During a hauling in operation the windlass started to making a strong noise and the gipsy stopped turning. I checked the clutch but it was OKAY. I have a little video where you can hear the noise. If you have an email address I will be glad to forward it to you. Thank you. Carlos

Question edited for clarity (the maker) spelling and English.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Honda VF 750 category.

If it is making the noise at lights and not when running down the road, it is likely to be something to do with the clutch, or clutch thrust bearing. So it makes a noise when the clutch lever is pulled in?

These machines do make a noise during start-up, but if it stops after the sewing machine has gone through the set-up, it is probably okay. However, if the noise continues, it should probably be taken for a check-up. Even so, if you are worried, a check-up may still be helpful.

If the engine is not reaching optimum operating temperature it will indeed give you a "check engine light",the code will lean you in that direction as well.The noise your hearing more than likely is coming from the "clutch fan",they are very common on the TrailBlazers to make noise and fail.The oil light... you certainly need to have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gage.

Hi, I'm looking to purchase a used Vetus Alexander III windless for parts. Do you have any on hand or k ow where I can locate one? Thanks you Cpt. Rick

i anwered every geo post back to here, and i stop. at jan 1

your issues is a hands no deal, no net bunny can diagnose noise.
if you google finding car noises, you can read for a week.
vast numbers of tests, and inspections, etc.
noise is the most hard of all.
now a bad clutch
if you depress the clutch, just to take out the slack. running
and it makes noise this is the end of life sound for
your throw out bearing, or there is junk (road kill) in the linkage
undercar, all mech know what do, first look then fell the throwout.
ive even removed the linkage, and flexed the bell arm and can
fell the bearing beating my hand harshly, this is the acid test.

Check the brushes and if they are short just replace them.
This will solve the problem.
There is thermal cut out which will protect the winding if its hot and will stop windlass and after cooling down it can run again.

THe problem can only really be with the clutch master cylinder. What you describe sounds like the master cylinder is not relieving pressure and this is building up in the salve cylinder, applying pressure to the pressure place and causing the clutch to slip. Can you make the problem go away even temporarily, if you open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder? You say that the free play is correct, but is the master cylinder returning fully to its released position?

HI. The issue here will be with the actual motor coupler. It is damaged at this time. The clutch and coupler should be replaced asap.The coupler is responsible for transferring the rotative torque to the actual transmission(direct drive assembly). The clutch is a regulator. Once these components are replaced, the unit will operate properly.

Now. The actual parts cost will be $50.00. This includes the clutch kit, and coupler, as well. Total repair cost, if service is requested by a tech, will be $150.00, roughly.

Of course, first check the voltage at the connections to the windlass. Have someone operate the switch while you measure with a volt meter. If no voltage check breakers, or fuses. Heavy current devices like a windlass will often require fuses near where they connect to battery power.


A windlass requires a LOT of current to run. Not just voltage. Trace the wires from the battery connection all the way to the windlass. If possible, loosen any connections (ex; a lug with a nut or bolt) and clean with a wire brush then reconnect. Be sure to disconnect the battery while cleaning. Many times wires will corrode past the insulation. Especially if they were not tinned wire to begin with (tinned wire has a silver shine, regular copper has a copper color and typically turns dark or even black when corroded).

Since a windlass requires a lot of current, often there may be a relay near the windlass that might go bad. Listen to see if this is activating while someone operates the switch.

ppr78, couple of things you want to check. The bottom panel on these GE's are pretty flimsy. I have run into a couple where during agitation the bottom of the motor housing would rub against the bottom panel making a terrible noise. You need to remove the front panel by pusing on the clips on the left and right side just under the top. The front panel will pull out. During agitation, take your foot and push down on the bottom panel and see if the screech goes away. I have also found the suspension rod support sockets at the top dry out and make a screeching noise. You also want to check your belt and pully and see if the noise is from there. Check these things first...Catriver..post back.