Question about 1995 Nissan Maxima
I have a nissan maxima 95 mdel,it stalls some time when i slows down,sometime at idle when this happens it will be difficult to start the engine again,i changed fuel pump,fuel filer yet problem is not soleved
I just bought a 1996 Maxima with 115K miles on it. The car started experiencing problems after I bought it and I thought I was stuck with a lemon. However, I am lucky enough to have a good friend who happens to be a mechanic. The car would stall at times at a red light and it wouldn't always start up right away. It would also stall in park. I could prevent it by feeding it more gas. The car also had some problems on the freeway, it would have a jerky motion once in a while. I also smelled it running rich when it was jerky and stalling. I thought I got a lemon and everywhere I read on the internet about it, it said idle air control valve. My friend took a look at it, told me the IACV was just replaced and after some hours luckily found the problem. The electrical connection to the air mass flow meter was bad. He found if you jiggled it the engine would stall. He said the connection, which was a crimp, wasn't doing its job, and he decided to solder it. Ever since then, the car has run like new!!!!
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
My 1995 Maxima does the same thing everybody discribed: stall at low speed or at stop or traffic light, rough start... The car is running normally then the RPM drops, goes up, drops... when I push the accelerator, the car don't accelerate. 50% of the time, it's stall. Then I swear a lot ...
So, I just changed my fuel filter, but I won't go for a new fuel pomp if it didn't work for the others.
Please help me!!
Posted on Aug 03, 2008
For those of u who are stalling at lights and have a bit of rough running at slow speeds I would change the (Idle Air Control Valve).Slow engine speed,stalling,and rough running were the simptoms that I had.
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
I have the same problem did anyone figure out what it is its so anoying
Posted on Aug 06, 2008
Had the same problem! After changing a lot of things that didn't work, the diagnostic code indicated a faulty MAF sensor. Used MAF spray (CRC) from NAPA, but it didn't work. Bought a 'new" MAF on Ebay ($100), didn't work. Ordered from another ebay supplier, same thing. Dealer wanted $575, my auto part store could get me a BOSCH replacement for $360. Met a Nissan mechanic who sold me a used one for $50. This put an end to 3 months of stalling and stumbling!!!!!
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
I have a 1987 Nissan Maxima SE. There was a recall on
this model for a fuel injector harness problem.
The harness was replaced at no expense.
I've heard this is a problem in this model and later versions and it seems all the symptoms described above apply.
Posted on Sep 02, 2011
My 99 Maxima not only stalls in idle or when I slow down and apply brakes, but it also tends to stall or pulls back while I'm driving at over 70 mph. It is definitely an electrical or electronic fault because it is intermittent, comes suddenly and disappears for hours or days sometimes. The Nissan Dealer has no clue, they gave me an estimate of $8000 (the car is worth less than 1/4 of that amount) which includes almost replacing everything but the ECU, and they didn't give any guarantees that my problem would be solved!!!!
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
Hi all i got nissan maxima 1995 and has the same problem..i figuried it out last week. its a battery problem. i've also noticied that when the car is in P and when i close the windows it stalls, the engine goes off. i tried it couple of times. i put my car in P, then i tried closing my window. when i close it the car tried to shake and when i remove its fine. i tried couple of times. the result is same. so ppl its a battery problem. have your battery replaced..
Posted on Aug 16, 2010
I had the same problem with my 95 maxima. I took it to a mechanic and he did an induction cleaning (I think that's what he called it - said something about the throttle body being really dirty or something like that) and also replaced the mass air flow. I just got it back yesterday and it works mostly all right. There is still a slight shudder when I am at a stop, though, similar to how it was right before I replaced the alternator last year. So, maybe you all can look into that sort of problem if you are having the same problems I was having (while driving, theh RPMs would randomly drop and jump, and the car would shut off and be difficult to start again for about 5 minutes).
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Assuming that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it looks like the torque converter lock-up system doesn't release as fast as it should, so if you brake hard, the converter is still locked up and your wheel brakes stall your engine (just like pressing ******* the brakes with the clutch pedal released on a manual transmission vehicle). Normally, when you brake hard, the lock-up should release and prevent the stall from happening. Might be a bad torque converter, or a bad lock up solenoid in the transmission... Before jumping to anything else, i'd try checking the fluid level in the transmission and an oil/filter change in the transmission. Lots of times one or the other can cure the problem.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
SOURCE: fuel problem
I had the same problem with my 99 Subaru Forester and it was caused by oil leaking and getting into the spark plugs. We only needed to remove & clean one of the plugs and then we were running smoothly again. Very well could not be what your problem is but it's worth a shot mentioning.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Could be battery, starter or coolant sensor.
It is hard to understand / get across engine noises with words so difficult to diagnose over the net but try to push start the car and let me know if it starts ok with a push. Also, maybe try a jump start, preferably using a circuit protector if you have one.
Let me know results of the above.
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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