my fridge keeps beeping even though the door is shut. The fridge temperature indicator keeps going up and then down. Can you please tell me what's wrong?
Posted by sues147 on
If the reset procedures don't stop the beeping and you are out of warranty, here is an easy fix:
1- (You can unplug the fridge just to be cautious, but not necessary.) Remove the control panel from the front of the fridge. Mine pulls straight out without removing any screws.
2- On the back of the control panel is a black, round device - the only thing that pokes through the back of the panel. This device is small, maybe 1/2" in diameter and the same deep. (if it won't pop off easily, remove the 4 screws to remove the back cover for easier access.)
3- You will see a thin round disk inside. This is the speaker. Remove this disk, press the black speaker cover back on and press the control panel back into the front of the fridge.
All the controls will continue to work as before, but NO BEEPS!
Posted on Feb 22, 2017
I have a Samsung refrigerator RS2630SH. Originally a loud noise was coming from the back of the refrigerator on irregular basis. Repairman did not help us while it was still under warranty, although we did provide a videotape of the noise as requested.
Now the warranty has expired, refrigerator stop making the loud noise but the dividing wall heats up to extreemely hot temp. Also the freezer side outside wall is very hot to touch. Ice maker does not work as well. Any suggestions appreciated, excluding the one "not to buy Samsung again" - we've learned the hard way. Thanks!!!
Posted by Nicolka on
I had the exact same problem and got sick and tired of it. I contacted the Consumer Product Safety Commision and they came out and photographed my refrigerator and asked questions about the fridge. If everyone who is having trouble would write the commission we might be able to get the fridge recalled. Even if you repaired it already, they want to know the problem and what you did about it. the web site is: www.cpsc.gov. Everyone please help out. The more people we get to respond the better. ThanksZFH3I10
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
Hello all, I purchased the service manual for the following Samsung refrigerator model numbers online today in pdf form: RS2544, RS2622, RS2644, RS2666, ans RS2777 The water line to the water dispenser in the freezer door is broke at the bottom of the door where it enters the hinge. Unfortunatly it looks as though I will have to buy the door assembly because it doesn't allow you to remove the water line (tube). If anyone has a model listed above and would like the service manual I would be glad to send it to you. Even though the service manual doesn't show the removal procedures for the line has anyone tried to do this with a Samsung model #RS2544SL? v/r, Scott
Posted by Scott... on
I fixed my problem with the fan not working in the refrigerator section. It ended up being the fan motor. The way I nailed it down was to temporarily switch the wires to the fan motors in the connector on the circuit card. This electrically powered the freezer fan from the refrigerator side and visa versa. The fan still worked in the freezer side (running of the refrigerator circuit) and was still inop on the refrigerator side proving that there was nothing wrong with the circuit card or possible other factors driving that circuit (other than the fan motor). I ordered and installed a new fan motor (about $50) and now everything works fine. It seems that the original problem caused the circuit card to shut down voltage to the bad fan motor that's why when you checked the voltage from the circuit card, it was nill causing you to falsely believe that it was not the fan motor. Yes, I did a resistance check on the fan motor and it was very close to being the same as the freezer motor (same part number).
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
I have a side by side samsung fridge, it was fine until now, the freezer side makes a loud noise, kinda sounds like a fan. Behind the icemaker. My husband just left me and my son with special needs and I have NO money, so I am trying to get some way to fix it myself .. If anyone can help me, please PLEASE let me know. My son is diabetic too and needs meds put in the fridge. Please hurry? thanks so much Lisa
Posted by isabellaro... on
I figured out what was going on with mine and fixed it (without needing to buy replacement parts). In the freezer section, about a third of the way down the back of the freezer was a bulged-out plastic covering, held in place by four screws. The two screws on top are covered by oval plastic that pops off easily with the help of a knife. If you take the screws out, the hard part is that the bulge/cover is still going to be frozen in place. I used an old-fashioned bottle opener/churchkey to gently pry the compartment open. When I got inside, it was easy to see what was happening--the plastic fan was hitting ice that had built up behind this cover. I chipped away all the ice, and presto--no more noise!
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
Fridge temp. light starts blinking and fridge warms up, the fridge temp won't go below 55* even after plugging and unplugging the fridge. Please help.
Posted by CDawg1313 on
Control board has gone bad....
What happens is the defrost is controlled electronically from a circuit board, when this goes bad, the freezer quits defrosting, and freezes the fans that circulate air through the fridge side of things.
