Hayward Pool & Spa - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
The threads are stripped on my Hayward sand filter drain plug.
I've had the same problem every year since I bought this house 10 years ago with my Hayward filter drain and finally MacGyvered a great solution. Went to Home Depot and bought a 1" PVC shutoff valve. The Hayward drain has an outside 1 1/4" thread. The part I got was an 'Aqua-Dynamic' 1" PVC Schedule 40(I can't find a picture of it on the internet). It is a white PVC valve with an inside thread that mates with the Hayward and a red shutoff winged knob. You need to hacksaw the red wings off the knob in order to be able to screw it onto the drain because the filter's base gets in the way. Leave the valve in the open position(especially if water is still draining with filter off) and put PVC cement on the outside of the drain thhreads and a bit on the inside of the valve and screw it on. When the glue dries(5 minutes), you now have a drain that you can open and close every year with ease(you need a pair of pliers because the wings are off the turn knob but it works great!)
I have a hayward 166 sand filter, what would cause it to put sand in the pool?
The greatest odds are that you have a broken lateral or a few broken laterals. Another less likely cause for getting sand in your pool on filter setting is a cracked/broken stand pipe. This is the vertical pipe running through the center of your filter. Open, clean, rinse, inspect, repair/replace, fill halfway with water, add correct sand weight, and close back up. Always start back up with the key assembly(star valve) in the backwash position so that you don't pump any residual sand back in the pool. After running 15-25 seconds, turn off pump and set to filter position.
How do I turn on the heat and the spa in the pool?
You must first make sure the filter pump is on and running (primed). If you have a pool spa combo, you will need to turn on the heater by making the desired temperature higher than the current temperature. This is a call for heat. You must then move the suction and return valves to **** and return to the spa. This is accomplished either by moving the valves manually or by putting it into spa mode if you have a control system. You didn't say whether or not you have a manual or automatic system.
Heater wont light,seems like all the safety
About when the sparking starts you should hear a louder snap that should open the gas valve. If you hear this and if there is gas pressure the spark gap is in the correct location it will light (you should also smell gas). On the other hand if any of these things aren't right it won't light. There is a plug on the incoming side of the valve that can be loosened to tell if there is gas available. If you leak enough gas to purge the gas line then that will eliminate a possible air problem. Make sure there is no source of ignition anywhere near during the purging process. Once the plug is closed tightly and you have waited 5 minutes you can try again. If you can't hear the valve come on then you can use a volt/ohm meter to measure the voltage going to the coil of the gas valve. When the ignitor is sparking there should be 115 VAC between these two wires. If you have further questions I should be able to answer them.
Hayward sand s166t. leaking from bottom
Are you sure it is leaking from a spot "Originating" at the bottom? Many times this is what is seen, but the water is actually traveling down the side.
If at the bottom, you either have a cracked tank, or the drain cap is loose, missing the cap gasket or it is on "Cross Threaded"?
But... most likely from experience, it leaking at the valve clamp.
Model h100id banging noise when turned on shuts off
VERY low water flow!
Or... No water flow.
This heater as all heaters do, need to have sufficient water flow thru them, or else they Bang like this.
This then creates a problem, for future banging - due to lime up!
The minimal water flow gets so Overheated, that it turns to steam! The steam knocks and pushes the heater around, then the Minerals will precipitate out of the water and forcefully attach to the inside walls of the heat exchanger! Which will then drastically reduce the inner diameter of the exchanger making a much smaller passageway for water to travel thru! This is a major problem to remain this way. It will then need to be dismantled and de-limed to increase the holes once more, and allow a proper water flow.
My husband was trying to remove 4 long bolts out
If there is any of the old bolt still protruding from the housing, you may be able to force it out using a pipewrench, or other Stud-retracting tool. There is also a tool called an 'Easy-Out'. You drill a small hole in the bolt, and and this tool goes into the hole, and as you turn it, it 'grips' the old bolt, turning it out.
If these methods fail, then;
You will have to drill them out, and re-tap the threads in the holes. If the material that the bolts go into (the body of the pump) is made from a soft metal like aluminum, then you must be very careful when drilling, you must drill very straight. A Drill Press is recommended for this. After you have drilled out the old bolts, then get the proper Tap, and make new threads in the holes. Since you are making new threads, you will probably have to go to the NEXT bigger size of bolt, but make sure there is enough room, and material in the housing to accomodate the next larger size bolt.
good luck.
At what pressure should you backwash a sand filter
The back pressure at which it's time to backwash a sand filter is about 6-8 psi above the baseline pressure of a clean filter. Just after following the procedure to backwash and rinse your filter, check the sand filter's back pressure at the time you return the pump and filter system back into filter mode. This is the baseline pressure of your clean filter. As the filter gathers particulates from the pool water, the back pressure will rise over time, as indicated on your pressure gauge. Once the pressure reaches 6-8 psi above the baseline, it's time to backwash.
Some advice: Don't assume the baseline pressure will remain the same for your sand filter. The baseline pressure will change over time and when the sand media is replaced. Typicallly baseline pressure will go up slightly over a season due to captured particles that are difficult to backwash out. Use of a filter cleaner will help remove these captured particles.
More advice: Even with the use of filter cleaners and proper backwashing, sand media will not last forever. The constant water flow and movement of particles in the sand over time shears the surface of each little sand grain. Like a river flowing over rocks, over time each sand grain surface is smoothed, and thus its effectiveness for capturing small particles is reduced with ongoing use. A typical rule of thumb is to replace the sand media +/- 5 years. Some pool owners do it more often, some less. It depends on how long your pool season is each year and how much debris the filter much extract from the pool water.
How to get the right pressure to backwash and rinse
you dont need a lot of pressure to backwash just make sure water is clean coming out then rinse for 30 sec then put back on filter do not turn valve while filter is running you will ruin multiport gasket
Not finding what you are looking for?
