Top 20 GE GSH25JSTSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

hey Jun, I have the same problem,, especially in the winter.. I just unplug mine for about 20 minutes,,,(DON'T open the frig while doing this!!!) .. seems to get the water flowing for me.....

try unplugging it for few minutes then plug back in

This is a difficult repair. The inside of the door, which includes the door shelves has to be removed, along with the door insulation in order to get at the screws that hold the handle on.

Easiest solution is to measure the inside dimensions in inches, tall, width and depth. Then multiply the three dimensions t x w x d = cubic inches. To get cubic feet then divide the above answer by 1728 and the result is cubic feet.. For instance if the fridge is 60 inches tall x 24 inches wide x 18 inches deep; the answer is 60 x 24 x 18 = 25,929 cubic inches... 25,920 divided by 1728 = 15 cubic feet.

Try defrosting entire refrigerator unit. You will have to put perishables in a cooler. The freon lines may have a clog forming which is not allowing coolant to circulate If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

Howling suggests something wrong!!!! Just kidding , of course. It does suggest that something is rubbing. Most noises are caused by vibration, same thing as the noise when my old bones rub together because the cartilege has worn away over the years. I suggest you find a food grade lubricant, hunt around at Lowe's or Home Depot for same. and if you have one, use a finger pressure squirt gun to squirt some of this stuff into the mechanisms that are inside your ice making unit. There are some small mechanisms in an ice maker that develop some pretty good forces especially to break up the ice. Unfortunately I am sure there may be some mechanisms that you can not get to very easily and you may have to take something apart.. Yeah, I know, involves emptying the fridge and all that bother...

Is the ice maker working properly? There is a water filter in the refrigerator through which both the ice maker and water dispenser are supplied and over time it will slow down the flow and eventually block. Have you changed it recently? Often, ice cubes will get smaller as it blocks and the ice maker will also quit. Also, have you checked the water supply line that goes to the ice maker and water dispenser? It should be a small diameter copper or plastic line that connects to the back of the refrigerator. Ed

this could simply be the refrigerant gas boiling off as it absorbs heat - also can sound like boiling water - this is normal in some smaller domestic cabinets and not harmful -

motor is wired up backwards.

A thermistor is an electronic thermal control(Thermostat)So, yes it could cause a defrost. Use a multimeter on the resistance settings and check for a short through the thermistor.(the most likely cause) But, short or open circuit would mean you need to change it.

You will need to replace the dispenser control board. Here is that part to order.

Change the filter. Change it often, especially if you have silt in your water....

Check it with an Ohm Meter. It should read high Ohms in one direction and lower Ohms in the other even though it is an AC Capacitor it. It should retain some lower voltage if good. Also a ow voltage transformer and see if it will hold some voltage for a wile.

Ice maker is working. Water dispenser is not working. I did the initial diagnosis and the water line is not frozen. How do I replace the water valve or is that the right next step?

This sounds like the relay has gone on the compressor. Call your local appliance parts store
(no model no. needed) and ask for a hard start kit. Instructions are on kit.
I use ERP 410 powerstart relay capacitor and over load. See it has everything and is much better than the original.
Remove the back cover, pull the original relay off the compressor pins, cut the two wires and install according to instructions. Very easy job.
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First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

The water pressure may be too low. Make sure the water valve under the sink is open completely. If not then you could have an obstruction in the line.

The clicking could be the start relay.If the start relay is bad, the compressor will not start and you will hear a clicking noise in 2-5 minute intervals. The clicking noise is the overload cutting the compressor off when it overheats from trying to start with a bad start relay. To find out if this is bad first unplug the refrigerator. Remove the lower cover from your refrigerator. Then take the cover off that is on the side of the compressor,you will see wires going to this. Now you should be able to see the start relay plugged on to the side of the compressor and unplug it. Now the best way to tell if it's bad is to shake it. If it rattles, it's bad and needs to be replaced. If not, most of the time it's ok. But rather than saying the compressors bad, you might want to replace it anyways because it does not cost much. A quick check on the compressor is to remove the start relay. You will see 3 pins connect a multi meter set for continuity. You should have continuity between any of the 3 pins. If you do not the compressor is bad. Also check from each pin to a good ground on the cabinet. There should be no continuity if there is the compressor is bad. If you replace it and it doesn't work then the compressor is bad and you'll need to call a repairman. (Note that compressors are very costly and are normally not worth fixing).You can enter your model # at Refrigerator clicking for diagrams and illustrations or to purchase a start relay. A 3 in 1 start relay will also work fine. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101
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