1998 Ford Contour - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the temp gauge works from a sender unit and not a sensor . It is located in the head near the thermostat housing and is the one with one wire to it.

trans pan gasket is a possibility they can dry out and crack outward under pressure

CHECK VOLTAGE AT BATTERY IT MUST BE OVER 13.5VOLTS.IF NOT CHECK AT THE ALERNATOR POSSIBLE REGULATOR FAULTY.LET ME KNOW

could possibly be . First have the CPU reset as the program may be corrupted from the battery change out. At the same time see if there are any fault codes concerning the TCM or OD servo/ solenoid

All CD4E's used in the Contour have 3 wires. If it is a manual it has 2-wires. Do you know where they got the transmission from?

Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging fully. Check the master and slave cylinders and the hose for leaks, and make sure you have proper fluid level in the reservoir. If there are no leaks, then try bleeding the system.

Check fuse numbers 23 and 37 on the fuse panel under the dash.

There are small plastic catches that hold the relays into the sockets. By using a small screwdriver (or maybe two), you should be able to pry these latches open and pull the relay out.

One under the dash to the left of the steering column, another under the hood on the driver's side, behind the battery. They both should have black plastic covers on them. Snap off the covers and you will see the fuses.

I'm assuming you have an automatic transmission. It sounds like there is an internal fault in the transmission itself. You'll have to take out the trans and take it to a shop to have it repaired, unless you're experienced on this kind of work and have the special tools and equipment required.

Check fuse numbers 23 and 33 on the fuse panel under the dash, and number 12 on the panel under the hood.

Check fuse numbers 23 and 33 under the dash, and number 12 under the hood. If those are okay, then check the turn signal switch on the steering column. Remove the shroud from the column and look closely at the switch assembly, making sure there are no broken pieces of plastic, or loose connections. Also, the turn signal relay/flasher unit is attached to the bottom of the switch - it's a small, black box that plugs on to the switch assembly. Check it out, and replace it if it's bad.

This code is "Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input." It is caused by a fault in the Transmission Range Sensor switch, located on top of the transmission, between the engine and the battery. (Many auto parts stores list it as the "Neutral Safety Switch." While it does perform this function, it does more than that!) If it is defective, it can cause a number of problems, including erratic down-shifting out of, and then back in to, overdrive. To change the switch, follow see the drawing below. Put the shifter in neutral, then disconnect and remove the battery. (You may also find it easier if you remove the battery tray.) Remove the rubber boot between the air intake box and the throttle body. Disconnect the wiring harness from the switch (1), remove the two 8mm bolts that hold it in (2), then pull the switch straight up and out. Don't twist it back and forth! Take note of how it engages the shaft inside the transmission. Put the new switch in, leaving the bolts loose. Make sure the two lines on the switch line up with each other. (The arrow on the switch body that points to the "D" is the "Drive" position. The smaller line about 80 degrees to the left of the "D" position is the one you need to line up with. This sets it to the neutral position.) Tighten the bolts, and put everything back together. Check to make sure the engine will start only in the "Park" or Neutral" positions, and that the backup lights come on only in "Reverse". Hopefully, this will fix your problem.

What year is the car? Is it automatic or manual transmission? What engine do you have, the 2.0 4-cylinder or the 2.5 liter V6?

STOP! DO NOT DRIVE OR RUN THE CAR! Have it towed to your favorite shop and let them diagnose the problem. You could have a bad rod or main bearing, or another major problem that could destroy your engine if you continue to run it. At the very least, the engine will need to be overhauled. Is it worth it? That is something you will need to decide for yourself.

There is a plastic gear in the drive train that is well known for stripping. A replacement gear is available from http://www.sunroofgears.com/ It comes complete with instructions and is quite easy to do. This will fix the problem, and the new gear will probably outlast the rest of the car!

See if the steering wheel is locked. If so wiggle wheel while jiggling key.

Ford moved the "vin tag" around a lot in the 50-60s from door posts, door edge and glove box doors. I'm am not sure exactly when but by the late 50' and 60's ford also stamped the vin number on the frame. They were located on the passenger side about mid engine on the top of the frame rail and also on top of the frame on the same side underneath the cab. This was the secret vin that police and insurance companies looked for on stolen cars as they were not listed in the owners manual or common repair manuals. The one under the cab can be seen with a mirror but is not where it could be filled off or rest amped without removing the cab from the frame. I have restored a 58, 61,65 and 66 ford pickups and all of them had the vin on the frames. I have run across lots of trucks where they simply moves the glove box door or swapped doors to change the vin on a Ford truck or moved the metal I'd tag but it is seldom they remember the frame stamping of the vin. They also all had a star at the beginning and end of the stamping.

the pump should come on first for a few sec, there is a fuelpump relay

wats cng?