20 Most Recent Jenn-Air 48" Side-By-Side Built-In Refrigerator, JS48CSD - Page 9 Questions & Answers

What kind of frig.?? Its a motherboard... There is actually a defrost heater tube... I really need to know what kind it is so I dont tell u wrong....

What is the model number?

Check to see if your evap in the rear of the freezer is icing up. I had the same concern a month ago. My evap fan( one in the freezer) went out and ice formed in the freezer becuuase of no air flow. The fan you hear running in the freezer also supplies flow to the firdge section through a "dma\\ampner" If your freezer is cold but fridge section is not I would check for a blocked section(blocked with ice build up) where the flow of cold air to fridge section is restricted. I would use your model number and go to www.appliancepartspros.com and search for your fridge with your model number. This will give you a parts, mounting and routints breka down of your fridge and you will have a better idea what your dealing with.

Could be a couple problems. The thermostat may not be making the contacts close to tell the compresser to turn on all the time. The compresser could be overloading which would be caused by overheating (clean the condenser). The freezer and frige evaperators may be becoming frozen up due to a bad defrost timer. When the freezer warms up check to see if the compresser is running, if it is not put your hand un it, if it is hot then it's overloading and should be replaced. If it is running and isn't really hot check to make sure all of the fans are running, should be one condenser fan and one on each evaperator. And look for ice build up inside the freezer and fridge. If all the fans are running and coils are clear and compresser is running next st is a plugged cap tube which is the metering device to the evaperators. The mechanic can trim them down six inches and fill the system and they should work great again. Hope this helps

If there were no lights on inside I would have to say a connection from the power source to the fridge has been rattled loose. But if the lights were on and nothing was running, you may have a compresser problem. I would pull the frige out and pull the back bottom panel off and look for burnt or loose wires following the plug wire into the fridge. If the lights are on when you plug it in and you have the back off, put your hand on the compresser, if it is not vibrating and is very hot it is done fore and needs to be replaced. If it is cool and the lights are on I could check the connection on the thermostat inside the fridge. If it is clicking and nothing is happening the t-stat contacts may be stuck open Good luck

you need a control board, about $150 part

Good day,
The decision as what the time interval of a timer should be is determined by engineers and field tests.
There is more to the timer than interval. Timers are usually listed as 8 hours 21 minutes, 8 hours 30 minutes ect. The minutes is used to designate the time the control stays in defrost.
A general rule is if the interval is longer, the minutes in the defrost cycle is extended to compensate.
Other factors come into play such as the wattage of the defrost heaters and the defrost thermostat temperature.

The trend today, with timers is to extend the interval to make the machine more energy efficient.

There is never an issue to defrost more often then the original, but it will run the heaters more often, and cause increased operating cost and shortened heater life.
The short and long of it is you can use a 6 hour timer in any machine if the timer motor wiring is the same and the duration is long enough, but with the costs listed above.

Either the damper also known as the diverter door is not functioning properly or the thermostat tempreture control is not working properly. You could also have a defrost issue which you could visually notice if you seen frost build up on the rear wall of the freezer. If you have any questions message me back I await your reply.Thank youRick

HI DANIEL.without a visual is difficult.but i would defrost all first.and try.otherwise it could be lack of refrigerant. internal bloackage.motor.good luck.ali

hi.ummmm.sealed condenser unit.(new one).well condenser units have to be open somewhere to cool it.1- by air 2- by fan 3-by the refrigerator cooling.(condenser inside insulation,not accessible)i suppose if access is difficult then a blast of compressed air,blast with refrigerant gas,or try for a quick fix computer cleaner comp/air.good luck.Ali

please list the model number off the machine so I can pull up a schematic If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3