Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts. MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER. to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

This should clear it up. Pressing cubed or crushed will turn it on.

Raise the level at the front to a point that the doors will shut closed

probly the evaporator coil in fridge all frozen up you need to pull all the back out inside the fridge section and defrost with air drier

without checking equipment you can only assume things that may go wrong...1st..try fully defrosting complete unit,clean all vent/drain holes then switch back on and let unit do its thing for 24 hours.then check temperatures are minus 18-20c for freezer and plus 2-5c for fridge (approx)unless you have electrical meters to check, this is just about all you can do..

Alarm tells you about a problem. Does it give you a fault code? Is it cold in the freezer? Please check if there is build up of ice in the freezer rear wall. Check the evaporator fan motor.

If you have a multi-meter that you can check resistance on you can check the compressor and make sure the windings are not shorted. Remove the relay on the compress , after you unplug it of course. Set the mulit-meter on the ohm Rx1 is good. Check between each pin if you get more that 10 ohms then the compressor is fried. a good reading is around 5 to 6 ohm. If below the 10 ohm but higher then the compressor is ok but getting ready to short out. I hope I have helped you. Have a great day.

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The means the temperature is higher then the set temp. Check the door and set the temp higher

check ur cold control thermostat. ur defrost teriminator.

I had the exact same problem and got sick and tired of it. I contacted the Consumer Product Safety Commision and they came out and photographed my refrigerator and asked questions about the fridge. If everyone who is having trouble would write the commission we might be able to get the fridge recalled. Even if you repaired it already, they want to know the problem and what you did about it. the web site is: www.cpsc.gov. Everyone please help out. The more people we get to respond the better. ThanksZFH3I10

By your question, you are saying you are not receiving water from the water dispenser. Make sure the electrical connector you disconnected when making the ice maker repair is securely re-seated. If you removed the door to make this repair, there is also a connector at the top of the door make sure it is also seated. The only other connection for water or ice delivery is at the water inlet at bottom rear of fridge. There are two relays at the water inlet, one for water, one for ice. If these were disturbed recheck that they were reconnected. Of course these checks should be performed with the power cord disconnected to prevent shock. Once all is checked, plug fridge back in. When dispensing water you should hear a solid clunk as the relay engages. As for the ice dispenser you will only hear the clunk as it requires water to fill the tray. Just remember to allow for two complete cycles (fill - freeze - dump) before receiving full cubes. Oh, by all means don't forget to make sure the Ice bucket full lever (Usually a thick wire) running the length of the bucket Is in the down (empty) position. If it is up, this turns off the ice maker indicating the bucket is full. New ice maker units usually come packaged with the (bailer wire) in the up (off) position. Hope this info helps!

Well, it's not an error code... Have you tried unplugging it for about 5 minutes and then plugging it back in?

Since it is loud noise when you are getting water. It could only be at the solenoid. The water is under pressure from the source, the solenoid is much like an electrical faucet. There is a screen to catch debris at the input of the solenoid from the water source. I would check there first. small particles can make a lot of noise when in a turbulence area in front of that screen. You would only hear noise as water is drawn through that area. And since there is nowhere for them to go, they will stay there until removed.

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Lift the ice level bar to the up position, the bucket should easily slide back in place. Make sure to drop the ice level bar back into down position to allow for ice to be made.

Lift the ice level bar, to allow the bucket to slide back in.