that it doesn't lower my over-all rating) is a FixYa! rating. The "Helpful" and lower just bring my rating down. After all, the only reason for offering this free help, is to get a good rating.

Dave

is there any sound?

Assuming that you've confirmed that the speaker is in good working order and that the wiring isn't shorted in any way...

There are separate power supplies for the high and low amplifiers. It's possible that the one for the sub output has failed. If that's the case, the output transistors probably failed and that's what damaged the supply.

Generally, I'm willing to help people repair their amps but this is a large, complex amplifier and it should be repaired by a qualified technician.

The sounds you are hearing are usually due to one of two things:

1. The RCA preamp cables between the head unit and amp are either run too close to the +12V line or the connectors are touching a metal object.
2. The ground connection is too long or not as clean/solid as it should be.

To fix problem #1, just make sure the RCA lines are on one side of the vehicle and the power is on the other.

To fix problem #2, make sure your ground connection to your amp is as short as possible (ideally <2ft) and is tied to a clean (ie no dirt, paint, grease) point on the chassis.

If the issue still exists, search the web for a ground loop isolator.

you will have to carry it to fix becous u burn one of the channel

Specs say it depends on the impedance of the speakers. https://www.jlaudio.com/products/jd250-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98360 https://www.google.com/search?q=jl+250%2F1+amp.+Wiring+diagram ..

sounds like the amps not rated for the resistance tha subs have it running at....are they a dual 2 or dual 4 ohm?is the amp rated for 1ohm? sounds like amps going into protect mode

Sounds like you either shorted something out or overloaded the amp. Is there any odor coming from it? If so It will need to be repaired or replaced. What did you have connected to it and how was it wired?

You will need to open it up to see if anything damaged. That does not look good at all from the outside.

In your world, what does best results mean to you. how are the hifonics mounted? open air, closed box, vented box (optimized to what freq)? trunk or inside vehicle? all these variations weigh heavily on your configuration. As does what 'best results" means to you.