Sometimes when i put on the brakes the rear brakes lock up. this doesnt always happen but i need to fix it. i already replaced the master cylinder and changed the fluid. can anybody help me?
The most likely problem will be the rubber line coming from the splitter leading to the caliper. With age these get soft inside allowing fluid to pass one way easily but not the other. Remove this line and blow through it both ways to insure the fluid can pass both ways. If needed check the line from the master cylinder to the splitter as well.
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sounds like the serov on the brake system has gone could be the abs side or the master cylinder its self. with engine running can you hear a hissing sound from the master cylinder. ??
Hi, what you feel is your anti-lock brake actuator pumping the brakes. This is probably due to dirty/dusty or improperly adjusted brake shoes causing the rear brakes to lock. It is also possible that you have a leak in one or both rear brake cylinders. Have your rear brakes checked, cleaned, and adjusted. If you would like to do it yourself, I can provide instructions--just let me know.
First do you have ABS next did you bench bleed the new master cylinder if not you can;t bleed the rest of the system You have to keep in mind that you have opened the entire system up and there is going to be a lot of air traped in it Getting back to the master cylinder it needs to be bleed pirior to installing it you need a little kit put the fittings into the holes where the lines go put the little hoses in to the resivoior put the cylinder in a vice and push on the pistion from the back until no more comes out of corse you need to fill it first then install it and rebleed the lines starting at the ferthise cylinder away from the master and work to the closest and its going to talk at least 10 to 15 pumps for the rears less for the front becase there closer and there is less line to bleed Make sure you have no leaks first if you see anything at all stop and fix the leak Hopefuly don;t have abs thats a whole differant thing but the brake still work fine with out it get them working and worry about that later good luck
try bleeding them more,start with the right rear,then left rear,then right front ,then left front, always bleed the brake that is furthest from the master cylinder, sometimes you have to bleed them several times until you get a steady stream of brake fluid.
That sounds to me like a problem with the power brake booster unit or the master cylinder, the wrong master cylinder could be installed, and this could happen if the plunger rod from the vacuum booster unit is too long for the opening on the rear of the master cylinder, that is why any time that a master cylinder is replaced to be certain that the depth of the plunger valve in the rear of the master cylinder is the same as the original part that was removed. Also the brake booster itself could be malfunctioning and activating the brakes with just the engine vacuum.
The only moving parts on brake's are caliper's and master cylinder.The rest are just pipe's. Dosent sound like the master cylinder as the two back brakes should lock not one. It still sounds like caliper's. Can you be sure they have changed them If it were mine I would get someone independent to check they have done the work they say they done.
check to see if the rubber bushing is on the master cylinder pushrod where it bolts up to the booster..if its missing and or doubles , it may cause u to lock ur brakes up..i had this problem where the tech didnt put one and or didnt remove one while installing the new master cylinders...there should only be one. most factory and aftermarket mast cyl come with one however techs sometimes for get to check the booster for the old one some assume its still there cuz they always almost get stuck in there..so they install the new master cyl.without one or with one and either they have none..or both...it only needs one...
Is the caliper excessively hot when this happens? Are the brakes dragging?
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