Do the park lamps work ? license plate lights get power from same fuse ! Check ground wire ! use a volt meter an do voltage drop test ! Voltage Drop Testing The fuse for the license plate lights is in the under hood fuse box -engine compartment ! fuse #12 RT PRK LAMP 10Amp .
I just had the same problem. I took the cover off, saw the white bulb base, twisted it to take it out, but it popped back inside the door. I got it out, but it wouldn't pull through, so I twisted it back in place and went to Autozone to get new bulb. Once I saw the new bulb, it was obvious, just the bulb itself pulls out. There's so little room to work, I couldn't get it with just my fingers - - maybe rubber gloves would have worked, but I used pliers, lightly, wiggled it a little and it popped right out. I had a similar issue once with the taillight bulb and had to break the bulb and then grip the remaining filament wires with pliers to get it out, so that was my backup plan, just in case.
put key in ignition turn to the on position for ten minutes. dont touch it watch the security light on dash . after 10 minutes it should be off. if it is off turn ignition switch off for 5 secs. then proceed in cranking it. if security light dont turn off. you have bcm problems. it have to be towed in.
The fuse labeled REAR PARK LP 15A in the right instrument panel fuse box powers the rear park lamps, and the tag lamps. If your rear park lamps are working then you most likely need to replace the tag lamps (bulbs). Use the following procedure to replace the lamps.
Remove the two mounting screws from the license plate lamp.
Remove the license plate lamp from the rear bumper fascia.
Remove the license plate lamp socket by turning it counterclockwise.
Install the license plate lamp socket by turning it clockwise.
Position the license plate lamp to the rear bumper fascia.
First of all buy new bulbs (dont pay too much on resellers), just go on Alibaba and buy it for cheap price... than:
Remove or pull back inside trunk liner. May need to unscrewcargo net hook. Twist to unlock the bulb socket assembly ( has 3 wires going into it) and pull out of tail lamp. Remove bulb from socket. clean up any hardened grease found inside socket and apply fresh dielectric grease. insert ne bulb. insert socket into tail lamp and twist to lock. re-install trunk liner.
Hi, Richard before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, look for, corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For the brake lights:
Before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. On early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot-welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.silveradosierra.com/electrical/turn-flasher-module-problem-t933.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAxrNiUgnzw https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-d630_ds546768 https://www.silveradosierra.com/electrical/brake-light-issue-t10234.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDMTPvV9bHY
If your relay clicks that's a good thing however you still need to double check it you see 12 v is going in on the small blades powering the coil making it open connect allowing higher amperage 12 v to power the motors they need a lot of juice .Unplug the relay you will need jumper wires and a cheap muilty meter attach the small terminals to the battery it will open witch will make the wider terminals connect and send power to the drivers door master control. I f you have power their its most likely a bad connection water snow salt you just have to take it apart they wiggle wires at connectors before you rip to much apart
most likely there is an issue with the air intake, such as a leak or poorly installed intake.
What causes the P0106 code?
The MAP circuit for range and performance problem may have several causes:
The source of the problem is that the MAP sensor range voltage output is incorrect and out of the programmed input required by the ECU.
The most common problem is an air intake system vacuum or intake hose being loose, cracked, or missing it's plastic fittings and clamps.
The wiring or MAP sensor may be bad, brittle, cracked, have a bad connection, or could be too close to the higher voltage consumption components, especially alternators, ignition wires, etc. A poor electrical ground can cause problems also.
The sensor itself may simply be operating out of range from fatigue in it's internal components.
MAP sensors must operate within specific ranges to send correct signals for the ECU to coordinate with the throttle position sensor and adjust correctly for proper engine operation.
If the engine is not in good condition, is missing, has poor fuel pressure, or there is an internal issue with the engine like a burned valve, it can prevent the MAP sensor from getting a correct output.
The ECU could also be bad but that is rare.
What are the symptoms of the P0106 code?
P0106 code will be generally preceded by the Check Engine Light coming on the dashboard display. The vehicle in most cases will not run well, idle poorly, accelerate erratically, run rich, and backfire because the MAP sensor and throttle position sensor will not operate together properly.
How does a mechanic diagnose the P0106 code?
P0106 is diagnosed with an OBD- II scanner. A qualified technician should then reset the OBD- II fault codes and perform a road test of the vehicle to see if the code comes back. He can observe this by watching live data streaming on his scanner while driving. If the code comes back, then the mechanic will need to do a close inspection to see if the vacuum line and other hoses on the intake system are missing, loose, damaged, or disconnected. If these things appear to be correct, the technician should do a voltage output test on the sensor while the engine is running to determine if the output voltages fluctuate with engine speed and load on the engine. Check that all grounds are operating correctly, since any ground related to the ECU could cause signal fluctuations from sensors.
Common mistakes when diagnosing the P0106 code.
Diagnostic errors are largely due to not following the proper procedure. First, follow the test procedure in the diagnosis to insure there is no intake air leak like a bad vacuum hose or connection. The technician must verify that the voltage output of the MAP sensor is correct and fluctuates with the engine speed and proper voltage. Idle voltage is normally 1 to 1.5 volts and full throttle is usually around 4.5 volts.
Do not buy a new MAP Sensor or ECU unless it is clearly at fault.
Not all vehicles have them, as it might be an optional extra or aftermarket addition. If it has one it will be fitted into a core plug on the side of the block and will have a cord with a mains plug on it. The manual says 'Driver's side of the engine'.
You can't just take out the security wire as you say . If the PCM/ECM doesn't see a correct signal from the security module it won't let your vehicle start . You just cost yourself a whole lot of money . Now the only thing you can do is have it towed to a qualified repair shop . You obviously have no clue on anti-theft systems an the electronics involved . With a new or used steering coulmn the keys will still need to be programmed into the computers .
The vehicle theft deterrent system functions are provided by the theft deterrent control module(VTD). The vehicle theft deterrent system prevents vehicle operation if a valid (learned) transponder PASS-Key®III (PK3) ignition key is not used to start the vehicle. The VTD module has an exciter that is part of the VTD module as an assembly. The PK3 key has a transponder embedded in the plastic head of the key. The exciter is an antenna which is made up of wire coils which surround the ignition lock cylinder. The PCM enables engine starting when it receives a valid (learned) password from the VTD module via the class 2 serial data circuit. The components of the vehicle theft deterrent system are as follows:
• Theft deterrent control module (VTD)
• Powertrain control module (PCM)
• Ignition key (Transponder)
• Ignition lock cylinder
• Security indicator
WITH ENGINE OFF,LOCATE TIMING BYPASS CONNECTOR,TAN WIRE WITH BLACK STRIPE.IT WILL BE LOCATED ON PASSENGER FIREWALL OR PASSENGER SIDE UNDER DASH IN FRONT OF OR BESIDE BLOWER MOTOR.DISCONNECT WIRE.START ENGINE AND SET TIMING TO O DEGREES BY LOOSENING AND TURNING DISTRIBUTOR AND USING TIMING GUN.RETIGHTEN DISTRIBUTOR AND DOUBLE CHECK TIMING.IF STILL GOOD ,SHUT OFF MOTOR AND RECONNECT TIMING BYPASS CONNECTOR.DRIVE TRUCK AT PARTIAL THROTTLE AND LET OFF BACK TO IDLE TO TEACH COMPUTER.IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO USE A TIMING GUN YOU ATTACH TIMING WIRE TO #1 CYLINDER WHICH IS DRIVER SIDE FRONT.HOOK POS AND NEG WIRES OF GUN TO BATTERY MAKING SURE TIMING WIRE ON GUN IS FACING TO THE SPARK PLUG. HOPE THIS HELPS