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Posted on Sep 17, 2011
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LER6848AW1 whirlpool supreme dryer will not heat at all. All the thurmastats have the proper readings. What do I do now that I've tested them? I have already installed a new element thinking that was the problem.

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Curtis Sewell

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  • Whirlpool Master 7,482 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2011
Curtis Sewell
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Joined: Sep 25, 2009
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Hi istine43...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. Then try to start the dryer and check for heat.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Related Questions:

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1answer

Dryer not drying

another user's Q&A for the same issue try that or call may tag, they are supper helpful

Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

8574d88.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

d5b5af3.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
77d6bd4.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

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    Dryer runs but does not heat.

    Hi.

    Check the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance.You can replace the fuse straight away, or you can first test it using a multimeter set on Ohms. If the multimeter reads Ohms infinity when you touch the fuse contacts with the probes, then the fuse is gone. A good fuse will read zero or low impedance.

    If the fuse is OK, then you can have a defective thermostat.
    In the same way you test the thermostats, thermistors or cutoff located in the heating group, near to fan and element. If they are OK, then they will be conductive at room temperature and will read zero Ohms. If they are bad they read open (infinity). You need to disconnect the part's contact to test properly.

    The rest depends if the dryer is electric or gas.


    On electric dryers you test the heating element. The heating element is tested in the same way. Set multimeter on impedance, disconnect element, and touch contacts with multimeter probes. If it reads open, then element is gone. A good element reading depends on the specific model. Most washer-dryers, including Whirlpool and Maytag read between 10 and 20 Ohms.


    With gas appliances you need to test the ignitor, then coils and then the flame sensor. The ignitor is the most common cause for the problem. Heating coils problems are also common. The flame sensor does not fail very often.

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