20 Most Recent Bosch Axxis WTA 3510 Electric Dryer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I've sorted mine this morning. First, disconnect from the mains - VERY important! Pull out the metal condenser unit at the bottom, and behind it, there's a small hatch in the bottom to the reservoir. This can get gunked up with water, and is very difficult to clean - HOWEVER - I've found a really easy way of cleaning it. I've got a VAX carpet washer with a hose attachment, and I simply sucked all the water out using that. If you don't own a carpet cleaner maybe borrow one. I did this this morning, and my tumble-dryer's still running happily after an hour! It is possible to clean it out without vacuum, but it takes a LOT longer, and the vacuum of the cleaner pulls out gunk that is hard to access. Another place where gunk collects is behind that hatch right at the back - there's a tube up to the right. I pulled out quite a long chunk of lint. However, that wasn't the solution on it's own, I still had to clean out the reservoir as above.

F03 MEAN SENSOR DEFAULTPUMP OR LENT

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what I've read of your post..."no heat to dry the clothes. I tried the automatic feature (which I regularly use) and I also tried the timed feature. Neither of these provided heat to dry the clothes."

I'd certainly suspect the hi-limit thermostat is tripped if it is indeed a WTA series Bosch. I'm not clear as to whether or not you located the hi-limit safety, reset it, or ruled it out so I'm going to explain what to look for and what to do when you get there.

**Unplug the unit from the wall or switch off the breaker...safety first**

Once the dryer has been disconnected from any power, remove the rear panel...

i.e.


Once the panel has successfully been removed, you'll see the heater with the Hi-Limit and NTC attached. The Hi-limit is the thermostat with the red button in the center...

i.e.


push it in to reset it. As you can see by the images I've provided, if you have a multi-meter or ohm meter you can verify the proper values of the listed components.

If the hi-limit is tripped, obviously something triggered it, you can check the possible culprits such as the NTC's or heater with the info I provided above as I alluded to.

( Even so, I'd suggest running it through a cycle or two and monitor it's performance, it may have tripped simply due to poor air flow from a large load etc. and therefore nothing is actually wrong...human error )

You may run the dryer momentarily without the rear panel in place provided nothing electrical has been disconnected, don't attempt an entire cycle, just witness the heater functioning, but it isn't recommended for much longer than a minute or two.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and please let me know what you find out or if you indeed require further assistance. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi,

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

The problem could be a faulty belt sensor switch. Open dryer from the back, switch is on bottom left side. It is white and has a black arm with a spring on it. It is a safety feature that, in the event the belt breaks, the dryer will shut off. If the belt is not broken wiggle it and try to start the dryer .See if it works.

Also check this link to download the manual :-

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Bosch-WTA3510UC-Dryers-manual/id/925bh648/t/2/

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

the is a switch located on the lower pulley that has to be set in, between when you take off the belt and remove the tub and when you reinstall the tub and the belt you would have to depress the belt switch the unit does not run unless the belt switch is depressed and you also end up getting that damp dry light because of it as well I had the same thing happen on a siemans by bosch that I had to replace the relays on try to belt switch its located where the belt pulley is yes I know your saying it cant be that simple its just a small pin that you push in And message me back if this does not work and we can diagnose this issue further I await your reply Thanks Rick
the reason I think the belt switch is he would have to take the tub out to dlint the unit properly and he can get to the switch through the back of the machine as well Thanks Rick

Have you checked your motor. Sounds like you checked everything else.

Most American Dryers connect up like this:
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

heres a step by step short video to show you how its done http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Switch-Assembly/528948#repairHelpVideoTabs please take a moment to rate my reply thanks and good luck

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Overheating is most probably caused by low air flow past the heating element. High air flow would not allow the air to overheat. Check to be sure the fan is rotatingn freely and then check the heating element/wires for dirt or other obstructions. We were having "burning" problems that were revealed to be an errant latex glove that excaped from my wife's pants pocket during an earlier drying cycle. When it hit the elements, it began to cause a scortching smell and partially melted. In this instance, the air flow about the element was restricted and the reamining air overheated and the sensor sounded. When the sensor sounds, heating ceases and you will get non-uniform drying. I picked off the pieces of the glove from the wires and except for an unrelated drive belt breaking, we have not had problems.

1 INSPECT POWER SUPLY
2 DOOR SWITCH FOULTY

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

your sensor is either dirty, most likely or bad. it is located under the lint trap. if you look down you will see it it has tow screws, be careful when cleaning it as it may break.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

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the motor has to be replaced if its causing these problems