Question about KTM Motorcycles

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I have a 2003 ktm pro senior lc for my son, the bike was running good until the water pump did a seal, I have replaced the bearing and seals, but now the bike has no power. It will start and run well on the stand but once he gets on the bike and tries to ride it , it barely moves just revs up and won’t move, any ideas guys?? Would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by Jamie Willis on


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Eric Hirsh

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  • 28 Answers

Check the clutch, adjust, clean, or replace

Posted on Dec 26, 2018


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  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: 06 ktm 50 pro senior bogs after warming up

It sounds like he is running out of fuel in the bowl,poss accelarator pump ?

Posted on Apr 02, 2009



  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: will not run

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There may be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw, (sticks out from side of carb perpendicular to the carb throat).

If you are smoking that badly, loose the gas in the tank and start fresh with a 32/1 gas/oil mix. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE OIL to one gallon of gas. Do NOT use motor oil in the gas. It may continue to smoke for awhile, until it rids it'self of built up oil in the crankcase.

On the clutch, be sure the oil level in the gearbox is correct. This is where 10w40 motor oil goes. Check the clutch cable linkages. One at the clutch lever and possibly one at the motor. You should have about 1/4" play in the clutch handle before the lever starts actually pulling the clutch.

You can download a free PDF service manual from this site > > I checked and your manual is on the list.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Apr 11, 2009


  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: Hi Guys, Have a Murray ride-on with both rear axle

you can fine this information on the internet under murray riding in most cast
use 90 w oil in the gear boxs

Posted on Jul 18, 2009


Douglas Hansen

  • 2050 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 KTM 125 sx high revving out problem

Look into your power valve. If it doesn't operate freely, you won't get peak performance. They can get gummed up.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009


  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: GSXR shut down while riding

i had this prob a nightmare my su 1000 done this then. after a few weeks,i would park up go for a cuppa , try to start it and nothing just clicking from the switch. i disconnected the immobiliser

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

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I had a complete set of new seals installed last fiday and the pump appeared to be nice and dry? While sitting at the starting line for the district 37 grand prix last Saturday with the bike idling I looked down and fluid started spitting out of the weep hole?? I turned off the motor and it eventually stopped leaking. I went ahead and raced and it leaked a small amount more throughout the day??? Any ideas?? other than maybe it was a bad seal? or a bad installation from my local shop??probably right. The stock o-rings KTM sells for the carrier are 2-3 sizes smaller than they should be. I bought a bag of the corect (IMHO) o-rings. When you stretch an o-ring it gets thinner the further you stretch it the thinner it gets until it breaks. Since the o-ring is stretched thinner on the carrier it is not compressed properly it looses some of it sealing surface and can't hold the pressure as well. I think this is the reason most of the newly replaces water pump seals leak. That's why it will start leaking as the motor heats up and will continue to leak until the motor cools off and the pressure is gone from the cooling system. To test this warm the motor up and note how long it takes before the coolant starts leaking. Let the bike cool and then remove the radiator cap and warm the engine up if there's no leak then the o-rings are probably bad if it starts leaking then the seals are more likely the problem.,,,

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