Top 20 Jandy Laars Hi - E2 350,000 Btu Heater Questions & Answers

It sounds like there is a leak in your system. The condensation tube is to drain off the water because one of the byproduct of combustion is water and it condenses on the heat exchanger. Since it is only 4 years old it might be under warrantee for this issue. The problem might be simple but could be very expensive if the heat exchanger has a leak.

To answer your direct question. Yes. Installing a zinc anode will help. It should be an in line anode installed on the inlet side of the heater. They are inexpensive, and no replumbing is required. Just drill a hole, and clamp on the gasket and anode.
On another note, heres what you need to check.

Flow rate: make sure the flow rate is adequate for the heater. If its not youll have to replace your motor to the proper size. The minimum flow rate for this heater is 50 GPM (gallons per minute) and the maximum is 125 GPM. If you are below the minimum, you will be creating pressure and air inside the exchanger and premature failure can happen. If your flow is more than the mazimim, you will be quickly eroding the heat exchanger. Id say optimal flow rate for this heater is 90-100 GPM.

Gas Manifold Pressure: The type of venturi tee gas inlet that this system uses is very delicate. These heaters need to be adjusted every 6 months by a proffessional to operate properly. You need a two stage digital monometer accurate to the tenth to properly calibrate the gas/combustion air combination. If its off even a little, you will have an improper burn, and heat exchanger life will decrease. There are only a handful of companies around the county are even certified to work with these heaters. We happen to be one of them.

Your chemistry looks good, but it wouldnt hurt to lower the pH by .2-.3.

This is a very good heater because of it energy efficiency, but it is a very sensitive heater.

Hope I helped a little. If you have any more specific questions, contact me @: [email protected]

Check the condition of the heat exchanger. If it is heavily sooted from prior to adjusting gas pressure it will not vent properly. Check for downdrafting or blockage in the flue pipe if the heat exchanger is not sooted.

If the heat exchanger is sooted a good steam cleaning or even a trip to a car wash should remove enough soot for it to return to operating normally.

Hi. I work on Laars HI-E2 heaters at the hotels and there are 3 possible problem. The igniter, ignition control module or "not enough air for good hot combustion" are the main sources. I can go into details about my experiences. I suggest it is best to contact a service company to look at the problem.

If you dont smell any gas make sure that all gas valves between the heater and the main gas meter are open, and the gas valve in the heater is in the on position. Try cleaning out the nozzles that the gas comes out of. Sometimes they can build up with cobwebs.

If you have checked the circuit breakers and they appear to be functioning properly, here are a few other things you can try:

1. Check the GFCI outlet: If the AquaLink RS is plugged into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet, make sure the outlet hasn't tripped. You can do this by pressing the "reset" button on the outlet.
2. Check the transformer: The AquaLink RS requires 24 volts AC power to operate. If the transformer that converts your home's AC power to the 24 volts required by the AquaLink RS is faulty, it can cause the system to fail. Use a multimeter to test the transformer to ensure it's supplying the proper voltage.
3. Check the power supply: If the transformer is supplying the proper voltage but the AquaLink RS is still not receiving power, the power supply board may be faulty. Check the power supply board for any obvious signs of damage, such as bulging or leaking capacitors.
4. Check the wiring: It's possible that a wire has become loose or disconnected, preventing the AquaLink RS from receiving power. Check all of the wiring connections to make sure they're secure and tight.

If you're still unable to get power to the AquaLink RS, it may be time to call a professional pool technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

1. Check the air sensor: The first step is to locate the air sensor and check for any visible issues. Make sure it is properly connected and not damaged.
2. Check the wiring: If the air sensor appears to be in good condition, the problem may be with the wiring. Check the wiring for any loose connections or damaged wires. If you find any issues, you may need to repair or replace the wiring.
3. Check the control board: The control board is responsible for managing the various functions of the pool heater. If the control board is malfunctioning, it can cause the air sensor to short out. You can check the control board by testing it with a multimeter. If you suspect the control board is the problem, you may need to replace it.
4. Check the air intake: If the air intake is blocked or restricted, it can cause the air sensor to short out. Make sure the air intake is clear and unobstructed.

go into system set up and turn on on remote

see if hooked up with 4 wire from heater to aqualink if so try checking wires for one loose or off if ok try to use the firemans swith to pins 1 and 2 then heater button will work

check the air switch hose make sure not pinched or hole in it then if ok make sure fan running correct speed

bad display board

check with your local dealer . we have no clue

WERE I YOU I WOULD ASK THE HEATER COMPANY OR THE JANDY

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Internal bypass rarely goes bad. More likely the high limit switches have corrosion on them and have failed. Pull the high limit switches out and see if there is corrosion on them. If there is replace both high limits and put a dab or white lithium grease on top before installing.

It is very likely that your exhaust Fuselink is faulty. There are two types of fuselink used on the LXI, commonly called the upper (exhaust) high temp and the lower (combustion intake) low temp. Make sure you purchase the correct part for the right location and ALWAYS turn off the power to the heater when changing the sensor.

Make sure you have the correct version pda and antenna. The new 18 function white/black pda will not interface with the old gray antenna. Likewise, the new black antenna will only interface with the white/black remote.

The fuse link is a device that will open when over heated. If the exhaust temp is to high it will open and is a one time device. It can not be reset it must be replaced with a high temp fuse link made for the exhaust location. It will have a red mark on it indicating high temp. Low gas pressure can cause a lean fuel condition that may cause the exhaust temp to rise enough to trip the link. I would also check for scale inside the heat exchanger. Scale inside the heat exchanger will not allow for proper heat transfer to the water, this will cause excess heat to be present in the exhaust. Proper water balance and flow are very important.

One of your actuators more likely the suction side is bad or the toggle switch on the bottom or side of the actuator is in the off position.

It keeps the clock time.if the power goes out.