Sometimes the car stalls after 15 or 20 minutes it starts back up. But before it stalls, the RPMs goes up to 3000 RPM's
SOURCE: 300zx engine idle
The reason it's stalling out is because of the adjustments you made to the CAS and TPS. You need to reset the CAS where it was, since when you rotate this sensor, you change the ignition timing. As for the TPS, that also needs to be reset to how it was. The way to adjust the idle on this engine is with a screw on the idle air control valve (IACV). At the back corner of the engine, on top on the driver's side, the IACV is bolted on. If you crouch down next to the driver's fender and look straight in at the IACV (with a flashlight) you will see a screw recessed in there, with the head pointing toward you. That's the idle adjustment screw. With the engine running, AFTER you have reset the CAS and TPS, turn this screw until you are able to set a warm-engine idle of roughly 750 RPM. Messing with TPS voltage and ignition timing is a sure-fire way to stall or blow up your engine.
SOURCE: Wont Start
Cold start valve or cold start injector. On new fuel injeccted cars they act like chokes did on carborated vehicles.
SOURCE: Just bought a 1997 Nissan XE only and i have check
A qualified repair shop wil need to check these codes and recommend repairs. a scanner and a manual will be needed for diagnosis.
SOURCE: i am getting p0400 and p 0402 codes
Check the EGR air passage tube again.
You may miss some on the first pass.
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Check for
vacuum leaks on intake manifold,
the air tube between the air filter.
intake manifold vacuum hose.
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clean throttle plate with Berryman carburator cleaner
SEE sample picture HERE
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Also remove carbon built up behind the EGR valve and the EGR passage tube.
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Vacuum leak WILL offset the intended 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio.
More un-metered air (leaks) will lean out the fuel mixture.
Use small amount of Berryman carb clearer at potential air leak area will help you identify trouble spot.
At idle,just spray and listen for the RPM surge.
The in-rush of carb clearer will increase the RPM on the motor.
Record the problem spot(s) and address it later.
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EGR carbon built up require 2+ hours to clean from start to finish.
You will need a new EGR base gasket before your start.
Locate and remove the EGR valve after the vehicle is cool down.
Carefully record the connector and vacuum line (for older vehicle) location by drawing an easily to follow diagram.
Remove the EGR valve.
Inspect the location of the carbon built-up inside the valve and the EGR passage tube.
SOAK these areas with WD-40 spary.
You will need a small screwdriver,cloth hanger and lot of newspaper and time to get this cleaning done right.
RE-SOAK the carbon and let it sit for over-night will also help.
One the last round,pass a shop vacuum of the EGR valve and the passage pipe.
Install the new EGR gasket and connectors.
Allow the vehicle to warm up outdoor to burn up any remaining WD-40.
Take it for a test drive.
Please rate my answer if it's useful to you.
Cheers,
Mustgo
SOURCE: When at idle the rpm varies between 500-800 (and
The vacuum hose is your likely culprit. Other possibilities are a leaking EGR valve, air filter clogged, low cylinder compression, fuel filter or fuel injection malfunction. Hope this helps.
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