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Hayward In Line Chlorinator 9 Lb. Capacity for 2" Plumbing Questions & Answers
My Hayward CL-200 is leaking from the lid. I
if its expanded it is no good, check for any cracks or oxidation...(rubbing it makes your fingers black) ... as long as your lid is not itself cracked this is certain to be the cause
My Hayward CL200 chlorinator is eating up 3 inch tabs
This can be very trickey. I've been it the busniess for thirty years and changeing the valve out confused me and had me pulling my balding hairs out. then when I was done I thought what was all the hub bub about. If you go out and get areplacement valve it will come with some very confuseing directions. What all this boiles down to is there is a snap ring of sorts behind the dial that will get pulled out like a string on a laundry bag only it is made of plastic that has always lived with chloriene an will be brittle, so be careful. It will come out a very small slot at the bottom of and behind the dial.. If you break it it will be a real pain to get out and that is all the help I can give you on that. But once you do it once you will say what was all the hub bub about. You will want your neighbors to get one so you can show off. The gut on your valve is the Acilies Heal on this chlorinator and may be needed to be changed every year or two but other than that it is in my humble oponion the best erosion feeder for house hold use. Well good luck and get the new one before you start so you can see what I have been talking about and see the pictures I can't draw here.
CL-200 lid won't lock into
Gasket in lid is swollen from chlorine gas over time, check to see if you can tuck back in and lubricate it with a silicone grease. if to swollen, replace gasket.
I opened my pool a couple of weeks ago and filled
A CL200 Involves direct injection of chlorine into the pool. Water passes through the chlorinator and goes to the pool with chlorinated. WIth the 200 (Not the 220) I've only seen a handful with problems over the years with chlorine not dissolving. If the chlorinator is not leaking, and the control valve is moving freely here's what I'd recommend.
1. Are you using a new type of tablet?
If so remove the tablets and place into a floating chlorinator.*** WARNING Wear Rubber Gloves, while handling wet tabs****
Dial it all the way open. If the tablets don't break down at this point with in a day or two, They were over compressed at the factory, potentially have to much filler (most slow tablets should be 95-99% cholroine) or the water is too cold ( below 70 deg. This should not be an issue in July) If this is the case switch brands.
If the chlorine is dissolving in the floater but not the chlorinator it could be one of the following.
1. Make sure the direction on the chlorinator is correct inlet (from Filter) to outlet (to pool)
2.. In some of the newer 200 chlorinators there is a built in check valve you can see it in the bottom of the chlorinator You will notice a threaded piece in the bottom that contains a white plastic ball the size of a pea. If this ball does not move freely to the touch, odds are the filler in your chlorine has clogged it from moving, thus preventing the flow of water from dissolving the chlorine.
You can check this by removing the chlorinator from the pool, removing the lid and pouring water directly into the top. If you do not see water passing through to the "Outlet" side of the chlorinator a clog is most likey your problem.
I've seen clogs cleared with wire coat hangers and hot water. Be forewarned that hot water being poured into a chlorinator will cause the any residual chlorine to gas off, make sure you do not have you face over the chlorinator when you add the hot water and you do so in a very well ventilated area. A straightened wire coat hanger can be used to dislodge any obstruction in the check valve and "get the ball rolling again"
Hope it helps.
My Hayward In Line Chlorinator
Nothing will remove the buildup because that is mostly the housing of the unit distorting over time with the chlorine inside. Puck quality has a bigger effect on water chemistry than the chlorinator itself though cheap imported pucks are likely to stain the inside of the chlorinator just like they often do to the pool. A new inline chlorinator is about $90 so I would assume it is better to buy a new one than to try and repair a worn out 20 year old one...just my opinion.
John
My monarch ESC16 had both red lights on today. salt
If you are sure it was cleaned correctly, it most likely will be a failed cell. Warranty thru this company has become very difficult in the past few years as the company had a falling out with its US counterpart. Good Luck.
HF code on hayward 200fdn pool heater?replaced gas valve still have same code.What now?
HF
Flame present with gas valve "OFF" error
If flame is sensed with the gas valve off the control will go into lockout. The blower will run until error condition is corrected. When corrected, control will run blower for 5 s then automatically restart after 2 minutes.
the error might be caused by a faulty flame sensor. i have heard of this happening the other way (carbon blocks sensor causing no ignite)
New XtremepowerUS 2HP In-Ground Swimming Pool Pump Variable Speed 2 Inlet 230V High Flo w/ Slip-On Fitting, i turned it on after 2 mins switch from high to low then shut off and get very hot.
All electric motors run hot and pool pumps are no different. But how hot is too hot for a pool pump? The first test is simply whether you can touch the motor or not. Under normal operating conditions, the motor end of the pump is hot enough that you can barely touch it - but not searing hot.Best to you.https://www.google.com/search?q=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&newwindow=1&sxsrf=AB5stBhpriuNhnfXLYYTg7tuS-LWwW262g%3A1690815381903&source=hp&ei=lcvHZKH_NOHi9AOquJjADw&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZMfZpVdAAi94QXZiwKfN3nArsWv-Gm1z&ved=0ahUKEwjhnd6RmrmAAxVhMX0KHSocBvgQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IkpYdHJlbWVwb3dlclVTIDJIUCBJbi1Hcm91bmQgU3dpbW1pbmcgUG9vbCBQdW1wIFZhcmlhYmxlIFNwZWVkIHJ1bm5pbmcgdGVtcEgAUABYAHAAeACQAQCYAQCgAQCqAQC4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQE&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_sMvHZMuPJPez0PEP3M2LgAY_44
How can I test if my Hayward gas heater water pressure is working??
Testing the water pressure of your Hayward gas heater is a relatively simple process. Follow these steps to check if your water pressure is working properly:
- Turn off the Gas Heater: Before performing any tests, make sure the gas heater is turned off to avoid any potential accidents or injuries.
- Check the Pressure Gauge: Locate the pressure gauge on your Hayward gas heater. It is usually located on the front panel of the unit or near the plumbing connections.
- Observe the Pressure Reading: The pressure gauge will display the current water pressure. It is typically measured in pounds per square inch (psi). The optimal water pressure for most pool heaters is usually between 15 psi to 25 psi, but it's essential to check your heater's manual for the specific recommended pressure range.
- Turn on the Pool Pump: Ensure that the pool pump is running, as it is responsible for circulating the water through the heater. The water pressure will be at its most accurate when the pool pump is operating normally.
- Monitor the Pressure: While the pool pump is running, observe the pressure gauge to see if the water pressure falls within the recommended range. If the pressure is below the minimum recommended level, it may indicate a circulation issue or a problem with the pool pump.
- Check for Leaks: While testing the water pressure, inspect the heater and the surrounding plumbing connections for any signs of leaks. Leaks can lead to reduced water pressure and affect the heater's performance.
What is a 1F code on the hayward pool heater
The code you are referring to is actually IF, not 1F. It stands for ignition failure.
If the control exceeds the maximum number of ignition retries or recycles the heater will shut down and go into lockout. Automatic reset is 60 minutes.
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