This is a simple direct drive washer. If you are having problems with speeds that is going to be the timer. The agitator is attached to the transmission, their is nothing electronic about it. A $200 motor is attached to the tranny. Power from the motor is transferred to the basket via a clutch and a drive coupling. The main thing that happens to these machines is people adding quilts or rugs to the basket. This causes the drive coupling to break. The good news is nothing is hard to repair on this model and is it well worth keeping.
Check for a kinked or clogged drain line. The hose can be removed from the pump and the pump can be checked for clogs. Take a flashlight and look into the suction port of the pump and look for any obstructions (like the occasional stray sock, for example). Also check the pump impeller for broken or missing blades and ensure that the impeller spins freely. If not, the pump is defective. Hope this helped and best wishes.
If the machine will not operate to drain the water, gravity will do the job for you. Simply remove the drain hose from the standpipe, and lower it to a floor drain if one is near enough to the machine. If no floor drain, you can catch the water from the hose into a large bucket for disposal. You will need to empty the bucket numerous times before the washer is empty.
remember that when removing the drum with the wrench make sure you turn it anti-clockwise and wedge it in with a piece of wood between the spider and the plastic drum so when you it the wrench with a hammer,as this will be very stiff the metal spider will not turn upon trying to turn the wrench,hope this helps yu ?
1. Clogged drain line or water pump Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).
2. Water Pump If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.
**The most common issue will be an obstructed hose or, line
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
