How to remove right u joint ford f 150 - 1995 Ford F250

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.

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https://www.google.com/search?q=1981+ford+f-150+upper+ball+joint+replacement

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There's a problem that the aftermarket ball joints will not fit correctly in the oem upper arms but if you try it must be pressed out you can get brand new arms with the ball joints from about $20.00 -$40.00 from rockauto.Com

hi chris.
go to this link and see if it helps you out.
What is the torque for ball joints on 2002 Ford 150 4x4 Google Search

Debbie Campbell... hello,

I know this will sound a wee bit odd...

Let me stall you a little bit... because unless you take your vehicle off road (even if you do) there's a GOOD probability you are looking for a fairly inexpensive problem if you get to it NOW... (Catastrophic if you ignore it).

But if you care about your vehicle(s) as much as I do it might make sense right now. Life's early poverty dictated I fix things myself... (or walk).
Later life: experience and cynicism (after the "professionals" broke at least two things for every one they fixed)... I continue (happily) to fix things myself.

There are SOME places to get information in cyber-space... some good ... MOST pure HOKUM.

If you want the VERY BEST INFORMAION the BIG secret is
the FACTORY+WORKSHOP+MANUAL... 3 books
(eBay, used $150 ish).... See the eBay URL (below).

A little shopping = better deals but Volume 3 is hard to come by... CDs are also available (worlds cheaper)... but I like having the pages (copies) at my side as I work.

FOMOCO makes some of the very best... (note: Volume 3 has wiring... lots of folks leave that out... but after 50 years of steady electronics... one thing I know for sure: its ALL BATTERY & GROUND (notwithstanding contemporary "wisdom" to the contrary))... all those on-board-computers make it all quicker, better, faster, easier!

And... They have an APP for that (Bluetooth OBD service plug).
((the goal for that is the same as a GOOD WINE... the best price!).

Right now.. you don't care about any of that...
Transfer cases + drive-lines, shafts, joints are covered EXTENSIVELY in Volume 2.

If you have a hoist or a REALLY safe way to get under your vehicle... Your description logically puts it into the front drives.

Or... ask your local gas/service station if you can watch them give it a FULL-LUBE JOB... If they find something
(& their prices are NEAR RockAuto: CV = $114, U-joint = $16)...
Consider it.

The clatter... means it could be far enough to be shinning metal at the flex joints... or producing IRON OXIDE (CHOCOLATE/RUST color)... Those are the big clues. Failing to see any of that..
You are going to have to check for FREE-PLAY...

Every "U" joint or "CV" joint you have should be really snug.. any slack can be YOUR problem.

It may take you and an assistant to play the wheels back and forth... until you find the offending joint... (these troubles usually travel in pairs).

Sorry I'm so chatty... Comment me back if you've more questions.

Be safe... Chock your wheels...!!

Lotta SMART folks have run themselves over disconnecting
DRIVE LINES!

Happy hunting...

Ford 150 2010 Ford 150 Manuals

2010 Ford F150 Service Shop Repair Manual Book Set Pickup Truck

2010 FORD 150 5 4L V8 CV Joint RockAuto

2010 FORD 150 5 4L V8 Universal Joint RockAuto

the first thing to change is ball joints and tie rod ends,then control arms,then bushings

When doing ball joints on a truck that old, I suggest you do them all at the same time. You'll need a special tool called a ball joint fork. You remove the cotter pin on the nut that holds the ball. Then you position the fork tool in between the ball joint and the arm it is attached to and hit it with a hammer until the ball joint separates from the arm. Now unscrew the joint from the adjusting tube and replace the joint. Be careful when screwing the new joint into the adjusting tube. count the number of threads that were inside the tube on the old joint and match that number when installing the new joint. Now push the joint back into the control arm and tighten the nut. Put in a new cotter pin to keep the nut from turning. After you've done all the joints , drive the truck for about 50 miles or so then have a front end alignment so your tires won't wear unevenly or if the truck steers to the right or left when you let loose of the steering wheel while moving.

It sounds to me like your front axle u joint or joints may be gone. I would suggest inspecting your front suspension carefully.

Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
Removal

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
   

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
   

1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
   

1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
   (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
   (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)

1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
   

1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
   

1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
   

1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
   

1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
   Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
   

1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.
   
   

Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
Removal

1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
   

1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.
   
   Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
   

1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
   

1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
   Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
   
   Installation
   
   1. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
      NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.
      
      NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.
      
      To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
      
   1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.
      
      
      
      
   

remove brakin system(caliper pads rotor) then disconnect outer tie rod, remove cotter pins on both ball joint nuts and remove nuts, then separate hub from i-beam, on the bench remove spring clip holing ball joint and press out, press in new joint and install hub in reverse order of dissassembly, apply grease to axle regrease bearings and caliper sliders, you will need a ball joint separator and a ball joint press, use new cotter pins

check your wheel bearings or hub on 4x4 and ball joints