Top 20 2006 Isuzu Ascender Questions & Answers

lost the manual.buy one and not get stranded for simple things or where is fuse Xits in the glove box.newhttp://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=AIM&Make=AIM&Model=ASCE&Year=2006&Category=2&Keyword=&Module=&selected%5Fmedia=used cheaper on feabay.

Replace the whole thing, make sure to tell the autoparts store which one you have, manual climate control or automatic. If I were you, I'd also replace the pigtail, those seem to melt often.

the hazard switch is bad. or do like we do, exercise it like 5 to 10 times and bingo it now works (if luck of the Irish) they can stick and if got kids that play, 10x this.

x2 , fuses, fuses are first. always with electrics. right? sure. 2nd step is scan the PCM, oops you didnt. 2006 Isuzu Ascender here ill RTM , for you,,, online at mitchells. usa cars, only. so...... ok ready? there are 5 head lamp fuses and 2 HL relays. fact. 3 fuse just for Low beams seen here. if both fuse below are 0v, both end,s that means Relay 46 is bad or not energized by the BCM and if the coil is hot, (left side 46) then the relay is bad if the coil is not hot, the BCM is malf'ing(lots of ways,ask) we scan it. if the BCM is not closing relay 46. easy huH? get B0951? dtc? B2575? do you have DRL lighting (canada does, i cant guess) we dont. fuse and 46 this is the input to BCM, if Headlamp glows below. ? then the PCM say you turn them on, if not , bad deal, ask. and last is pin 5 hot? hot means 12vd if not the bcm is bad, if above works. easy no?

The oil light is not an indication of oil level; rather it is an indication of oil pressure. If the oil pressure is low enough to light the oil light, you should be hearing some rattling in the engine. Otherwise, it is possible that the oil pressure sending unit is defective. You are lucky if that is the case, because some vehicles are wired that if the oil pressure sensor indicates low pressure, the engine will shut down to protect itself. You should have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge ASAP and take whatever corrective measures are necessary.

Hopefully not low on oil...(a must recheck oil level) with this indication...also look for an oil leak under your Isuzu. Could just mean that the "change oil soon" indicator has not been re-set...If you had the oil changed professionally, they should re-inspect this for you ASAP...Sounds like you take car of your car...don't let this go without a full inspection for oil level, and any leaks...Hope this helps.

The light is activated by an an oil pressure switch. With the engine not running there is no pressure so it lights up. When the oil recirculates, the pressure increase and the light goes out. Locate yours and change it, they are fairly inexpensive. If it stays lit after a change it may indicate something more serious.

check the sending unit for the oil light at the engine block Mike

why not read on alldata.com, its all there, remove a screw?

1. Block the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.
2. Remove the rubber ash tray inserts and rubber mat from the console.
3. Remove the floor shift control knob. Refer to Floor Shift Control Knob Replacement.
4. Remove the center console shift lever bezel, Buick only. Refer to Console Shift Lever Bezel Replacement (Refer To List 1).
5. Remove the console storage compartment. Refer to Front Floor Console Compartment Replacement.
6. Remove the center console retaining screws.
7. Adjust the parking brake to the full-up, or fully engaged position.
8. Release the 2 forward trim extensions ears attached to the lower instrument panel (I/P), Buick only.
9. Slide the console rearward and raise the rear of the console in order to expose the electrical connectors.
10. Disconnect the electrical connectors, as necessary.
11. Adjust the parking brake to approximately the halfway position.
12. Remove the center console from the vehicle.
13. If replacing the floor console base, remove the following and retain for transfer:
    • 13.1. Remove the HVAC control module (if equipped).
    • 13.2. Remove the armrest.
    • 13.3. Remove the HVAC module and duct assembly.
    • 13.4. Remove the cupholder.
    • 13.5. Remove the HVAC upper duct.

or read the FSM (buy one) factory service manual, its all there every step and photos too, (all cars. are like that) or http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html log in, and see that. and more.

it unbolts from clamps and of cable connections ,like all cables do. the install it. if this is your first cable, ever. use, youtube and see 100s doing them on all cars.

the oil change light system needs to be reset, check the owners manual on how to reset the oil change light.... -

Dismantling and mantling.

1. Remove the I/P accessory trim plate. Refer to Instrument Panel Accessory Trim Plate Replacement (Refer To List 1) or Instrument Panel Cluster Trim Plate Bezel Replacement (Refer To List 2).
2. Remove the HVAC control module screws.
3. Depress the HVAC control module tabs (3) and remove the HVAC control module (2) from the I/P (4).
4. Disconnect the electrical connectors (1) from the HVAC control module (2).

fix the module..... what ever. and put it back then see the last step. Refer to Control Module References for programming and setup information. then states If the HVAC control module is replaced, an automatic re-calibration of all the actuators will occur. No additional procedures are necessary.

You have a leaking heater core.

Recall for this, it's just your low beam relay under the hood.

I think that every wheel have the traction sensor so, either one of them is bad or all of them are. Check the front wheel fender and might sure that there is no openings specially close to the fuse box. If the problem persist just take it to your local Isuzu dealer. Good Luck!

check for belt tightness it sounds like the belt is slipping or the idle rpm is too low (near 500) to keep the alternator suppying enough power to run the car(or it is too small amperage alternator for the car anyway..) get tested for free at autozone or parts store..

open the panel and replace it

The only way to tell for sure is to remove the filter and blow through it. If there's little resistance, the filter is still okay and does not need to be replaced. But if there's more than minimal resistance, the filter is dirty and should be replaced. CAUTION: Gasoline is poisonous, does not taste very good and may burn sensitive lips. So don't hold the filter to your mouth to blow through it. Instead, attach a short piece of clean rubber hose to the filter and then blow through the hose to test the filter

If you switch on the AC and the compressor doesn't run, it is a good possibility that the drive pulley is faulty. It's electrically activated - it just spins with the accessory belt when the compressor is off, but when the A/C tells it it needs to run the pulley gets power. If it doesn't get juice to the pulley then it's the a/c switch itself. There is one wire that goes to the pulley (power) and one wire generally not seen (on the back side) that supplies the ground. The voltage to energize the drive pulley may be able to be tested without dissassembling anything. If you have a DVM (volt meter) you can connect it up to the power wire on the face of the pulley and connect the other lead to ground. Make sure no one is around to start the car. Turn A/C to on. Key to on (like when it's running and all lights etc will work, but don't start it). check if you have any voltage at the drive pulley wire on your DVM. Good luck

low Freon and or compressor switch