To check this, unplug the entire fridge, leave the freezer open, wait for it to defrost a bit, if this causes the fridge to start cooling again when you plug it back in, then its the defrost. You should also see ice crystals on the back of the freezer just under the icemaker.
Posted on Mar 08, 2008
My SAMSUNG RF26VABWP WATER UNDER CRISPER DRAWERS CAN NOT FIND WERE IT IS COMING FROM. I HAVE WATER IN THERE EVERY DAY. I FOUND WATER ALL OVER THE FLOOR AND HAD CLEANED IT UP AND A WEEK LATER BACK AGAIN. I NOW HAVE A WOOD FLOOR TO REFINISH.
Posted by Anonymous... on
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer. If this repeatedly happens with yours, you may can prevent it by taking a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection may prevent it from freezing.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
Above model stopped making ice after return from vacation...house water shut off during vacation. Water dispenser works fine. Drained approx 2gal via water dispenser with no "air lock" or sputtering noted. Ran test cycle three times without water filling ice tray...no motor sound noted. Fill tube doesn't appear to be iced over. Any thoughts before calling a repairman?
Posted by Robert... on
press the reset button (black) on the bottom of the icemaker, the system will go through a cycle, and water will pour into the tray.
Posted on Oct 26, 2007
I have an intermittent high pitch whine or creeking noise that seems to last anywhere from 2 minutes to half an hour. This happens throughout the day, and has become louder over the past week now. I checked the back of the fridge which is where the noise is coming from, but the problem is i don't know what I'm looking at. I have been told it could be the condensor motor, and/or the fan by numerous technicians, but as always the sound stops when they come over. Any tips or answers?
Posted by sjsilver on
I had exactly the same problem. Absolutely did not need to replace the fan, simply took it apart; there are 2 screws holding the fan together, then 4 screws holding the motor together, put a bit of grease on the spindle. Done. Took about 15 minutes and the problem has never returned, it's been about 2 months since I performed the delicate "operation". I tried lubricating from the outside of the fan without taking it apart, but after taking the fan apart properly, I can see why the WD40 wouldn't make it all the way on to the spindle.
1. The fan assembly is on tabs that have to be slid backwards and then the fan assembly drops out.
2. Make sure you note which way the motor fits on, otherwise, you might end up with the motor sticking out the wrong side.
3. There's a retaining ring holding the fan to the spindle. Pull it off with pliers, comes right off... The fan will still be connected to the spindle with locktite or some sort of green glue, it just needs a bit of force but pulls straight off the spindle.
4. When putting the fan back, don't push it too far or you might break one of the plastic tabs.
5. Don't lubricate with graphite lubricant, the sound just came back ;)
Posted on May 25, 2008
The very front of the wall that separates the refrigerator and freezer is very hot to the touch. I am talking about the part that the rubber gaskets on the doors touch when you close it. I have been told that there is a "mullion heater" in most side by sides to make it seal better, but I don't think it should be that hot. Thanks, Jaye
Posted by jayewink on
They rarely use 'heaters' anymore. If there is a heater there will be somthing like a 'energy saver' option to turn it off. More likely it is a mullion loop that is part of the sealed system tubing. The harder the frige works the hotter that area will be. So if the inside temp rises so will the temperature of the mullion. Start by checking your frige and freezer temperatures with a thermometer. The freezer should be between 5-10 deg ABOVE zero and the frige should be about 35 or 36 deg. Also check that the condenser is not dirty. The condenser is the coils that are usually underneath the frige. They should be cleaned at least annually. Also while you're under there make sure the condenser fan is running. You should feel a little air movement and possibly hear it running from the front under the doors. If it's not running you'll need to find out why, but would usually be a problem with the motor. Also there was a carboard panel on the back at the bottom of the frige from the factory, that panel HAS to be in place to direct air across the condenser and not back behind the frige.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
The fridge has started making a loud screeching noise when it's running... it sounds like it must be the motor but we aren't sure.
Posted by dgallahar on
Generally, in my experience, the loud screeching is caused by one of the fan motors or fan blades. There is a fan inside the cabinet (possiblle two, one on the freezer and one on the refrigerator side). Also, there is a fan underneath the unit near the compressor (probably in the back).
If the screeching is coming from underneath then pull the unit out from the wall and remove the cardboard cover at the bottom back. Now turn the unit on and check for where the screeching is coming from.
If it is the fan blade (hitting something) or the motor, you can remove these and replace them easily. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR BEFORE TOUCHING ANYTHING UNDERNEATH THE BACK OF THE REFRIGERATOR.)
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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