2000 camry back up light (bulb # 921) is overheating and burning the inside of the mounting hole drawing too much current which is causing the warning light to come on. Replaced the bulb and it did the same thing. I have also replaced all the bulbs on my car. How would I fix this problem?

search for a video of someone replacing a toyota instrument cluster on youtube.com. getting the cluster out and back in is the trick, swapping the bulbs is a snap.

Did my 2005 highlander. You replace from the inside. On the inside of the rear hatch, the top center plastic molding gentle snaps off. You twist out the bulb holder and replace with one #921 bulb

There is a blower resister module that controls the speeds,it is located near the blower motor and mounts on the blower case.It actually mounts on the blower case,but goes inside the case to keep it cool,the blower motor is the reason the resister has gone out,it is drawing too many amps,even though it might be blowing good,and sounding good,it is the cause,so replace it also,or you will be replacing the blower motor resister again,if this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.

It all depent's which ones are out, here a list of rear bulb's.

Turn signal bulbs # 921
Stoplight's # 3057
Tail light's # 3057
Backup light's # 921
Center stop light # 921
License plate light # 17177
Side marker # 194

Have some one turn light on while some one check them. First light then brakes then turn signals. till you see which ones don't work, and replace as needed.

1) You will need to open the rear swing door.

2) On the inside jam there are two torx headed screws (T-15's if I remember correctly).

3) Unscrew the two torx screws.

4) The light is now held by two mounting tabs (small spherical headed plastic sets that go through a rubber grommet).

5) You will need to pry the light casing off (easy pressure with a good size flat head screw driver will do the trick).

6) The light bulbs are twist mount settings inside the light casing.

7) Twist out the mount setting, change the bulbs, and reset the light mountings.

8) To put the light casing push the light casing back on and put in the screws. Everything else will work in reverse when it comes to assembling the whole unit.

2006 Jeep Liberty Replacement Light Bulb Sizes
Low Beam Headlamp Bulb Size: 9007
High Beam Headlamp Bulb Size: 9007
Parking Light Bulb Size: 2825 or 3157
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3757ALL
Tail Light Bulb Size: 3157
Stop Light Bulb Size: 3157
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921
Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9145 or H3-55W
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 168
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 3157
Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 168
Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 161
Map Light Bulb Size: 578
Dome Light Bulb Size: 578
Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 906
Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 578

Thank you for using fixya, and good luck

In the trunk look at the bottom of the fixture. There will tabs to push and release the fixture. Go back inside and remove bulb and put new 921 in.

Hi, i recommend testing the switch and flasher module. i will post the testing procedures for both devices. replace the device that is faulty.

To test turn signal switches, use a 12-volt test light to probe for voltage into and out of the switch. The ignition switch must be in the RUN position for the circuit to operate. If voltage is present on the input side of the switch but not on the output side, the switch is faulty.

FLASHER TEST PROCEDURE---

• A test light can be used to determine which flasher is used for the turn signals and which is used for the hazard warning light.
• An easier way is to turn on both the directionals and the hazards. This activates both flasher units.
• By removing one of the flashers, the affected circuit no longer flashes.
• Therefore, that flash unit controls that particular circuit.
• If the turn signals fail to operate and the fuse is good, the flasher has probably failed.
• Occasionally, the flasher does not flash as fast as it once did, or it flashes faster. This is also cause for replacement.
• If it flashes too slowly or not at all, check for a burned-out bulb first.

the flasher is located in the Front seating area, driver side, driver side of steering column, mounted in corner behind instrument panel

If the turn signals operate properly in one direction but do not flash in the other, the problem is not in the flasher unit. A burned-out lamp filament will not cause enough current to flow to heat the bimetallic strip sufficiently to cause it to open. Thus the lights do not flash. Locate the faulty bulb and replace it.

You have a ground issue.Current from another circuit is running through the lights to get to ground. this causes them to burn out quickly.You need to do a real detailed visual check.A good component wiring diagram and component locator is a requirement here.

There are two black plastic clips behind the the air filter, remove them and release the whole assembly to access the lights.

If you still get in troubles, have it replaced at a petrol station, they will help you in fitting the bulb, and it won't be expensive.


Here follows
2003 Chevrolet Tracker Light Bulb Size Chart
Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
Parking Light Bulb Size: 1157A
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 1157A
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 921
Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443
Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 168 Or 921
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 168
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 921
Front Sidemarker Light Bulb Size: 194
Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 74
Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 168
Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 168
Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 158 or 74
Check Engine Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Hi-Beam Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Seat Belt Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Brake Warning Light Bulb Size: 74
Automatic Transmission Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74
Directional Signal Indicator Light Bulb Size: 74

We bought a 2000 Blazer in '02 and one day I noticed there were no brake lights, but the 3rd light on top worked fine. I did some research online and found out there was a recall on this problem due to the hazard switch on the column. I also found out if I wiggled the hazard switch a certain way, the brake lights worked. I was able to get by for awhile by wedging a 'widget' beside the hazard switch button and the hole in the column cover. This worked fine until someone would knock the widget out of place.
I finally got around to having the switch replaced at a local dealer. All was fine until last week when I was told the brake lights were out again and I found out my hazard lights didn't work either. I changed out the switch assembly myself this time, and once I had it out I saw what happened. The brake light voltage comes in to the assembly on a white wire, and the first contact this goes through is on the hazard switch. In my case the contact had obviously overheated from the brake light current and melted the plastic holding the contact in place, thus breaking the circuit to the brakes. Either a poor design or too much current for the circuit to handle.
Soooooo now I am in the process of replacing the four bulbs in the tail/brake light assembly with 3 watt Luxeon LED plug-in replacements. The current draw of the original bulbs was measured at 2.2 amps at 13.8 volts, times 4 bulbs makes about 8.8 amps that goes through the contact in the hazard switch whenever the brakes are stomped. The LED replacements draw .2 amp each, so times 4 will be .8 amp or less than 1/10th of the original equipment bulbs. These LED bulbs in my opinion are as bright or brighter than the original equipment and hopefully will help from burning out another switch assembly.. David