20 Most Recent 2000 KTM Exc-Racing E 400 Questions & Answers

Have an 05 KTM it has Mitchelin Cross Competition S12's at the moment which people tell me are a motocross tyre only? bearing in mind I am using this bike for green laning only which tyres should I go for? Cheers Reply With Quote s12 tyres are a motocross tyre and are quite soft,they are a brilliant tyre for the slippery stuff but are not for highway use.michelin do enduro competition tyres and ac 10 tyres that are both road legal are are good for wear but are quite pricey,another good tyre for road use and are the fim road legal metzeler six day tyres(they come as stock on most ktms)which are also very good hope this is of some help.,,,

Thanks for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Check externally for the obvious things first like a bent shift lever or lever re-installed in a position interfering with frame or something preventing engagement into 1st gear. I'm never that lucky.
More than likely you have either bent a shifting fork or lost a tooth on a gear or something on the shift mechanism internally is bent, broken, or has lost a clip. Drain your oil and check the plug magnet to see if any metal shavings, fragments, or parts appear.
You will most likely have to pull the engine and split the case and replace parts. You can take it to a shop or if your handy do it your self. Take a look at the link to the parts fiche and determine your preference.
http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
2001/400/Engine/Transmission II (Don't know if your bike is a SX or EXC Racing)
2001 > 400 SX RACING > ENGINE > SHIFTING MECHANISM
You can also order a repair manual from this site or ask your dealer

http://www.repairmanual.com/KTM.html

If we can provide other information or service please advise.

Kind regards,

TF

very hard to change to electric start, unles there is already a place to bolt the starter motor it may need another engine case and internal starter gears

Yes and no is the answer. If its the stock KTM pipe it should not backfire, if it has an aftermarket pipe (race pipe) there is a good chance it will. You should make sure all the exhaust joints are sealed properly as this will contribute to it. If its a race pipe, make sure the bike has had the carb rejetted to suit. Genrally, with a race pipe you will get some popping when decellerating even if it has been set up correctly.

That would be like riding a fixed wheel bike.Think about how you will stop and start. Only hydraulic fluid will leak. Bad idea!

Question edited for clarity. That sounds like it is just a bad connection somewhere or possibly a bad switch. Remove the battery leads and clean the lead contacts and battery posts with a wire brush. Smear with Vaseline and reconnect. Remove the starter leads and do the same. Then it could be the Starter Relay https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+relay+location Or Starter Button https://www.google.com/search?q=ktm+450+sx-f+starter+button+replacement ..

personnaly I would replace cylinder with new OEM

All dirt bikes have a VIN. It is on the steering neck. https://www.google.com/search?q=vin+on+my+ktm+300 ..

Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..

Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.

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Hi, try to see this link and looking for the manual that you need. https://www.pdfmotomanual.com/manuales/ktm/eng I hope to give you an help. Luca

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Hi, most likely your cdi unit or ignition coil needs replacing.

took me a min or two of WTF-ing to see pic and realize you meant a 2-stroke motorcycle..

try replace spark plugs

It's a bad seal of the head gasket. You need a new head gasket and to scrape every particle of debris from the cylinder head and cylinder surfaces that mate with the head gasket. Use the factory specified gasket sealing compound and do a clean job - no blobs or pools of the stuff. The head gasket should lay flat on the surface of the top of the cylinder, and you have to make this surface free of grit, leftover sealant and any other foreign matter before you put the head in place and torque it down. Start with the head bolts just finger tight and then go by the manufacturer's specs for the pattern and amount of torque to be applied. Usually it is recommended that you get to the specified torque amount in stages, going around several times and repeating the torque pattern until you get that maximum rated amount. This will prevent the seal from shifting or warping and should make the gasket seal perfectly. This is the old school method of doing this job. and I have never seen this fail to produce good results. Take your time, be clean, and you will have the results you want.

Check the clutch, adjust, clean, or replace

over full sump fuel getting into sump badly worn rings allowing excessive blow by

Worn out shift dogs.

Make sure cables are working . Follow it down to clutch and make sure clutch lever is actually moving. It is does then pull clutch in and pushbike backwards. Should release If not , plates are probably frozen through excessive heat. Replace them. If lever does not move when clutch handle pulled, then adjust or broken cable. hope that' it, easier and cheaper!