At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Replaced clutch master, slave and clutch assembly with factory parts. after driving 3 days, clutch pedal drops to floor and has to be manually pumped up to get pedal back
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
either the master clutch cylinder is bad or the slave cylinder is bad. The slave cylinder is difficult to bleed. You should use a mityvac to bleed system.. it will require 2 people and new fluid. never let master cylinder to get low on fluid.
1995 YJ if still stock all that is ONE PART, see FSM quote below.
is the fluid dropping, day by day, week by week???
y/n?
yes, then either the slave or mc are bad.
sometimes both can fail, (rust happens inside and is progressive)
what I do , is this. (if not wanting to change out both)
1: look at the MC, if it done leak down either side of the fire wall
it might be good (dont mean the piston seals good but its not leaking, so if fluid drops , (every week say) the the MC is ok
and for sure the slave leaks.
2: so where is your slave. have you looked,? (swaps happen)
most leak and can not be detected as that leak landed on the road to work.
for sure its just 2 parts, here, you know the clutch is ok.
because it works with fluid in the system and bled.
now ILL PASTE THE FSM words out of a real factory service manual.
they are clear.
FSM words, QUOTE:
CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINKAGE REMOVAL
The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be
overhauled or serviced separately. The cylinders
and connecting line are sealed units. Also
note that removal/installation procedures for
right and left hand drive models are basically
the same. Only master cylinder location is different.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing (Fig.
9).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight. This is necessary to avoid undue spillage
during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts.
Note that one nut is accessible from engine compartment
and one nut is accessible from under instrument
panel (Figs. 10 and 11).
(8) Remove clip securing clutch master cylinder
push rod to pedal and slide push rod off pedal pin.
(9) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(10) If pedal pin is equipped with bushing, inspect
condition of bushing and replace it if worn or damaged.
(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through engine
compartment.
Bobbie, If your sure the system is bled properly,did you get the clutch fork back in correct position, was it the correct bearing etc., you may have to adjust the clutch pedal and / or if it has a mechanical return spring, change the spring, it could be weak.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides for clutch pedal adjustment., bleeding,etc.Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.
You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
clutch pedal stays on the floor
×